Beretta 2017 Autocross Spec D-prepared

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Re: Chevy Beretta FF

Postby themixer » Wed Feb 15, 2017 2:59 pm

take all that weight out and then you want to add a spoiler !?



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Re: Chevy Beretta FF

Postby Amateur » Wed Feb 15, 2017 4:10 pm

^^ It' doesn't actually produce any down force. It's a roof vane that should actually direct airflow downward in theory or just be purely cosmetic lol. I did take a few semesters in mechanical engineering but never pursued it. The Beretta rear profile is not very good in terms of basic aerodynamics since it has a steep rake and short tail. I will be putting an actual down force producing spoiler on the decklid though so I thought maybe this would help it with turbulence reduction. Maybe somebody can chime in?

Anywho, I've decided to pursue a more extreme lightweight hood by making one from scratch using fiberglass! I haven't glassed in about 6 years so we'll see how this turns out.
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Re: Chevy Beretta FF

Postby Amateur » Thu Feb 16, 2017 1:50 pm

YES! I'm a little rusty but I managed to make an entire hood from scratch. There were a few air bubbles that I sanded out and I still need to patch 'em and put some reinforcement underneath. Best part? This thing only weighs 5 lbs so far versus the 40 lbs the original steel one weighed. I still got it ;)

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I still have to do a little more fiberglassing, a little bondo, trimming, and painting. But looks good!



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Re: Chevy Beretta FF

Postby whiteretta » Thu Feb 16, 2017 9:18 pm

Holy crap that's impressive!

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Re: Chevy Beretta FF

Postby Money pit Beretta » Fri Feb 17, 2017 7:47 am

Well that was a shock. Sure didn't see that coming! Looks like you still have the ability to work with fiberglass. What happened? Did you drop it and make some holes?


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Re: Chevy Beretta FF

Postby MY91GT(Z) » Sat Feb 18, 2017 9:49 pm

Ummm u could make more of them hoods n make some monies


93 GT cammed 3500 EP LSD, headers,intake,wilwood,poly/delrin mounts, 2.5 S.S,Exhaust,dickman kits,GTUspoiler,Euro headlights-tails-mirrors-fender flares-spoiler,Intrax/Koni,91+blk interior,rr disk swap,s.s.clutch line

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Re: Chevy Beretta FF

Postby Amateur » Mon Feb 20, 2017 3:01 pm

Well that was a shock. Sure didn't see that coming! Looks like you still have the ability to work with fiberglass. What happened? Did you drop it and make some holes?

Yeah, it's been awhile since I've worked with the stuff, so there was some air within the layers. I sanded them out, some of them, all the way through so that I can start fresh and level with the fiberglass patching to make it new again.

Ummm u could make more of them hoods n make some monies

This is probably a one off for me. You can actually buy a fiberglass one from USBody if you wanted to right now http://www.usbodysource.com/. I'm sure their fitment and construction quality is going to be a lot better since I believe they use reinforcement mat material in their construction which is pretty neat. It starts at $350-$550 depending if you want a bolt on or one that uses OEM latches.

I just doing it myself because I'd like to save a few hundred bucks plus it helps me better my techniques ( I got to practice lol).
I might do a hybrid setup where I uses the back hinges but run some stealth hoodpins up front. I also just put another fiberglass layer down underneath to help strengthen it today, I'm probably at $75 in right now with this project. My first race isn't until April so I have some time.

I was also watching a documentary about the Audi Quattro and what do you know, we got Beretta's in the video!
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Screw you other car!
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Re: Chevy Beretta FF

Postby Money pit Beretta » Tue Feb 21, 2017 7:31 pm

Dang....sorry that you had to repeat yourself. Will try harder to read and not skip down to the photos.

Just a thought: could use some sort of drip rail on the side glass to keep the rain from pooling on the top. That is what the old rubber strip was for.


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Re: Chevy Beretta FF

Postby Amateur » Thu Apr 13, 2017 8:22 pm

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What's up y'all. It's been awhile! My car looked like this for the longest time:
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I was going to get the paint professionally done until I lost my job like a month ago. I worked for Macy's annnnnnd they closed down my store so plans have changed since I need that money for staying alive. Looks like it's another year of Rustoleum spray cans!
I'm like 95% done with my 2017 spec Autocross car.
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Most notable changes is I spray painted the car and wheels white now. I also put a bigger face hole to get maximum cooling.

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I will be painting those internal guts black to "hide" them.
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Also I put on some fiberglass fender flares that I got from EBay from some dude in the Ukraine.
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You'll notice I have those orange things under it's eyes. It's just a tribute I did off of a grassroots team that ran the 24 hours of thunderhill. It was an article I read back in 2010 that I thoroughly enjoyed. They had a Nissan Sentra with matching livery.
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You'll notice I have bumper canards in the front now.
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This should provide a little front downforce from the high pressure it will create up there. Other than that, the next step would be a full on front splitter
I made them from scratch using what you see here:
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I still have some odds and ends to wrinkle out but progress is being made on the racecar.
Also I put back the OEM hood. I'm going to daily drive this for like a month and would like the added practicality of a hinge.



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Re: Beretta 2017 Autocross Spec D-prepared

Postby Dostom » Sun Jun 11, 2017 1:24 am

I don't know whether to post here or create my own thread, but I am the new owner of this beretta, since owning it for about a month, I've put in a racing seat, harness, new spoiler, did some touch ups and installed a front tow strap, I have big plans for this car, it will continue to be an autocross car and maybe more! I love this thing, and the history behind it, I've only had it for about a month so I haven't had a chance to do much, but I have big plans
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(I've added a 2000 mustang spoiler, did some paint touch ups, restored the badge and removed some duct tape)



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Re: Beretta 2017 Autocross Spec D-prepared

Postby 3X00-Modified » Mon Jun 12, 2017 9:55 am

No problem with keeping the info in this thread :) it only makes sense.



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Re: Beretta 2017 Autocross Spec D-prepared

Postby Money pit Beretta » Tue Jun 13, 2017 8:16 pm

Turn signals going back in? Extra support for the lip coming too?


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Re: Beretta 2017 Autocross Spec D-prepared

Postby Dostom » Fri Jun 16, 2017 11:17 am

Definitely want to add some extra support for the front lip, was also thinking of doing a front splitter, have a template mocked up from my last Beretta so I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to make one,
As for the turn signals, they were in when I bought the car thankfully
Last edited by Dostom on Sat Jun 17, 2017 12:12 am, edited 1 time in total.



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Re: Beretta 2017 Autocross Spec D-prepared

Postby Dostom » Fri Jun 16, 2017 11:28 am

front tow strap is on the car, I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to mount the front splitter, as for the back the next thing I'm going to do is space the trunk to sit flush, since it's bolted on it sits lower, and I'm sure that's why he removed the back panel, i'm getting a "new one", fixing the fitment and putting it on
Other plans for the car are rear disc brake swap(from a neon), 4 point roll cage so I can safely run a harness(as you can see in this thread it has no airbags, and the door has a crack near the seat belt mounts, id feel safer with a legit harness to go along with my new seat :) )
I'm putting blast pipes on with a magma flow muffler, I had them on my last beretta and i think they look and sound badass(but going from a 3100 to a 2.2 I'm not sure how these sound with exhausts) hopefully I can run a full exhaust at some point soon too
Future plans for the interior are custom lightweight panels, paint, and the roll cage
I also want to lower another inch and get some wider wheels for it
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Last edited by Dostom on Sun Jul 09, 2017 11:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.



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Re: Beretta 2017 Autocross Spec D-prepared

Postby Dostom » Fri Jun 23, 2017 2:15 pm

started prepping for the interior paint, i'm going with a gloss black, hiding all the rust and rough metal, also going to use a "rust" primer because there's way too much rust and it's a cheap and effective option, to avoid having to mask everything off, I found that using a brush works fairly well, so I'm going to give that a shot
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Last edited by Dostom on Sun Jul 09, 2017 11:12 pm, edited 4 times in total.




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