Pauly's 90 GTZ rebuild.
Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:50 pm
Well as some of you may know, October 2009 i over revved for tooooo long and 'spun a bearing' on the crank at #3 rod. The oil over heated and the crank was warped. When the oil/engine cooled down, it can be driven (more noise then 3 Quads put together).
I needed to save up some $$$$$ to repair my little baby. I am the original owner of the 90 GTZ with 51 000 miles on her. I did not want to buy a JY engine with 150k on it, so i saved up, and in march the rebuild was started. If i was to rebuild it, i wanted the best parts i could lay my hand on.
here is the list of what i got.
brand new wrapped in a 1991 news paper a Rocket Parts forged crank.
Eagle rods.
Ross racing pistons (powder coated top and sides), compression still at 10:1 reverse dome.
Total Seal piston rings.
Extremely high compression bee hive springs (for my high revving).
Ottawa (bully) clutch, stage 1, 4 disk kevlar/organic (dual friction).
rocket parts flywheel (lightly used).
Ron S. headers, (powder coated black).
Dynomax #17226 muffler.
Vibrant metal core cat #7100.
2 1/4" mandrel exhaust pipe.
SS flex coupler, SS exhaust tips.
Auto Meter Pro-Lite, warning lite sensor system. set at water 230 deg. F, oil 275 deg. F.
MSD Ignition, tune able shift light.
Northern twin electric 2400 CFM rad fan.
62 mm TB with a proper CAI, K&N cone filter # RU 1460.
B&M oil cooler rad #70265 with SS braided lines.
DEI exhaust wrap(for the headers).
180 deg F thermostat.
Felpro gas kits all around.
new brass valve guides.
new head bolts.
to increase the air flow upwards into the rad's, (water, A/C, oil) a mustang mach 1 Chin spoiler.
light weight (racing) starter.
the tranny was sent out to Engineered Performance, he installed his LSD unit, and changed my FDR to 3.94.
i also bought 4 deg. +/- adj. cam gears, they had to be removed. the vacuum was way to low with that much over lap.
i have a spare Felpro set.
i have an aluminum Fidenza fly wheel. (it did not arrive in time, therefor i bought/installed the RP)
still remaining is the greatly required tuning. she breaths and ex hails a hell of a lot more then ever.
un tuned the car has been dynode 4 times, ther best is at a modest 6800 revs, 174.7 HP and 141.5 torque. My air fuel exhaust ratio is off.(need to be tuned). She was born to a 180HP and 160 torque at the flywheel.
side note: prior to installing the heat resistant tape on the headers, i did a 2 hour highway round trip run on a very hot day with the A/C on max. the engine compartment became very hot. the headers heat melted my steering bellows. so they installed an asbestos blanket from a cavalier on my new bellows.
the speed shop put out 140 or so hours. which includes all machine work on the engine.
in march i told them that i wanted to do the above mentioned rebuild, and that i wanted to stay with pumped gas(that is why they choose to keep me at 10:1 compression ratio (i wanted 11:1 or so). it also explains the safety heat (oil and water) sensors/light. also the need for an external oil cooler and increase CFM at the rad fans.
they balanced and blue printed, and magna fluxed the block. the head was plained. etc, etc. the only thing they did not do that i really wanted them to do, was to send it all out for a Cryo freeze. it would of cost (Cryo only) about $1000.00, including my rotors and shafts..
they also detailed the engine compartment and re painted the 'cradle'.
** prior mods include:
W 41 cams and chip.(chip from racin17)
92 front brakes (10.2")
rear disk from a pontiac 6000 STE(10.2")
MRZ fully welded strut bar, and shock tower braces.
Mantaparts lowering kit, and bigger sway bars.
ported and polished 086 head, extrude and honed intake log.
Pauly.
I needed to save up some $$$$$ to repair my little baby. I am the original owner of the 90 GTZ with 51 000 miles on her. I did not want to buy a JY engine with 150k on it, so i saved up, and in march the rebuild was started. If i was to rebuild it, i wanted the best parts i could lay my hand on.
here is the list of what i got.
brand new wrapped in a 1991 news paper a Rocket Parts forged crank.
Eagle rods.
Ross racing pistons (powder coated top and sides), compression still at 10:1 reverse dome.
Total Seal piston rings.
Extremely high compression bee hive springs (for my high revving).
Ottawa (bully) clutch, stage 1, 4 disk kevlar/organic (dual friction).
rocket parts flywheel (lightly used).
Ron S. headers, (powder coated black).
Dynomax #17226 muffler.
Vibrant metal core cat #7100.
2 1/4" mandrel exhaust pipe.
SS flex coupler, SS exhaust tips.
Auto Meter Pro-Lite, warning lite sensor system. set at water 230 deg. F, oil 275 deg. F.
MSD Ignition, tune able shift light.
Northern twin electric 2400 CFM rad fan.
62 mm TB with a proper CAI, K&N cone filter # RU 1460.
B&M oil cooler rad #70265 with SS braided lines.
DEI exhaust wrap(for the headers).
180 deg F thermostat.
Felpro gas kits all around.
new brass valve guides.
new head bolts.
to increase the air flow upwards into the rad's, (water, A/C, oil) a mustang mach 1 Chin spoiler.
light weight (racing) starter.
the tranny was sent out to Engineered Performance, he installed his LSD unit, and changed my FDR to 3.94.
i also bought 4 deg. +/- adj. cam gears, they had to be removed. the vacuum was way to low with that much over lap.
i have a spare Felpro set.
i have an aluminum Fidenza fly wheel. (it did not arrive in time, therefor i bought/installed the RP)
still remaining is the greatly required tuning. she breaths and ex hails a hell of a lot more then ever.
un tuned the car has been dynode 4 times, ther best is at a modest 6800 revs, 174.7 HP and 141.5 torque. My air fuel exhaust ratio is off.(need to be tuned). She was born to a 180HP and 160 torque at the flywheel.
side note: prior to installing the heat resistant tape on the headers, i did a 2 hour highway round trip run on a very hot day with the A/C on max. the engine compartment became very hot. the headers heat melted my steering bellows. so they installed an asbestos blanket from a cavalier on my new bellows.
the speed shop put out 140 or so hours. which includes all machine work on the engine.
in march i told them that i wanted to do the above mentioned rebuild, and that i wanted to stay with pumped gas(that is why they choose to keep me at 10:1 compression ratio (i wanted 11:1 or so). it also explains the safety heat (oil and water) sensors/light. also the need for an external oil cooler and increase CFM at the rad fans.
they balanced and blue printed, and magna fluxed the block. the head was plained. etc, etc. the only thing they did not do that i really wanted them to do, was to send it all out for a Cryo freeze. it would of cost (Cryo only) about $1000.00, including my rotors and shafts..
they also detailed the engine compartment and re painted the 'cradle'.
** prior mods include:
W 41 cams and chip.(chip from racin17)
92 front brakes (10.2")
rear disk from a pontiac 6000 STE(10.2")
MRZ fully welded strut bar, and shock tower braces.
Mantaparts lowering kit, and bigger sway bars.
ported and polished 086 head, extrude and honed intake log.
Pauly.
old engine compartment.
new engine compartment.
headers
headers exhaust
SS tips
taped up headers
protector installed on steering bellows.
oil cooler
oil cooler and SS lines
62mm throttle body
TB and a portion of Cold Air Induction
relocated canister(due to swap with CAI)
twin rad fans (2400CFM)
LEFT: high temp, either 230 F rad/water, or 275 F oil. RIGHT: shift light.