Brake Pad Rattle
- Burning_Beard
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- Location: Ohio
Brake Pad Rattle
I've been thru 2 rotors, 2 reman calipers, and 3 sets of pads trying to fix this issue. The outer pad is loose and my car sounds like a trailer going over bumps.
I've used that silicone gimmick to try to affix the pad better, no dice. My caliper pins are smooth and the caliper moves freely. There is no air in the system, unless the booster has failed after my bleeds.
I absolutely hate this caliper setup and the thought of putting this bastard into a cement wall flashed in my head for a second after the 5th wasted weekend of this nonsense.
I ask,
1. Should the outer pad always be in contact with the rotor? I was thinking of using washers on the back side of the caliper bolt to try to tighter the outer side grip so the pad isn't loose.
2. Is there a bolt on upgrade to a newer, bigger, or more reliable set of calipers withought swapping out the knuckle?
3. Should I hammer those tabs down on the pads? I seems so "I shouldn't have to take a hammer to these pads to make them fit, this is 1989 and we've been to outer space" silly.
I've used that silicone gimmick to try to affix the pad better, no dice. My caliper pins are smooth and the caliper moves freely. There is no air in the system, unless the booster has failed after my bleeds.
I absolutely hate this caliper setup and the thought of putting this bastard into a cement wall flashed in my head for a second after the 5th wasted weekend of this nonsense.
I ask,
1. Should the outer pad always be in contact with the rotor? I was thinking of using washers on the back side of the caliper bolt to try to tighter the outer side grip so the pad isn't loose.
2. Is there a bolt on upgrade to a newer, bigger, or more reliable set of calipers withought swapping out the knuckle?
3. Should I hammer those tabs down on the pads? I seems so "I shouldn't have to take a hammer to these pads to make them fit, this is 1989 and we've been to outer space" silly.
1989 Beretta GTU 2.8 w/77k, auto.
- Money pit Beretta
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- Location: Kansas
Re: Brake Pad Rattle
Are you sure you have the right pads? Never heard of a problem like this. Can you give us the brand and number of these pads?
keep'em flying!
- 3X00-Modified
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- Location: Brooklyn CT
Re: Brake Pad Rattle
Check the straightness of your rotor... If that wobbles at ALL during rotation it will push the pads further open or move the caliper in a position you don't want it in.
Thing's that can cause the rotor to wobble are bad wheel bearings or something a miss on the hub.
Thing's that can cause the rotor to wobble are bad wheel bearings or something a miss on the hub.
- Burning_Beard
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Re: Brake Pad Rattle
I want to specify this is only the drivers side pad.Money pit Beretta wrote:Are you sure you have the right pads? Never heard of a problem like this. Can you give us the brand and number of these pads?
Pads that it first started with, from napa, no idea but theyve been on for around 3 years, with acdelco reman calipers. Inner pad was barely worn but outer was worn when replacing.
Replaced with Duralast MKD289 pads and Duralast 5558 rotor, got about 4 days before it started again.
Got loaded calipers from rockauto, AUTOSPECIALTY / KELSEY-HAYES Part # 4082080 for the left, just to see if I was missing any hardware. No outer pad clips, but I put it on anyway and got no relief.
1989 Beretta GTU 2.8 w/77k, auto.
Re: Brake Pad Rattle
That is what you should do.Burning_Beard wrote: 3. Should I bend (ever so slightly) those tabs down on the pads? This is 1989 and we've been to outer space" silly.
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- Burning_Beard
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- Location: Ohio
Re: Brake Pad Rattle
It started to happen last year before I put it away. In April, I had OEM quality hubs put in, at a shockingly considerable freaking expense I may add. I had a vibration in that wheel between 55ish-70mph. I can now say that there is absolutely zero vibration at any speed while driving....but...3X00-Modified wrote:Check the straightness of your rotor... If that wobbles at ALL during rotation it will push the pads further open or move the caliper in a position you don't want it in.
Thing's that can cause the rotor to wobble are bad wheel bearings or something a miss on the hub.
When the pads are cold I'll get a "pulsing" squeak at low speed, around 5mph, like you would imagine a warped or off balance rotor would sound, wub, wub, wub, but a pad squeak on that wheel. Very light but noticeable.
Anyways, the pads started to get louder as the outer wore. I couldn't take it so here I am.
I'm probably going to try putting a washer between the caiper bolt and the knuckle to draw the outside of the caliper in a little to tighten it up.
1989 Beretta GTU 2.8 w/77k, auto.
- Burning_Beard
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Re: Brake Pad Rattle
Before installation? Put the tabs in a vise and crank on it? Better than hammering them while in, I guess.1988GTU wrote:That is what you should do.Burning_Beard wrote: 3. Should I bend (ever so slightly) those tabs down on the pads? This is 1989 and we've been to outer space" silly.
1989 Beretta GTU 2.8 w/77k, auto.
Re: Brake Pad Rattle
No, after its installed you coach those two tabs on the outer positioning of the caliper (non piston side) with a punch and ball peen.
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- Money pit Beretta
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- Location: Kansas
Re: Brake Pad Rattle
Almost sounds like you didn't use caliper sleeve grease. One side could be sticking and letting the rotor grab one side of the pad. You did say that the first set was worn on one side.
keep'em flying!
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Re: Brake Pad Rattle
Yep, that really is the official service procedure...1988GTU wrote:No, after its installed you coach those two tabs on the outer positioning of the caliper (non piston side) with a punch and ball peen.
Cliff Scott
Re: Brake Pad Rattle
FWIR, the aftermarket pads I bought last for that style caliper came with a chintzy piece of paper with instructions to "bend" the protruding tabs.
It only took the offshore suppliers 20+ years before they caught on to the GM service install procedure. Lol
It only took the offshore suppliers 20+ years before they caught on to the GM service install procedure. Lol
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