Tylers (aka Slinkys) Build
Re:
To make this kit reliable i had to do the following,3X00-Modified wrote:You wise guy, I'm gonna mount them all crooked now! lol
Yes Craig what's visible is a housing and the spinning parts are enclosed with bearings, this is the first time I've had my hands on this type of setup as well.
-Find/buy faster/better bearings
-Fab better/lighter 10psi pulley
-Fab a better bearing housing
-Designed Peek spacers to stop massive heat transfer from heads--->S/C
-Designed End pulley bearing housing support to stop shaft flex
-Fab a better S/C main shaft (original snapped due to a 4" bolt used to hold pulley on+ no radii in any of the corners+poor material choice+no end shaft support)
-Fab better keys+key-ways with tighter tolerances
-Find/fab all intake tubing/couplers for the aftercooler
-modified differant trans bracket to fit my 4t60e
-And last but not least make everything fit and look good
Last edited by Slinky on Thu Apr 24, 2014 4:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1 Of 1 Street Legal Centri S/c Beretta's In Existance
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Re: Tylers (aka Slinkys) Build
So you replaced the pulley inside the blower?
2005 Chevrolet Corvette Z51
2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD
2014 Chevy SS
2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD
2014 Chevy SS
Re: Tylers (aka Slinkys) Build
No i returned a smaller serpentine pulley
1 Of 1 Street Legal Centri S/c Beretta's In Existance
- SuzukiGhostRider
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Re:
This was a common setup used by the "boostedbrothers" way back when the grandamgt forum was popping...I liked the innovation, but things could get a little crampy as you can see...one reason I moved my fan(s) to the front, not really the ideal setup, but it freed plenty room. In the very near future I plan to box in all the radiators...unfortunately the fan will still have its spot as a pusher...3X00-Modified wrote:You wise guy, I'm gonna mount them all crooked now! lol
Yes Craig what's visible is a housing and the spinning parts are enclosed with bearings, this is the first time I've had my hands on this type of setup as well.
Jon I say put stuff in crooked j/k...coll hope ur @ss is getting sleep...
Re: Re:
Nice...lots of work, looks good...not sure if you upgraded the camshaft (I know Jon was talking about the stock one...forgive me if I missed it) but how high do you plan on revving this thing?Slinky wrote:To make this kit reliable i had to do the following,3X00-Modified wrote:You wise guy, I'm gonna mount them all crooked now! lol
Yes Craig what's visible is a housing and the spinning parts are enclosed with bearings, this is the first time I've had my hands on this type of setup as well.
-Find/buy faster/better bearings
-Fab better/lighter 10psi pulley
-Fab a better bearing housing
-Designed Peek spacers to stop massive heat transfer from heads--->S/C
-Designed End pulley bearing housing support to stop shaft flex
-Fab a better S/C main shaft (original snapped due to a 4" bolt used to hold pulley on+ no radii in any of the corners+poor material choice+no end shaft support)
-Fab better keys+key-ways with tighter tolerances
-Find/fab all intake tubing/couplers for the aftercooler
-modified differant trans bracket to fit my 4t60e
-And last but not least make everything fit and look good
Re: Tylers (aka Slinkys) Build
SuzukiGhostRider wrote:Very clever and unique engineering Tyler. Props. Looking GREAT man!
Thanx, i plan on getting my mechanical engineering degree once my machinist apprenticeship is done, it intrigues me..
Yes its a WOT-TECH S/c cam, and even with the engine being forged + balanced rotating assembly since its and auto i believe Jon will set the shifts just below 7knocutt wrote:Nice...lots of work, looks good...not sure if you upgraded the camshaft (I know Jon was talking about the stock one...forgive me if I missed it) but how high do you plan on revving this thing?Slinky wrote:To make this kit reliable i had to do the following,3X00-Modified wrote:You wise guy, I'm gonna mount them all crooked now! lol
Yes Craig what's visible is a housing and the spinning parts are enclosed with bearings, this is the first time I've had my hands on this type of setup as well.
-Find/buy faster/better bearings
-Fab better/lighter 10psi pulley
-Fab a better bearing housing
-Designed Peek spacers to stop massive heat transfer from heads--->S/C
-Designed End pulley bearing housing support to stop shaft flex
-Fab a better S/C main shaft (original snapped due to a 4" bolt used to hold pulley on+ no radii in any of the corners+poor material choice+no end shaft support)
-Fab better keys+key-ways with tighter tolerances
-Find/fab all intake tubing/couplers for the aftercooler
-modified differant trans bracket to fit my 4t60e
-And last but not least make everything fit and look good
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- 3X00-Modified
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Re: Tylers (aka Slinkys) Build
That is one limitation and the second is the efficiency of your SC... I don't think going over 6700 will benefit you but I'd have to see the compressor graph and know the gearing of that pulley setup to be sure.
Re: Tylers (aka Slinkys) Build
Cool beans!! I was asking because them things like to be wrung up high...I particularly like that they are relatively easy on the trans since they come on later as a function of rpm. Looks promising guysSlinky wrote:Yes its a WOT-TECH S/c cam, and even with the engine being forged + balanced rotating assembly since its and auto i believe Jon will set the shifts just below 7k
Re: Tylers (aka Slinkys) Build
Very true...better to get more out of it from other complimentary mods...3X00-Modified wrote:That is one limitation and the second is the efficiency of your SC... I don't think going over 6700 will benefit you but I'd have to see the compressor graph and know the gearing of that pulley setup to be sure.
Re: Tylers (aka Slinkys) Build
Bingo3X00-Modified wrote:That is one limitation and the second is the efficiency of your SC... I don't think going over 6700 will benefit you but I'd have to see the compressor graph and know the gearing of that pulley setup to be sure.
1 Of 1 Street Legal Centri S/c Beretta's In Existance
Re: Tylers (aka Slinkys) Build
Relatively big compressor...looks ~55lb/min (max). Have you started the map? are you guys trying to get to the "meat" or it doesn't matter much?Slinky wrote:Bingo3X00-Modified wrote:That is one limitation and the second is the efficiency of your SC... I don't think going over 6700 will benefit you but I'd have to see the compressor graph and know the gearing of that pulley setup to be sure.
- 3X00-Modified
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Re: Tylers (aka Slinkys) Build
We had a calibration going for a while but with the cam change I need to somewhat start over again... what do you mean by get to the meat? You are obviously much better at reading a compressor map than I am... I also don't know what the pulley to crank ratio is as well as the pulley to compressor ratio so I can't even tell you what RPM it would be spinning at.nocutt wrote: Relatively big compressor...looks ~55lb/min (max). Have you started the map? are you guys trying to get to the "meat" or it doesn't matter much?
Tyler did a lot of the work to figure out what his peak PSI would be at a specific RPM as well as what pulley to run, I was working with him on doing the calibration as well as now just assembling his engine. I wish I was able to math out what the best pulley would be for his engine and not just be creating hot air, but even that stuff is still black magic to me... I have a stock turbo on my legacy and I know many say they start to loose efficiency at around 18-19 psi so mine is set for 19 peak.... I have yet to get into the whole matching turbo's/SC's to displacement and such.
This was info that Ben gave us regarding that map and his dyno program
I can measure the pulley's tonight to see what the ratio is.12 psi on a 1.9:1 belt ratio. Im using dynomation because it has your supercharger in it already. If I tell it the belt ratio is 2:1, overspeed is in the caution. Oh and internal ratio is set at 3.45. I don't know if its default is accurate so you might want to see what you can find out on there. Obviously you can keep spinning it faster and increasing boost but the software showed me 12 psi at 1.9 before the gains stopped/made damn little difference.
2.4 belt ratio is the most it went before going in the red, with the psi being upped to 17 before it peaked out. 80% intercooler with 0 psi drop was used for all the numbers, but that should only affect the output number, not where the gains cease from being told to make more psi without changing the belt ratio. Its the boost limit that I changed to get these numbers, so it makes sense to do nothing once the limit is higher than actual. I didn't use your modifications specifically, just a stock 3500. Should give you a good idea once you measure the crank pulley to see what size SC pulley to get.
Ben Phelps
WOT-Tech
- 3X00-Modified
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Re: Tylers (aka Slinkys) Build
The Blower pulley RPM is crux...3X00-Modified wrote:We had a calibration going for a while but with the cam change I need to somewhat start over again... what do you mean by get to the meat? You are obviously much better at reading a compressor map than I am... I also don't know what the pulley to crank ratio is as well as the pulley to compressor ratio so I can't even tell you what RPM it would be spinning at.nocutt wrote: Relatively big compressor...looks ~55lb/min (max). Have you started the map? are you guys trying to get to the "meat" or it doesn't matter much?
Tyler did a lot of the work to figure out what his peak PSI would be at a specific RPM as well as what pulley to run, I was working with him on doing the calibration as well as now just assembling his engine. I wish I was able to math out what the best pulley would be for his engine and not just be creating hot air, but even that stuff is still black magic to me... I have a stock turbo on my legacy and I know many say they start to loose efficiency at around 18-19 psi so mine is set for 19 peak.... I have yet to get into the whole matching turbo's/SC's to displacement and such.
This was info that Ben gave us regarding that map and his dyno program
I can measure the pulley's tonight to see what the ratio is.12 psi on a 1.9:1 belt ratio. Im using dynomation because it has your supercharger in it already. If I tell it the belt ratio is 2:1, overspeed is in the caution. Oh and internal ratio is set at 3.45. I don't know if its default is accurate so you might want to see what you can find out on there. Obviously you can keep spinning it faster and increasing boost but the software showed me 12 psi at 1.9 before the gains stopped/made damn little difference.
2.4 belt ratio is the most it went before going in the red, with the psi being upped to 17 before it peaked out. 80% intercooler with 0 psi drop was used for all the numbers, but that should only affect the output number, not where the gains cease from being told to make more psi without changing the belt ratio. Its the boost limit that I changed to get these numbers, so it makes sense to do nothing once the limit is higher than actual. I didn't use your modifications specifically, just a stock 3500. Should give you a good idea once you measure the crank pulley to see what size SC pulley to get.
Ben Phelps
WOT-Tech
I am sure you know the crank pulley diameter, drive pulley diameter as well, max RPM (Engine)...and the step up...Ben suggested the internal step-up ratio is 3.45 (you probably can find this on Vortech's website...probably lol)...this info should give you a ballpark. The rest is ezbrezzy as it is similar to reading a turbo compressor map...
EDIT: Sorry you seem to have figured it out