1996 Mr.Pink

[3X00-Modified]

Well its finally running again... New Koni shocks in the rear that fit it now... The last set of Cougar shocks they had in stock now that they are discontinued... They fit way easier than I thought they would have, The brackets I bought for the base were already the right bolt size I just needed to narrow up the collar in the bushing on the base of the shock. Done in 2 min with my angle grinder, upper mount needed no changes from what was originally done to make them fit. The car is friken STIFF if you set them all to max the car feels like its solid suspension lol. Not so bad when on soft though but still rides great.

I forgot how firm this thing shifts too, and I am on the hunt again for whatever is causing my front end clunk... Its either swaybar bushings somehow, OR its ball joint on that side, no idea which yet.

So after doing all the work I did I started it up in the garage and immediately found a "leak" It appeared to be oil but I couldn't quite determine from where. thought I found the spot which would make it the timing cover leaking. Pulled the tensioner off and tried to tighten the bolts again barely got them to move but it appeared the leak went away. So I drove it to Foster, the inlaws, then back home. Over night it left a hefty puddle in the driveway. That's when I noticed the oil had a blueish glare to it, NOT motor oil as well as when I was moving it in the driveway the PS pump started to whine quite a bit. Checked reservoir and it was full of bubbles meaning the fluid went low. Started looking around and could see it was coming from the base of the PS pump. I had rebuilt it this year so the first thing I thought was I screwed up. After removing it I realized the tank was leaking in the SAME spot as the one that was on there last year. Long story short, I pulled the tank from the Red car and found a restrictor orifice that is supposed to be on the return nipple of the tank, or inline on the return line to lessen the pressure... I had removed all the PS lines last year and replaced the rubber with new stuff, I guess I missed this part because that would explain the busted tank last year with the same leak I had this year. Bought a new tank, installed that restrictor pill and all is good so far. No leaks under the tank anymore.

She is now my Daily driver till I get the Legacy Block back...

[woody90gtz]

Sounds like those Konis will be good for the road course. I'm hoping to use mine as a DD as quickly as this week.

[3X00-Modified]

Yeah I'd really love to hit the RC in Denver this year but I just couldn't foot the extra 100 after everything that just happened... I think its the quickest I've ever dropped $12,000 in my life.

I'll have to find something up here to test it out on... Maybe head over to Lime Rock sometime this year if possible.

[3X00-Modified]

OK, so I've been chasing this suspension (I think) clunk for ages now... had it on my red car and I also have it on my Pink car... No idea where the noise is coming from. Here are some conditions... Note the noise is always from the right front area, but is reverberated through the body because of where the subframes bolt, so you can feel it in the floor but it's definitely coming from the right.

Every once and a while if you are backing out of my driveway and turning to the right and the front end goes over the end of the driveway, about 1/2-1" drop to the road surface, you will hear a pop at times, Not always... After that happens if your driving and you are giving it moderate throttle and it shifts to second it will pop again... Now if you brake softly and slowly it will not pop the next time it shifts. BUT if you brake aggressively sometimes you can get it to pop during that which then it will once again pop upon shifting into second... Now remember my car shifts about as hard as someone smacking your ass with a paddle so I'm guessing that's why the shift is so well at bringing this problem out.

So here are the things I've attacked.... First thought the front horizontal bushing bolt was bad and allowing control arm movement, I pulled the bolt to find it slightly rusted, Got a new one and replaced it, Noise continues... Thought maybe the rear bushing was moving... Also checked bolt and tightened the crap out of it, Nothing shows any signs of slipping or moving anywhere. Rechecked and torqued all subframe bolts, which also don't show any signs of movement. Then I went after the sway bar bushings, bolts were loose and I was wondering if they were popping along the threads of the bolt from varying force... Tightened those like crazy and still no fix.

Last night I pulled it all apart and pulled the torque arm out... The inside of the collars were showing some very harsh marks of threads on one side and some small marks on the other side, so I thought HORRAY! I found it... so I tried to change out the bushings and what I had wasn't right, so I just went back together and put the bolts in with an impact to hopefully pinch those collars so tight they wouldn't move at all, but the noise persists...

Do you think it could still be the torque strut? The bolts are ever so slightly smaller than the collar so there is some movement there but I just have a hard time wrapping my mind around the fact that they can still slip in the bracket when its cranked down that tight. I was thinking of getting a new set of collars made up that fit the bushings and are also way tighter on the bolt threads to eliminate any free play...

I've also been contemplating ball joint, but I just cant fathom how that could be making a noise like that and not be throwing off my alignment or making the car pull funny when it moves.

Oh and my car failed miserably on the "5sec alignment" check machine when I had it emissions tested so I went home to measure it and the car has a whopping 1/16" toe out... WTF! I think their machine is a bit f-ed up... or it doesn't like 0* of camber with a 225 wide tire.

[themixer]

i had the exact noise in my 1997 cavalier. i changed strut mounts struts control arms all the bushings ball joints never found the noise, i was starting to think it was something in the steering rack.

[3X00-Modified]

For my situation though how would the steering rack be affected upon a hard shift? And that's completely isolated from the body by rubber bushings where the torque strut depending on which part is moving is directly tied into the subframe.

And of course since I did the Koni's the struts are different and the mounts are all new as well.

The only "old" part left is the Ball Joint which I did when I put the N-body brakes on... they weren't "cheap" ball joints either.

I still feel its the torque strut moving so I'm going to start with getting new sleeves made up that will hopefully hold tighter to the bolt... Next would be to find a shoulder bolt that has no threads where it's going through the sleeve to bring the clearance even closer.

[themixer]

i believe what made me think my cavalier had a rack problem is that it would pop if i did a really hard turn back and forth. along with a hard shift 4000+ rpm or brake hard. Backing out of the driveway it popped, or if you did a fast reverse to drive combo. I am very interested to hear what your problem is.

[3X00-Modified]

Oh don't worry I will post what I find for sure.

[Slinky]

Oh don't worry I will post what I find for sure.

I have the same damn problem!

When i turn the one direction leaving my house i hear a loud pop every time, since I've had it I've replaced pretty much every bushing/bolt/part in the front suspension as well as all the mounts and have never found out what it is..

[berettaboi]

you mentioned you cranked the control arm bolts tight, but is it possible there is still play? I have a fair amount of play with mine, i push and pull my tire and watch the control arm move about an 1/8" total back and forth... my tires like that i bet. that's going to be one of today's projects as it's needs attended to, and i hate the clunking, which got worse with warmer weather (and windows down!). the torque strut does sound like a key factor in your case though if it is showing some signs of wear.

[woody90gtz]

FFP dogbone I'm assuming. Mine also has thread marks in it...but it doesn't look to me like they are moving. I also have a hard time thinking there could be play consider how it is sandwiched in the bracket. I remember a noise with my car too, but it's been so damn long I can't remember exactly what it is. I will pay close attention to it as I get it back on the road.

[3X00-Modified]

Actually its a 60* inclusive Dog bone but yeah essentially the same thing.

Hey at least I'm not the only one with this issue... LOL lets start a support group we can all sit in a circle and talk about our suspension clunks on our Beretta's... LOL

[3X00-Modified]

Ok so the god damn ps leak still isn't gone... I'm going to pull it and see if I can find where its coming from now, but it looks like it MAY be the tank to pump seal... If so I may be able to stop that with another O-ring and new clamps to hold the tank on but damn this is becoming a PAIN IN THE ARSE!

[DTMAce]

Sorry, but I can't help but LOL. This is kinda funny.

[berettaboi]

i like the support group idea, the chicks are cute!