Beretta.net

Seriously considering of running a 50 shot of NOS. Anyone have experience with a system of this method on a Beretta?

What method... wet? Dry? Fogger? Direct port?

Well I wanted to install a wideband first to determine my afr's. then I would know if a dry system would be okay. Tuning is on hold. I just want something to help the higher gears when on the highway.

You need pretty advanced EFI software to do dry. I would recommend wet.
I'm not sure I know what you mean about using it in high gears on the highway. Nitrous is only activated at wide open throttle.

woody90gtz wrote:You need pretty advanced EFI software to do dry. I would recommend wet.
I'm not sure I know what you mean about using it in high gears on the highway. Nitrous is only activated at wide open throttle.

I get the impression he wants to use it during WOT to see how far he can push the vehicles "top speed."

I personally have not worked with Nitrous, but I've always been told the wet kits are easier to work with.
Don't quote me on this but I believe some people say you need colder plugs and I don't remember if your spark timing needs retarded or not during the wet shot.

I feel this video from engine masters had good info:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AScojLj139A
But how much Nirtous the v6 can handle might be different.

I wanted to have to have it activated by a button or switch. Wet kit is safer for the engine however a dry kit will work if I'm running rich and I have a feeling she is running rich.

It would still need to be wired into a WOT switch because as noted above nitrous should never be engaged unless you are at WOT which ensures your engine is running in open loop and delivering PE fueling and not cruising mixture. A wet kit is still the best way to do it... Get the car fixed so it's not running rich at WOT n/a and then add the wet kit on top of it... That way if you go WOT without the nitrous system enabled the car will still respond and run well and not be flooded with fuel.

I've been playing with nitrous since 2005ish...

Yah I feel like the minimum needed to do it the safe way is: Window switch, WOT switch, and activation button, all three must be true to provide Nitrous. Possibly a pressure switch so the tank pressure doesn't drop too low that its just open vapors.
If you have a manual, possibly a switch on the clutch pedal may also be necessary?

Switch on the clutch pedal isn't necessary. Throttle definitely though.

I was thinking it could be a good safety measure in case the left food accidentally presses the clutch in while at WOT, prevents the "human error" from causing a boom with the Nitrous. lol

A window switch and a proper rev limiter will eliminate any of those issues. My car has both. Nitrous shuts off at 6900 and spark is removed at 7k to limit the engine.

If done properly Nitrous will not cause any more harm to an engine than any other forced induction option would... but if you guess, assume, and take shots in the dark and don't have proper tuning tools or monitoring tools then yes Nitrous can be devastating to an engine and sadly those are typically the stories you hear about. I've been running Nitrous since 2005 or so and I have never blown up a motor because of it yet. I have found gasket weaknesses but that would have reared it's ugly head if I were turbo, or SC'd as well. Hell, I melted a piston on my daily driven turbo'd car and yet to have hurt ANY pistons in my Beretta setup.

3X00-Modified wrote:A window switch and a proper rev limiter will eliminate any of those issues. My car has both. Nitrous shuts off at 6900 and spark is removed at 7k to limit the engine.

If done properly Nitrous will not cause any more harm to an engine than any other forced induction option would... but if you guess, assume, and take shots in the dark and don't have proper tuning tools or monitoring tools then yes Nitrous can be devastating to an engine and sadly those are typically the stories you hear about. I've been running Nitrous since 2005 or so and I have never blown up a motor because of it yet. I have found gasket weaknesses but that would have reared it's ugly head if I were turbo, or SC'd as well. Hell, I melted a piston on my daily driven turbo'd car and yet to have hurt ANY pistons in my Beretta setup.

The first thing I though of was someone revving an engine at redline while holding the Nirtous on and both were pegging on/off. lol

If you don't notice an issue and do something like that you shouldn't have a car... Most everyone will notice the first time it touches the limiter and let off if it seems like it will do it again... but both being enabled like that will save the motor INCLUDING the intelligence of the driver behind the wheel knowing when to lift if there is a problem.

3X00-Modified wrote:If you don't notice an issue and do something like that you shouldn't have a car... Most everyone will notice the first time it touches the limiter and let off if it seems like it will do it again... but both being enabled like that will save the motor INCLUDING the intelligence of the driver behind the wheel knowing when to lift if there is a problem.

lol It comes down to how far should the "idiot proofing" go to ensure a safe usage of a vehicle/product. lol I know most who use it will be smart about it, but youtube has many entertaining examples of the "idiot" side of this. lol

Yea, it currently runs rich due to the long tube Ron's header I have installed. The 02 sensor positions need to be reviewed.

All these measures mentioned are for the "idiot proof" factor. As well has the health of the engine. The bottle pressure as mentioned would help with performance. However, I have friends with Nitrous and they run it with a button activated switch only @ WOT in 5th gear.....no other extras included. Only one guy melted a piston when he didn't let go of the switch just to win a run.

Anyone great with tuning these older systems? I have HPtuners....lol but that's no use to this vehicle.