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@ ifixalot i cant measure the distance between the yokes because i dont have the proper length shaft yet .....the stock camaro shaft was 41 9/16 inches between center points of yokes and i think the shaft will need to be 2 inches longer to make up for the added length....not sure if this helps ....i will definitely check in with dennysdriveshafts too now that i have all the proper measurements. thanks guys!!!!

That is not how you measure a driveshaft.

U-joint to U-joint center line and U-joint size are the numbers they generally want.

Then you can use the corresponding yokes you want allowing for some play/in and out. at the transmission.

The diagram was pulled directly from driveshaftshops website ......i should probably tell them they've been doing it wrong this whole time......I dont know what to tell ya asylum...thats what they wanted in order to build a completely new driveshaft so thats what I gave them....

So you are depending on them to supply the output yoke for the trans?

I would think you would already have that.

Yes.......they provide everything. ....they dont want to mess with the old joints ......

OK just to clarify.

Whenever I have had to order a drive shaft, and it has been several times, I had in my hand the output yoke from the trans and the input yoke for the rear end, and the U-Joint sizes.

Simply put the car flat on the floor, on its own weight, (that is important), and measure the center to center of the U-Joints.

But if your application is more complicated then ,,,OK!

Yeah......it was under load or body weight. ...with the trailing arms level/flat.....and they do ask what kind of trans and rear diff are on either end.....ive never personally had a drive shaft made so im coulting on them to know what they are doing .....im gonna give them the info they want and hope for the best.........

Measuring the way he did is probably better since now DSS can spec a shaft to proper length at ride height and not have to wonder how far you had the output yolk in the trans when you measured it. As long as they know the transmission in use they will know exactly how much that yolk should stick out at ride height to allow the shaft to not be too long when the suspension is compressed or too short when it's extended.

mocking up the rear firewall

looks rad!

Still think it would have been bitchin to have a back seat, but lovin the work! Still watching with much enthusiasm

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If you wanted to have more of a "back seat" look - instead of just a 45* angle of sheet metal - you might look into a prefab metal trailer fender and plug in more sheet metal from there:

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Fenders ... 32-1R.html

Fairly cheap - and I think would require a lot less rolling/bending metal into a tub shape.

Or there are prefab wheel tubs out there - since you've got a hybrid car - might not work too well. Plus they are more expensive.

http://martzchassis.net/camaro/camaro-wheel-tub-sets/

I will definitely look into those trailer fenders maybe just to protect from rock throw on the inner wheel well.......i still have the "back seat" but with the cage I figured it would be pointless to put back there .....plus it was pretty chewed up from when I cut it out and had some rust spots too.......maybe I will take another look at it

Not sure how much room you will have - but you also incorporate some storage bins back there from a late 80's RX7:

Cliff8928 wrote:One of my coworkers order a driveshaft for his old Firebird from Denny's Driveshafts and was very satisfied with the price and quality.

I had a Denny's driveshaft until I broke it. Although I would guess it was probably hurt when I killed the rear end.

I got a new one from Driveshaft Specialists of Texas and actually liked them better. Faster turnaround, better price, and better u-joints than Denny's. I even got the pinion yoke from them. 1350 u-joints rule! http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/

Working with DSS would make a cringe a little...haha

Give DST a call, I'm sure it's worth the time to shop around a little.