1996 Mr.Pink

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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Mon Mar 28, 2011 10:11 am

99+ on GA applications
97+ on Malibu, Lumina, and Venture applications.



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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby heavywoody » Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:27 pm

woody90gtz wrote:One of the studs on my 95Z starter broke when I took off the sol engage wire, so I'm in the market for a new one. Is yours OEM or a parts store replacement? I've heard lots of issues with the replacement ones.


You can replace just the solenoid; I had to do it on my mini-starter a couple years ago because the plastic crumbled. Ask Boner for the info, he's got it around someplace.


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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby woody90gtz » Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:36 pm

Holy crap! It's $60 just for the solenoid at Napa. I can get a whole new 95 Beretta starter for $85.


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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby bonecrrusher » Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:42 pm

I ordered the solenoid for 20 bucks off the internet... I'd have to do some research...

You need a 4mm socket.... LOL!


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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Tue Mar 29, 2011 10:19 am

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframe ... 047-540089

Fits a 97 Venture starter... Same Starter used on 00-04 Grand AM 3400's



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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Mon Apr 04, 2011 8:30 am

I got my headers back from blasting and I also got my 2" V-band clamp to replace the stupid 2 bolt flange joint between the front and rear header.

Just waiting on my new header coating that should be here Thursday, and I also need to just get the father inlaws welder to the garage so I can fit and tack that flange in place. I'll probably bring it to the race shop to finish weld since that welder will do a much better job running at 220 vs the 110 one.

Also gotta swing by my cousins to have him tig the teeth of the 2nd drum to the outer drum sleeve for the trans... a modification that is recommended in the rebuild guide that I haven't done yet... Mostly due to the lack of having a tig welder, but also since I have never broke that drum yet. I guess its worth the time to just know it's reinforced now. After that re-assembly time...



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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby DTMAce » Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:10 am

One of these days you need to compile a manual of the changes to the 4-T60E so that other people (like me) can have it for reference when they rebuild theirs. LOL

:D

If you already have, my apologies, I missed it.


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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:16 am

I have a list of the stuff that I've done to one and what I have done to this one in particular...

Manuals can be had on E-bay for the trans just to learn how to rebuild it.

Whats in my current trans is,

Valves: Purchased from http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com
84754-22k Torque converter clutch apply valve kit (standard size) 91-96
84754-23K Anti-stick 1-2 shift valve
84754-25K hi-ratio Reverse & modulated line boost kit
84754-36k 2-3 Shift Valve 94-97
84754-37k 3-2 Downshift valve 91-up
84754-38k 3-4 Shift valve 91-up
84754-39k 4-3 Downshift valve 91-up

Hard Parts: Purchased from http://www.bulkpart.com
A84570B 4th Clutch hub & Shaft (No bearing at clutch hub end/Sleeve race at splined end) 96-99
A84624 Shell, Reverse Reaction, Black Hardened
A14700B Chain, 4T45E / 4T60E 7/8 inch wide

Clutches: Purchased from http://www.level10.com (I recommend http://www.wittrans.com for others, MUCH cheaper) There are also some others out there so Search first.
84119EAS1 (wittrans number) Friction Module Stage 1 95-up (Raybestos Part #RCPS-32)

Steels: Can be purchased from http://www.wittrans.com (I got mine from level10 after complaining)
84139EA Steel Module, L94-UP

Misc parts from TransmissionPartsUSA.com
84532-01k Differential Lube Tube Retainer
84881 Solid pump slide pivot Pin (pack of 5)
4662 Transmission Pump vane (9 needed)


And of course I got all the gaskets o-rings and bushings and thrust washers in my original Level10 kit which you can get from A standard rebuild kit or from WITTRANS.com... as well as replacement Bands. The valves and Low Roller sprag differ for 95, the 95 and older has more of a chance to wear out and fail, so its highly recommended to replace it during rebuild... My 96 one was fine and did not have to be replaced. BulkPart number for that is, A44654 91-95.


List of most of the same as above since it includes this trans, but it also has info in there for what I had done to my old 95 trans before getting the 96...

OK... Big list here... and hopefully a good update for those who want to know what’s fully done to my trans.
Parts list:

Valves: Purchased from http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com
84754-22k Torque converter clutch apply valve kit (standard size) 91-96
84754-23K Anti-stick 1-2 shift valve
84754-25K hi-ratio Reverse & modulated line boost kit
84754-36k 2-3 Shift Valve 94-97
84754-37k 3-2 Downshift valve 91-up
84754-38k 3-4 Shift valve 91-up
84754-39k 4-3 Downshift valve 91-up

Hard Parts: Purchased from http://www.bulkpart.com
A84570B 4th Clutch hub & Shaft (No bearing at clutch hub end/Sleeve race at splined end) 96-99
A84624 Shell, Reverse Reaction, Black Hardened

Clutches: Purchased from http://www.level10.com (I recommend http://www.wittrans.com for others, MUCH cheaper)
84119EAS1 (wittrans number) Friction Module Stage 1 95-up (Raybestos Part #RCPS-32)

Steels: Can be purchased from http://www.wittrans.com (I got mine from level10 after complaining)
84139EA Steel Module, L94-UP

Kits: Purchased from http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com
37936 4t60e Transmission Shift Kit, 1991-1999 (Shift Improver/correction kit, NOT PERFORMANCE)

Rebuild kit: Mine came with level10 Kit, I recommend this for others http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com Or second FULL kit from http://www.northernautoparts.com
37023 Transmission soft Overhaul kit 91-99 (No bonded Pistons, No steels, No fibers) Soft kit, Gaskets, o-rings, sealing rings.
84008EA TranStar Deluxe Rebuild kit (includes Pistons, steels, fibers, front band, and filter)

Bands: Can be purchased at http://www.Bulkpart.com
A84026A 1st & 2nd (Center Band) 1-2 Coast 91-up
B84022E FWD (Rear band) 91-up
B84024A Reverse (Front Band) 91-up

Bushing Kit: Can be purchased at http://www.Bulkpart.com
84030E Bushing Kit 91-up

Thrust washer kit and Misc items: Purchased from http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com
37670A 4t60e Thrust Washer kit 93-up
84532-01k Differential Lube Tube Retainer
84881 Solid pump slide pivot Pin (pack of 5)
4662 Transmission Pump vane (9 needed)
37954 3rd Clutch Bonded Rubber Piston 91-99 (If needed)
37953 2nd clutch Bonded Rubber Piston 91-99 (I would suggest replacing during rebuild)
37888 4t60e Dual red strip vacuum Modulator 83-99 (Universal Adjustable type)

Sprags: MUST REPLACE STOCK on 95-older http://www.bulkpart.com
A44654 1991-1995 1-2 Roller (springs rub inner race and burn out causing failure.)
A84652A 1-2 Roller 1996-up (Factory one typically lasts just fine.)

Now everything that has been done to my current trans has been done in an odd fashion…

I first purchased a Deluxe rebuild kit from Northern Auto which included all the bonded pistons for the apply clutches, two bands, and more, Part Number #84008EA… The piston are not always needed since they don’t wear out that often and most of the apply pistons have lip seals which come in the soft kit. Also when I purchased this full kit it contained the full bushing kit so I did not have to purchase this separate, I listed all the items separate above because if you buy a full kit you waste money on a set of clutches you won’t use. I didn’t do the math, but if you get a full kit that comes with steels and bushings pistons, and bands (if noted) then you may save some money over buying all individual. I only recently did the Stage 1 kit from Level 10 where I'm replacing all the clutches and steels, and replacing my bands since I found a burnt one, and also putting in all new seals since I'm in there, I'm leaving the bushings alone since they look just fine.

I hope to get some pics up later.


Since all that was done I'm in there one more time now. I found some dark spots on the 4th gear clutches, which I think may be from either debris, or not so level mating plates, so I'm using the 4th clutches that I had from the first stage 1 kit I killed to replace them, and I'm also using a set of broken in steels that came from the first Stock rebuild kit I used in Pink car, before going stage 1. I also found some small spots on the 2nd gear clutch which I also think is due to debris or delayed shift but since there are no hot spots on the plates like the 4th ones (why I think the plates are not flat) I'm leaning more toward debris than a slip. so I'm using the 2nd clutches that were spares as well as a set of broken in steels once again to ensure that they work well together. Other than that, the input and 3rd clutch look perfect, and I was more afraid of the input being the one that would be cooked, and also the third is the one that Raybestos sells a special Z-pack for the 65e which happens to fit the 60e so I thought maybe I could damage that in its current state, but all looks well.



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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby woody90gtz » Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:40 am

What new header coating are you going with? I was thinking about blasting mine and redoing them since the ceramic coating is chipping like crazy.


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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Mon Apr 04, 2011 11:09 am

I'm using the same stuff, just a different color, also I had NEVER coated the rear header so this will be a first that the whole set is done. I had to send the headers to a guy in RI to blast them because the sand blaster and media my father inlaw had was not tough enough to even budge the stuff on the front header, so it is quite strong and holds on very well.

I'm using the Techline Coatings stuff, But rather than the stainless steel color which was never shiny for me, I'm going with the Cast Iron color, and then also using their CilgenSeal Clear coating for a better additional Thermal barrier. Kinda like a double coat.



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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby woody90gtz » Mon Apr 04, 2011 11:54 am

http://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-perf ... tings.html

Any idea what the Colorguard "aluminum" or "shiny aluminum" looks like?


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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Mon Apr 04, 2011 12:06 pm

No idea, there aren't many pics of the colors up there.



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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby woody90gtz » Mon Apr 04, 2011 2:02 pm

I went on their forum and found pics of their colorguard "black" that looks more like a dark gray.
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I did some stalking, and this is what your "stainless" looked like after one season, right?
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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Mon Apr 04, 2011 6:39 pm

One season no, It has always been coated while in the pink car, and those have been on that car since May 08... but also I never polished it like I was supposed to and who knows if I even applied it right. That was my first time using a HVLP gun.



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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Postby 3X00-Modified » Tue Apr 12, 2011 9:49 pm

Finally got to touch it tonight....

Well I assembled my engine hoist, I was tired of borrowing everyones, and then I did a little work till I get the damn welder that I've been waiting for... thats whats holding me up.

I pulled the valve covers and replaced the gaskets and grommets, as well as put my new heat wire loom on the crank sensor wire and the bundle that goes down to the speed sensor and oil pan low oil sensor, both of those wire covers melted last year and I used cheap crap from Advance auto.

I also took some chitty cell phone pics... I still cant find my 8gb memory card for my camera... thats pissing me off.

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Picture of new V-band flange I will eventually be welding in.
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Lets see if anyone else notices another change I'm working on.

Going to bring the second gear drum to my cousin tomorrow to tig and then I can clean and assemble the trans. I also purchased a new chain for it since I figured it would be smart to replace the 96 or 99 one that I've been using since I'm asking for so much from it :)




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