Supercharged beretta v6 dynoed

[spacecadetz26]

your completely lost there xtremeberettacreationsindy3100custom91gtunderconstruction.com

[paintgod93]

Yeah, you guys lost me...

[Norm 88GT]

Quote (z284pwr @ April 12 2004,18:43)Quote (mcgavinz26 @ April 13 2004,17:26)If anyone wants to get back on topic and tell Norm that his car is cool, I think thats the way to go with this topic, no more bickering.
I'll get back on topic then....

I think his car is a great accomplishment, his setup is the only one on here that closely resembles mine in engine build wise and electronics.  Norm was nice enough to email me his F.A.S.T timing map.  On that subject, I don't suppose you could mail me your timing map again if you've made any updates to see what I have in comparison, from what I remember the one before has like 30* advance under boost compared to the 28*.  Why is the timing so high BTW?  I asked around on the 60DegreeV6 forums and they were all saying that 28
I make programming changes as the weather changes as I have recently installed a 2.2" pulley(from 2.5") and rework intake/IC plumbing.  If the weather is constant and I usually don't have to make any changes once I spent a few minutes on the computer during the work commute. ÂÂÂ

Weather in Ohio varies from 30F to 75F for the next 30 days or so.  The later tempature is new to the current setup and will be pulling out the notebook to do datalogs.  There is also a change in winter gasoline, similar to nocutt's(CA) donkey piss, to summer gas.  Believe me there is a difference when your tuning near the detonation thresold.

When I was making 5psi @ 5300 RPMs(172whp/202rtrq - 14.4 @ 97 MPH) I could run timing that only a stock Beretta with aftermarket chip runs.  I made about 1.5 psi @ peak torque.  I was running 32*.  I tried richening the AF and keeping the timing but it sounded like metal in a microwave or bb's in a coffee can.  Then with the 24# injectors I was running 23* with a leaner AF and was not pleased with the power and response.  I richened up and brought the timing back up.  The 24# were maxed and going static @ 4000 RPMs.  Hence the porcelin being blown off the last sparkplug.

I run 28* currently with 12.3:1 for the street.  If I was on a road course I would tuning a bit more conservative.  A 180 Hypertech thermostat, along with a IC that puts intakes temps right near ambient for daily driving, and one range colder sparkplug help keep the engine under control. ÂÂÂ

Grace89SS, you have a half a liter on me.   With the fuel and exhaust up torque should go up slightly(sheesh, close to 300 flywheel) and hp will definitely rise.

[bonecrrusher]

Quote (Indy3100 @ April 14 2004,05:14)bigbuls clam down geez dont be taking it out on keith he is probley the one of the first one who put a 3800sc in to beretta so I do know what keith knows when he is talking about.
Actually the first running L67 swap that Ive seen in person was in Matt's white L67 up in chicago.... and that was over 2 years ago.

[spacecadetz26]

it won't pass emissions so he doesnt drive it anymore, but he is going to take it back to the track this summer...

[z284pwr]

Quote (spacecadetz26 @ April 14 2004,10:35)it won't pass emissions so he doesnt drive it anymore, but he is going to take it back to the track this summer...
damn that sucks, another reason why programmable computer is AWESOME.....I had my car emissioned a couple weeks back....ya, I had reading of 0 ppm at idle, and 3 a 2500.....he tested it twice he had to make sure the probe was in the exhaust, hows that for a clean running car

One more question out of curiosity Norm if you don't mind, so if I understand this, being that fact that the motor is actually built, enable it to go with the higher timing the stock motors won't.  That and you seem to be like me, more timing with more fuel than the leaner with less timing....
Thanks for the last info BTW, I'll have to keep that in mind, I did find that my cousin's local friend that has quite a bit of experience with Haltech, I'm gonna talk with him see if he has any suggestions...

[Norm 88GT]

Quote (z284pwr @ April 13 2004,22:49)Quote (spacecadetz26 @ April 14 2004,10:35)it won't pass emissions so he doesnt drive it anymore, but he is going to take it back to the track this summer...
damn that sucks, another reason why programmable computer is AWESOME.....I had my car emissioned a couple weeks back....ya, I had reading of 0 ppm at idle, and 3 a 2500.....he tested it twice he had to make sure the probe was in the exhaust, hows that for a clean running car

One more question out of curiosity Norm if you don't mind, so if I understand this, being that fact that the motor is actually built, enable it to go with the higher timing the stock motors won't.  That and you seem to be like me, more timing with more fuel than the leaner with less timing....
Thanks for the last info BTW, I'll have to keep that in mind, I did find that my cousin's local friend that has quite a bit of experience with Haltech, I'm gonna talk with him see if he has any suggestions...
z284pwr, I really don't know.  But GM V6 and V8 will take well up into the 30*'s  of advance at part throttle cruize.  I just pull the sparkplug and look to see if the carbon is blown off or not.  Remember the sparkplugs are the window to the inside of the engine.

With software like Diacom or Autotap you should be able to map your stock engine under all conditions.

[TurboGTU]

Whow...OK...I kinda skemed through it.  Too much stuff at one time.

Congrats on the project. And welcome to the fun club...
Well we know now that the stock pump can only pull out around 200hp. But it also depends if its the OE or a cheap replacement pump.

A 190 or 255 walbro will do. And on fuel presure and injector flow. It is recomended to stick with the injectors manufactures recomended fuel presure. If you add too much presure...the injectors will have a hard time opening or cause an uneven spray. If you go too low of a presure...You could have air going into the fuel system form boosted air or an uneven spray pattern. You should stick with a set fuel pressure after you get your new fuel pump and stick with it. It will make life easy on you.

And its funny how those SC work. The more pressure you have...the lower power you have down low..but the top end is strong. The lower the pressure the stronger the low end gets.
Got to love that power pour on.

[Norm 88GT]

A few pics of the 255 Walboro from

http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com

Thanks for Scott for the direction.  It was about $100 for the pump and GM install kit.  Unfortunately with 16 years of winter road salt the lines to drop the tank were fused.  Even with a liberal dosage of PBlaster only the recently changed fuel filter would give.  I ended up cutting a hole in the floor pan after the tank was dropped about 8 inches.  I also had the cut the exhaust off to drop the tank, I will not be able to separate the fuel pump and exhaust installations.  

The pump was pretty much drop in with no major changes except for splicing a new pigtail to accomodate the new pump.  I also installed a new sending unit to tank O-ring.

Here is a few pics.

[Chazzman]

So, hows it working out for ya? Or is it too early to tell....

[Norm 88GT]

Chazzman, I am doing the exhaust right now.  The Midas(emergency repalcement) cat and cat-back was 2" but down to 1.5" ID in the bends.  I am making a 2.5" with mandrel bends from the down pipe back.  Here are a few pics:

[bonecrrusher]

Wow Norm talk about an extreme mod there...

I hope your going to have that rewelded and put back in place?

I like the exhaust, tell us where you got the bends from.

[Norm 88GT]

Quote (bonecrrusher @ April 26 2004,14:22)Wow Norm talk about an extreme mod there...

I hope your going to have that rewelded and put back in place?

I like the exhaust, tell us where you got the bends from.
www.jcw.com for the piping.  It is just plain steel.

[Chazzman]

What muffler are you going with?

[Norm 88GT]

DynoMax Super Turbo.  I have used them the last couple of times.  Good tone, flow, and good price.