1992 Quasar Beretta GTZ - Updated.

[SuzukiGhostRider]

So, if it doesn't bother you guys too much in this thread about my car, anyone got any ideas about MY issue and not wheels?

[Chad91GTZ]

Junk it.

[DTMAce]

What issue? The brakes? You already have my thoughts on that one.

[DTMAce]

Or if you don't put your foot on the brake when you start your car, you'll hear it within 2-5 seconds of starting the car.

Actually I checked this today. In park, started engine, waited, nothing happened. Tapped the brake long enough to shift to neutral, still nothing. Put it in gear and after I got moving it finally tested. And promptly threw a light. I think the vehicle has to be in gear before it can test.

Anyway with this hotter weather my charging system has barely been above peak battery voltage (right at or just below half). If I start it cold, it doesn't do it then or when the charge level is above half. Guess I need to tear through the wiring later this week. Must have a bad connection or losing the alternator again. This will be the 4th to die since I owned the car. I'm sorely tempted to make a custom mount (out of some decent non-conductive material) and relocate the rectifier circuit outside of the alternator to someplace on the firewall or something. Maybe it would help. I have the Alt Cooler, but even with that I think it wouldn't be perfect.

Most electronic circuits are not able to operate at spec above 150F. And I know the alt gets hotter than that, especially in the weather we have had lately.

[SuzukiGhostRider]

Seriously , Chad, enough is enough. If you guys want to have pages of discussion on something else, great. Start a thread. Getting more than a little annoyed at the off topic banter and pages of crap I could care less about that relates in no way to my car or this thread. Enough with the dumb waterpump jokes and everything else.

[Chad91GTZ]

lol, call the wambulance.

Anyway, which problem are you still having? Figured you'd like the constant exposure your thread gets, off topic or not.

[3X00-Modified]

Chad, I have to be fair here so ease up and posting in this thread if your only picking fun at him. Other people have noticed the slight turn toward being a bit more harsh. It's hard for some users to notice sarcasm, especially if they don't know you personally.

Relevant topic info, your ABS system does not do a self check until your vehicle is in motion, approx 2-5mph. It needs to see feedback from the wheel sensors to do the rest of the system check. And 9 times out of ten if your abs light comes on right after you start to roll, then do a continuity check on all the wires going to the wheel sensors. I will guarantee on is cut somewhere or a sensor is bad.

[Chad91GTZ]

You mean I'm being harsh, or the board is? Crap sorry. :l. Just like to give Mike a hard time.

Anyway, I agree with John, but every time I've had an ABS light its just been brake dust on the sensor. Damn metallic brakes.

[Money pit Beretta]

Any plans to change that intake tube SGR? Really I would like to know and get back on topic.

[ErichZ26]

I want magnesium wheels.

FTMFW.

Chad you have a feasible idea but one problem.... Stock GTZ rims have a 54mm hub bore, and the N-hubs are like 60 or so mm. You would have to bore the back of the GTZ wheels to make them work, then do it to all four just so you can rotate the tires when the time comes. But in doing that, now you wont be able to use the stock center caps unless you have new custom ones made. If you stick an N-hub in the back of a GTZ wheel with no studs on it, you will see how much bigger the hug bore is. Its easier, and cheaper, to just change the rims out with universal bolt wheels when doing the N-brakes. Been there, done that, i wanted to put my GTZ rims back on, but wasnt gonna spend my life fortune trying to make it work.

57.1mm VS 70.3mm

The magnesium wheels are low weight at 17lbs for front and 19.5 rear. The similar design polished 2001 thin spoke is 16lb front and 19lb rear which are not as rare.

[DTMAce]

Go titanium! LMAO

Sorry for the hijack SGR....

[90GTZHO]

Mike, im gonna post this hear to try and get things back on topic.

Ive heard/read that the early GM abs systems have had thier share of problems based on the fact of its a very early design and still working the bugs out. My dads 92 Euro Lumina does the same after applying the ebrake and releasing it. Now, i talked to my sister who has owned two 92 Lumina Euros (one 3.1 and one 3.4) and she has receipts from both vehilcals for the same problem. I cant find much of anything else on the net about it but it appears to be a bad ebrake switch. On her two former cars, both had the ebrake switch replaced and it fixed the problem.

On our cars, im still wondering if there is an abs sensor feed off that switch downstream that is triggering the light.

[3X00-Modified]

I'm sure he has it but I'll post up a wiring diagram for the ABS system from Alldata

[SuzukiGhostRider]

I appreciate the file Jon. Thanks. I did have access to one, but it's the thought that counts.

Haven't looked into this too much further. Hasn't happened again for quite some time. I was fighting a "speedy problem" on the old girl for a bit. That being it started eating belts. Went through three new ones in short order. I narrowed it to a tensioner issue and think I have it resolved now. Still, gonna need to order a new one just in case.

Maybe show'n'shine on her tomorrow.

I'll tell you one thing. No two clutches are the same, that's for damn sure,and if you want a reminder, drive one for a few days and then hop in the other,lol.

I also noticed a HUGE braking power difference between the SCX and GTZ. The SCX is killing the GTZ. SCX has monster braking power and noticeable difference with it's bigger front rotors.

[Mikey Morris]

Try cleaning all the abs sensors and swapping to a good module off another car with no issues.

Looks good!