Engine oil flush

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stizkidz
Registered User
Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2002 9:25 pm
Location: South Jersey

Engine oil flush

Post by stizkidz »

ok,

as you may know i work at a pep boys in new jersey in the service department.  we just got a new service offerred called an engine oil flush by bilstein.  first, you drain your oil, then they hook a tube from the machine up to your oil filter plug and another to your drain plug and then the machine rinses a cleaner through the engine to a filter on the machine.  it then sucks out every last bit of cleaner from your engine and you do a normal oil change from here.  i have seen it in action and it really cleans all of the crap out of the engines, it really works well.

my question is, should i do this to my car.  i have a 3.1 with 130,000 miles.  i have regularly changed the oil and when i open the oil cap, it appears very very clean down there.  when i purchased the car, it had an up to date "oil change sticker" on the windshield.  pep boys has assured me that it will not hurt my engine and they will give me the flush for a discount because im an employee.  any recommendations?  i am skeptical of doing this...

-Ben


Sold:
-90 Beretta 3.1 auto, red
Offroad Rig:
-88 K5 Blazer 5.7 manual, black
Showcar:
-87 Buick Grand National 3.8 Turbo auto, black
-88k original miles
Daily Driver:
-98 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 manual, green
Guest

Engine oil flush

Post by Guest »

I would definitely be skeptical as well.. I had a little head gasket leak a few months back and it was leaking and burning off internally.  I had the mayonnaise on the oil cap every time I checked the oil.  I used Bar's stop leak to fix that and it worked.  Totally sealed it up.  

However, I figured that there was alot of gunk in the engine from the coolant.  I bought some engine flush that does what you were saying except you just let the engine run with it in there at idle a couple min before an oil change and then you change the oil. Frees up all the deposits in the block and pan.  Well, now I have an oil leak from somewhere in the back side of my engine.  It was definitely because of the engine flush because it started leaking the next day.  Not alot, about a quart every couple weeks, but still it sucks.  

Because of this big long story I would advise against it..


Guest

Engine oil flush

Post by Guest »

I reccommend against this for a few reasons. With 130k on the engine it has worn some of the internal parts and has built up a varnish and sludge in it to fill the voids left by the worn parts. If you flush the motor you will probably notice that your car will begin to burn oil and have blue smoke out the tailpipe. It may alos develope internal noises. I would advise against it.


stizkidz
Registered User
Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2002 9:25 pm
Location: South Jersey

Engine oil flush

Post by stizkidz »

ok, i wont do it (even though i can get it for free)...  looks like my time is best spent fixing that #### distributor o-ring oil leak.

-Ben


Sold:
-90 Beretta 3.1 auto, red
Offroad Rig:
-88 K5 Blazer 5.7 manual, black
Showcar:
-87 Buick Grand National 3.8 Turbo auto, black
-88k original miles
Daily Driver:
-98 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 manual, green
Guest

Engine oil flush

Post by Guest »

Quote (Microdvd @ Sep. 03 2002,2:22)I would definitely be skeptical as well.. I had a little head gasket leak a few months back and it was leaking and burning off internally.  I had the mayonnaise on the oil cap every time I checked the oil.  I used Bar's stop leak to fix that and it worked.  Totally sealed it up. ÂÂÂ

However, I figured that there was alot of gunk in the engine from the coolant.  I bought some engine flush that does what you were saying except you just let the engine run with it in there at idle a couple min before an oil change and then you change the oil. Frees up all the deposits in the block and pan.  Well, now I have an oil leak from somewhere in the back side of my engine.  It was definitely because of the engine flush because it started leaking the next day.  Not alot, about a quart every couple weeks, but still it sucks. ÂÂÂ

Because of this big long story I would advise against it..
Two things I'd be looking for, the most important one is the cranksensor (stupid "o" ring), and the second would be the valve cover in back. May even want to check the oil pump drive assy (aka distributor "o" ring).


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