sc3800 conversion this winter

[Guest]

Being that you have an '88, the struts on the front at least might be fairly worn, I dont know but that might be a good way to go. That way your car wont be too lazy in the front from the added weight.  I also highly recommend a strut tower bar, I have one off of a Cavalier, its worth the few bucks from the bone yard.  I have Eibach springs, they dont do much for lowering, but I love the handling they provide. Might be something to look into since you seem to be a do it yourselfer.
Keep us updated!
Ron
'90 GTZ

[Guest]

with the new engine going in this winter, I thought I should pgrade the suspension. All of it.

Any thoughts welcomed.

[Guest]

You should check out Mantapart, a serious engine REQUIRES a serious suspension and brakes, after all what good is all that power if you can't use it    I purchased the full kit from Mantapart. Eibach springs, sports swaybars (huge) polyurethane everything, sports shocks and struts, front upper and lower stut supports and rear shock support  and it only came out to a little over $1200 including shipping. The guy was real cool and cut me a break too.(should've been more) I plan on getting the rear disk conversion but it's another $900+. That's what your car needs if your getting the 3.8SC. Unless you want to wreck, or drive like a granny.

[nocutt]

IMHO...you definately have to upgrade the front suspension and of course brakes...I will suggest a well thought out plan...what I did and currently doing is:

Tires first...(i haven't done yet) my combo is still a secret rest assured I will post this in the future, but they hold the greatest mod to all the suspension AND braking upgrade.
Look into a bigger brake setup...I am currently doing the corvette big brake upgrade... and it is WAAaay cheaper than mantapart's.
I have koni's sport struts and I am going to do a groundcontrol coilover setup for the fronts too...I think it offers a better solution to suspension tuning...I got their 500 lb rated springs and 2.5 collar...it can be adjusted (according to my calculation) 2 inches +/- the stock beretta height...as for the back I have the kyb's, the springs I might cut...I really don't know yet, I got the 1" addco rear sway bar and some polyurethane bushings...also I have the internal swaybar...as for the rear brakes it is entirely up to you...rpenling is currently working on a rear brake conversion, I am also...two different techniques or just go to mantapart and get those expensive things...the truth of the matter is they are really going to be a joke...as far aesthetics, they look he11a sweet,
I am speaking from experience...I have about 320 hp on my car and I will tell you the stock beretta brakes are not that bad, well on my GTU that is...until they heat up!! then you are on your own...lol! I say settle for a front upgrade and move from there...

[Guest]

I'd get stiff springs like ebiach. Then get some quality struts in the front like bilsteins or Konis. Rear won't be handling as much wieght so possibly even monroes on the rear would suffice.

A big anti-sway bar in the rear and replace any worn bushings with polyurathane stuff. Strut tower brace if it will fit.

Wide tires if you don't have already. the 205 on my beretta feels just right. Maybe go 225/50/16 if you could fit it there some say it works.. That would look keen and handle great.

Sticky rubber is a must for racing. I have winter 205/55/16's on the front and I can break them free easier than my old skinny tires. I chirped them once going down hill on then on-ramp to the highway even hehe.

But becarefull once it's all said and done and don't take it to it's limits right away. Slowly learn where it's limits are. And Watch out for cops. When I race I only go ~5-7 past the speed limit, and up to 15 over on the highway.

[yellow3800]

I have Eibach Springs [lowering is possible, but very low] and KONI shocks.  My front air dam sits a measured 3" above the ground.  On the softest setting of the Koni shocks, it is stiffer that twice that of OEM shocks.  The reason I went with Eibach is the STIFFNESS, any lesser spring will make your car dangerous to drive as mine was!  [hey, I had to make it to bfest '01!]

Oh, another note, With rear disk brakes, I can outstop a light GTZ with only 10" front rotors.  I have yet to upgrade the front to 13" rotors.

Andy
3800V6 from 2.0 4cyl
not yet weighed, time trapped, or dynoed

[RebelGT]

you'd probally wanna find the weight differance in the engines, and figure out how much of a stiffer/taller spring you will need.

[nocutt]

Quote (yellow3800 @ Jan. 24 2002,09:23)I have Eibach Springs [lowering is possible, but very low] and KONI shocks.  My front air dam sits a measured 3" above the ground.  On the softest setting of the Koni shocks, it is stiffer that twice that of OEM shocks.  The reason I went with Eibach is the STIFFNESS, any lesser spring will make your car dangerous to drive as mine was!  [hey, I had to make it to bfest '01!]

Oh, another note, With rear disk brakes, I can outstop a light GTZ with only 10" front rotors.  I have yet to upgrade the front to 13" rotors.

Andy
3800V6 from 2.0 4cyl
not yet weighed, time trapped, or dynoed
Till the brakes start to get heated then the drum idea will be outta the window!!...the stock beretta brakes are remarkable...street driven, but the moment you over power them especially by more engine power then you have to upgrade...it is a given. Drums are fine believe me, but they do not dissipate heat fast enough!! Well I was told we could get bigger drums...ish but for another probably two bills more you can have a rear disc conversion ez!!