Beretta.net

Hey 20 bucks less is a good thing. Sure hope it solves the problem and is good quality. Not to be a jerk, but you have had alot of trouble with mechanics in your area. I'm going to wait and see.

The part is the same brand as rock auto has. I hope it's good quality too. It's spectra brand or something like that. It will be here on Monday.
That is the only place it smoked out of, so that has got to be it. It is messing with the A/F ratio. Thats why I'm hearing the glugging from that area of the car on start-ups. It's not holding the correct pressure. Don't know if this will solve the misfires too, but it should clear up the evap issue.

Post up some pics of the old fill tube.

When I get it out of there I'll try and get a quick pic. I'm not doing it myself, I'm taking it to the same place the smoke test was done at. I've known this guy for years, and I honestly forgot all about him. He does do good work, and he is one of the more reputable mechanics in my area here. Prices are very good too. 30 bucks for the test, compared to the $60+ I was quoted at every other place I called. It'll be 30 bucks to remove and replace the filler neck too.

Save your money, it is way to easy to do. Just get under there and look at it. Took me all of three minutes to take it off.

I put the new bra on it a few days ago, heres a couple pics. Just the first 2.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/63315008@N ... 7996755871

Looks good. So your not going to do the work yourself?

Nah, I'm gonna have the mechanic do it, and clear the codes. Tuesday it will be getting done.

You can get rid of the codes by unpluging the battery, but ok. Just trying to save you some money after all that you spent trying to fix this.

Ok, the filler neck was put in like 2 weeks ago. The last time I drove the car was the day before I got the 94. My dad has been driving it. The last day I drove it the SES light came back on. I took it to autozone and had it scaned again. Same damn evap code. Incorrect purge flow or some dumb crap like that. No mis fires though. My dad has been using the car, and using the heat in it. He claims that with the heater contorls on either blend or just heat, the car does not surge on cold starts. However if he drives it 2 blocks to the store, shuts it off, and goes in, the restart is funky. Like when it cranks and starts it revs up to like 2500 rpm just on the inital start, and immedietly dies. He restarts the car, and it runs fine with no surging. What kind of problem would cause a diffrence in the way it runs with the heater controls on? Also, will the gas cap from my 94 work on the 96? Just a thought. Maybe I can swap gas caps and see if the 94 throws an engine light at me. The car just passed emissions, but the mechanic may not have even pressure tested the cap. I've been hearing storys like that around here from almost everyone I've talked to about this.

The gas cap swap sounds like a good idea. The HVAC controls are run by vacuum.

So there is no difference in the gas caps on obd 2 cars compared to the 1.5 system in the 94? Just making sure, if they're the same I'll swap em when I get home and see what happens.
If this solves the problem I'm gonna feel like an idiot, and hate local mechanics even more than I do now!
On the HVAC controls front, anyone have any idea what could go wrong here and cause a vaccum leak from the system? Hoses, lines etc.? When I had the smoke test done it only came out of the filler neck, and that thing was terrible, rusted to crap. With the new neck in, should I run another test on it? Maybe thats not the only place it was leaking from, but it all just went there due to the severity of the leak. Is that a possibility?

I don't see why there would be a difference.

Ok, the car is in the shop, my mechanic is running diagnostics on it to try and figure this crap out. I was gonna have the thermostat replaced, but he said if it really dosen't need it, don't do it. He says it's alot of work to get to and replace. What does it take to replace the t-stat? He put a battery in it, cause it's been weak for the last couple weeks. Hopefully he can diagnose what is wrong, so I can sell it. The potential buyer is from NY, and it needs to be able to pass NYS Emissions.
More later, my dad just talked to the mechanic, as I've been typing.

It's not that hard to change the T stat on a 3100. You have to take somethings off, but it's nothing vs doing it on a Quad. The neck on the 3100 t stat housing has a notch cut out on the bottom so you don't even have to take that bolt out.