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1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 8:51 am
by 3X00-Modified
January 2010 Build

I can pull the pre 2010 stuff over from 60* but I'm too lazy right now, Maybe I will later :)

Trans and motor is out... Currently trying to find a 2" v-band clamp or something that will seal better than what I currently have for the header x-over, found a few leaks on the exhaust gaskets but I think it was due to me leaving the bolts rather loose because of my thread issue.

Also EVERYTHING stayed sealed except for the damn valve covers! I guess I can’t complain too much.

Trans removal required a good ole method described by Mr Mike... He would be proud.

15 zip-ties and a strut bar will support half an engine...

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I still love my transmission stand
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Reason for doing the engine holding with zip ties, was I actually have a real transmission jack now, but my jack stands do not go high enough, so I had to jack up the car from the front more and when doing that the jackstand under the motor would obviously not raise with it so I had to support the motor from the top. :) I currently didn’t have the engine hoist at the shop otherwise I would have used that.

I now have SUV jack stands that go up to 20" high... that should give the clearance I need to re-install the trans. But I'll have to find another stand high enough to support the motor as well when at that height, but it shouldn’t be that hard to find something.

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 8:59 am
by 3X00-Modified
Current plans that I will be starting real soon...

1. Re-install rebuilt LSD should be getting back from Jeff next week sometime.
2. Quick look through trans to ensure no clutches are slipping.
3. Re-seal valve covers
4. Make a jig to drill tap and helicoil all the exhaust bolt threads... they are all wicked loose so its time to replace them properly.
5. Pull as much wiring out of the way as I can so I can clean/coat the engine bay. I'm not worrying so much about the parts below the strut towers so I'll probably coat that area with bed liner, and then do just the strut towers and visible area's with Raspberry paint.
6. Replace blower motor, Re-paint housing.
7. Clean up all aluminum components, ABS Ecm, cruise, wiper box.
8. Re-seal cowl after cleaning and prepping area good... I did not prep well the first time so I was actually able to easily pull out all the window weld I put in there.
9. Replace AC compressor... leaking badly...
10. Replace Heater core... Not broke yet, but yes its still a factory one! Time for the all aluminum version
11. Install stereo, and possibly amp for speakers... I'm really not sure about putting in the subs since I do not want to sacrifice all that trunk space... As well as add all the weight.

Yeah I have all this to do before Berettafest, But at the same time the race car is currently 100% stripped down to the frame and is getting ready to do a front clip on it... THAT is going to be time consuming since we are changing from the factory clip to the now allowed tube built front clip... mostly just extending the roll bars is going to be a pain.

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Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 9:33 am
by woody90gtz
3X00-Modified wrote:15 zip-ties and a strut bar will support half an engine...

That's a 6, it's 3/4 of an engine. Your other car is half. :P

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 9:49 am
by 3X00-Modified
woody90gtz wrote:
3X00-Modified wrote:15 zip-ties and a strut bar will support half an engine...

That's a 6, it's 3/4 of an engine. Your other car is half. :P


My half an engine is faster than your 3/4 of an engine... LOL

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 11:16 am
by 90GTZHO
Jon you should have used the black zip ties, they are a lil stronger IMO. I do like the idea though lol

Your gonna have to get a move on man if your gonna be done in time to get things "broken in" and cleaned and all that. I started mine back in december and im worried about having everything done in time. Of course, you have your car at home in a garage, mines in a shop 28 miles away :(

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 12:06 pm
by DTMAce
You mean, someone else may be rushing to finish in time for fest? LOL

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 12:13 pm
by 3400beretta
http://www.frozenboost.com/index.php?cPath=210&osCsid=c5438384c2333395e37c67d20dc8f57d

Scroll about half way down the page. Best price on V-bands that I have found. I bought all mine from this place when I did my exhaust.

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 12:37 pm
by woody90gtz
DTMAce wrote:You mean, someone else may be rushing to finish in time for fest? LOL

You're all further along than I am...

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 12:39 pm
by 90GTZHO
Woody what you do this time? lol

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 1:03 pm
by 3X00-Modified
He needs to replace his clutch or find out why its slipping if it is... which also may mean replace the rear main seal.

Thanks Rodney!

and really nothing needs to be broken in other than the LSD... and I can do that going back and forth to work for a week or two... The rest is staying together.

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 2:02 pm
by Robert 89gt
Busy busy i still need to install my lsd and rebuild my spare trans.I started ordering parts for the engine build.But i really don't see that happening anytime soon.Looks good jon keep up the good work.

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 2:11 pm
by DTMAce
3X00-Modified wrote:Current plans that I will be starting real soon...


11. Install stereo, and possibly amp for speakers... I'm really not sure about putting in the subs since I do not want to sacrifice all that trunk space... As well as add all the weight.



Hey, just thought I would offer a solution....

I built a custom fit cabinet that fits in just one corner of the trunk, and its completely removable. If you want details, let me know. I don't know if you saw it at fest last year or not, but its sized large enough to provide decent bass acoustics (and it uses the trunk space for some of it) accommodates a 12" NON-ported sub (dual voice is best) and yet can be removed within a couple of minutes.

Best of all, it adds plenty of thump without being overwhelming or power hungry.

Will see if I have pics of it in my project thread, can link ya if so, if not, I will upload some tomorrow.

Here are some pics of it:

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I know I have other shots of it elsewhere.

Just to add further, this was before I did the interior work. I have since ran a larger feed for the amp, larger ground and so forth. The only mod I had to do is install some closed loop hasps to the floor of the trunk right along the lower sub frame, for strength. Then the speaker is held down with simple bungies, so that it can be removed at any time when needed. I just pull the forward amp fuse to make the line to the amp dead, so no shorts will occur while its out. :D

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 3:01 pm
by MY91GT(Z)
i have always found it interesting to what jon has up his sleeve when workin on his car and always looks great

i have my work cut out fo rme also have toorder and replace the clutch, downgrade the frt brakes, put new suspension in and clean the trans up b4 reinstall and break it in b4 then. i was hoping to have it painted too by then but will have to wait and see what i can get done

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 6:27 pm
by bonecrrusher
Jon - have you thought about these for your headers?

http://www.mpracing.org/store/index.php ... ductId=502

I bought a set when I was building my 3400 - but I never got a chance to use them.

Re: 1996 Mr.Pink

Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 8:47 pm
by 3X00-Modified
Well tearing it down goes quick, now it's just the time to clean and seal it good then paint it.

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Craig my issue is not the bolts coming loose, I've actually never lost a bolt. My problem is the threads in the head are near stripped out so on some if I tightened them they would pop loose one thread... so it's time to helicoil them, since that's how threads should be done on aluminum parts anyways.