1996 Mr.Pink

[1988GTU]

Ok. If you find out otherwise, I could be a source of 2005 mc lt parts for ya...

[Slinky]

1995 Monte Carlo with ABS and 4 wheel disc... I think there may have been a disc drum option... or at least Rock Auto leads you to believe that with how many cylinders you can choose for that car.

Looks like AcDelco PN's 18021217 or 19209209

Mine was the pre 2000 monte carlo master and it helped alot, car stops wherever you want it to at any speed with the wilwoods, Eric wood i believe gave me the part number and it was a 50/50 split vs the stock 70/30 i believe.

[3X00-Modified]

Find that PN... I'm trying to pick one out but there are so many different ones and the acdelco one is like 200+ that's just obnoxious.

Oh wait... your non abs like him... that wont help me.

[woody90gtz]

The non-ABS ones are rear drum. The ABS ones are for rear disc and also rear drum. Says so right on rockauto...

Want:
ACDELCO Part # 174711 {#18021217, 19209209} GM Original Equipment
CYLINDER,BRK MAS w/FRT & RR DISC ANTILOCK BRK(JL9) or ANTILOCK DISC/DRUM BRK(JM4)
4 Wheel ABS Disc brakes (JL9), Front Disc & Rear Drum ABS(Cast Iron) (JM4)

Do not want:
ACDELCO Part # 174707 {#18029965, 19209220} GM Original Equipment
CYLINDER,BRK MAS w/CAST IRON FRT DISC/RR DRUM BRK SYS(J41); w/o FRT & RR DISC ANTILOCK BRK(JL9)
BRAKE SYSTEM,POWER,FRONT DISC,REAR DRUM(Cast Iron) (J41); Except 4 Wheel ABS Disc brakes (JL9)

The ACDelco prices on those are nuts. But you should be able to get any ABS master and have the extra pressure out back. Like this Centric:

CENTRIC Part # 13062090
Premium Master Cylinder-Preferred; Centric Premium
4-Wheel ABS 61.79

[3X00-Modified]

Probably should have bought one of these master cylinders to add to the other BS that I've been trying to fix lately.

For those not on facebook... I have been driving the car for a bit last week to make sure I had a backup so I can rip into my Legacy and find it's Evap leak.... Well Monday morning startup last week I saw a puff of blue smoke... wasn't happy but chocked it up to being from me testing the nitrous fuel solenoid and possibly pooling fuel in the intake which could have mixed with any oil that the breather system has deposited on the intakes... SO needless to say I let it slide. Friday after work I started it up and another puff so I knew something was f-ed up. Got home and could see some smoke lightly coming from the pipes at idle. First thing that crosses my mind is valve seals seeing how they are custom ones to work with the smaller diameter LS type springs and not a one piece seat/seal like factory that could never come loose.

So first things first on Sat I go out and do a compression check... A must have tool or wiring mod for people who work on their cars often is a bump button...



Best thing ever... Don't even need to click on the ignition switch or get the fuel pump running, you can hold the compression checker in one hand and crank the engine with the button.

Results... 205-210 PSI on all cylinders with four compression strokes on each... can't complain about that.

So I rip the front valve cover off, Thank you Van coolant tree, way easier to do with that part since there is no coolant pipe crossing in front of it, and not to my surprise but I find the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 is at the top of the stem and completely exposing the guide. That explains the hit or miss puff of smoke... It would only burn oil and make that visible on startup if the exhaust valve happened to be open when I parked it allowing oil to get into the cylinder, otherwise any oil that leaked in would just be coating and slowly smoking off due to just exhaust heat.





I'll follow this up with saying this is all my fault too and the reason why this head ended up on the front bank... I had started building the heads and installed the seals on one head prior to putting the spring seats on, forgetting that the seat ID was not large enough to go over the seal. SO I had to remove all 6 seals put the seats on then re-install them. Removing them required the use of a pare of pliers which deformed the housing some so upon re-install I attempted to crimp them down a bit with vice grips... this obviously did not work. SO once again I burned myself on this build

So I ordered some 1992 2.2L seals which are slightly different than these they are a full rubber body with a metal clasp that goes around them to hold them on the stem. Others have used them on 3500 heads with LS style springs so I'm going to give them a shot. I can also have them a bit quicker than getting this style again from WOT-Tech. His supplier wont have him any till at least Monday of next week... I should have this buttoned up and running by Thursday.

I still have yet to run one ounce of nitrous through this motor yet... and I'm really itching to do so.

[Money pit Beretta]

Well I for one learned something there. What an odd set up on those LS seals.

[3X00-Modified]

They are actually LS seats and some custom size seal straight from a MFG book, no real application... No different than a 2.2L setup tho where the seal just slips on the guide.

I could use the factory seat/seal if I shave a tiny bit off the base diameter so the spring fits but that changes my spring seats from being 0.044 thick with some having a 0.015 shim, down to 0.030 thick and the extra shims I have aren't big enough to use. So that's just too much extra work and needed parts when I can just use the 2.2 seals and not F with spring heights and whatnot.

[90GTZHO]

Jon are you popping the heads off to change the seals or just pressurizing the chambers?

[3X00-Modified]

Just pressuring the chamber with my leak down tester. I have the spring off the messed up one already but the piston is all the way up to prevent it from falling down till the seals show up.

[Money pit Beretta]

If the LS springs are at their "natural" compressed height then the pockets are right where they need to be. If not or there are changes made then that disrupts the "timing" of the valve. Or where it should be at .xxx of cam lift do to different spring loads in the chamber.
My guess is that you have that covered.

[3X00-Modified]

It's not a matter of the pocket... The spring seat is 0.044 thick as well as some I had to add a .015 shim to get the proper spring install height, so if I remove all of that jazz (LS seat and shims) and put in just a stock 0.033 thick seat then I'm loosing .026 of height when the spring is installed reducing closed spring load and open load... not what I want to do.

[Money pit Beretta]

Read and understood. Damn long week....got a shower to work on this weekend and the mind is stuck on that.

[3X00-Modified]

Got a nice suede dash mat so I don't have to worry so much about using the windshield visor... Save the minty dash!

Just gotta fit it a bit better and secure it down.

[Asylum]

That one actually fits pretty good. Better than mine.

Securing them can be a pain because everything you try MELTS, LOL!

I haven't tried yet, but I think wood screws might work.

[3X00-Modified]

Yeah I figured the glue from the velcro would get a bit soft.... My easy pass if left in the window with the car closed up will be on the floor when I come back.