Faq suspension
-
- Registered User
- Posts: 25
- Joined: Mon Apr 30, 2001 1:33 am
- Location: Colorado Springs
- Contact:
Faq suspension
The old one got nuked so make your updates and we will fix it as it goes.
Please post your questions & facts.
I will cut & paste & delete as it goes so it looks nice & clean.
I will try to follow a standard format.
There will also be in the final draft links to about every thing.
#1 Rule use your head and common sense before you post along with the search feature!!
Most parts can be found from Mantapart, RSM, RKsport, Summit Racing, Jegs.
1.What is a sway bar?
What does it do?
Ballances the car. How?
What sway bars are available for the Beretta?
FT
1â€Â
Please post your questions & facts.
I will cut & paste & delete as it goes so it looks nice & clean.
I will try to follow a standard format.
There will also be in the final draft links to about every thing.
#1 Rule use your head and common sense before you post along with the search feature!!
Most parts can be found from Mantapart, RSM, RKsport, Summit Racing, Jegs.
1.What is a sway bar?
What does it do?
Ballances the car. How?
What sway bars are available for the Beretta?
FT
1â€Â
- spacecadetz26
- Registered User
- Posts: 578
- Joined: Thu May 10, 2001 9:33 am
- Location: Rockford, IL
- Contact:
Faq suspension
Here is some good info I found.
HANDLING CHART
UNDERSTEER
Too large front bar vs rear sway bar
Too small front tires or narrow rim width
Heavy front weight bias
Narrow front track
Too stiff front springs
Low front tire pressure
Oversize rear tires
Steep roll axis
OVERSTEER
Too large rear vs front sway bar
Raised rear end
Undersized tires or narrow rims
Low rear tire pressure
Large rear overhang
Too stiff rear springs
REAR BREAK-AWAY
Stiff springs and/or shocks on rough corners
Excessive rear overhang
No rear sway bar to equal road shock between rear wheels
High tire pressure
SLIDE
Too much speed for conditions
Tire compound or tire design
EXCESSIVE BODY ROLL
High center of gravity (CG)
Sway bar(s) too small
Narrow track
Overloaded springs and shocks
ADHESION LOSS
Too stiff spring(s)
Narrow tire contact patch
Too high tire pressure
Too stiff shocks
WHEEL HOP
Poor shocks
Worn suspension bushings
No traction bars
No rear sway bar
WHEEL LIFT
Poor weight distribution
Steep roll axis
Too small a sway bar on opposite end of car
HIGHWAY WANDER
Play in steering
Incorrect alignment
Large "sail" area such as the side of an SUV
Rear wheel steer
Worn shocks and suspension bushings
Wrong size or no sway bar(s)
BOTTOMING
Overloaded springs
Worn shocks
Lack of suspension travel
HIGH SPEED INSTABILITY
Aerodynamic lift
Soft shocks
Light sway bar(s)
HANDLING CHART
UNDERSTEER
Too large front bar vs rear sway bar
Too small front tires or narrow rim width
Heavy front weight bias
Narrow front track
Too stiff front springs
Low front tire pressure
Oversize rear tires
Steep roll axis
OVERSTEER
Too large rear vs front sway bar
Raised rear end
Undersized tires or narrow rims
Low rear tire pressure
Large rear overhang
Too stiff rear springs
REAR BREAK-AWAY
Stiff springs and/or shocks on rough corners
Excessive rear overhang
No rear sway bar to equal road shock between rear wheels
High tire pressure
SLIDE
Too much speed for conditions
Tire compound or tire design
EXCESSIVE BODY ROLL
High center of gravity (CG)
Sway bar(s) too small
Narrow track
Overloaded springs and shocks
ADHESION LOSS
Too stiff spring(s)
Narrow tire contact patch
Too high tire pressure
Too stiff shocks
WHEEL HOP
Poor shocks
Worn suspension bushings
No traction bars
No rear sway bar
WHEEL LIFT
Poor weight distribution
Steep roll axis
Too small a sway bar on opposite end of car
HIGHWAY WANDER
Play in steering
Incorrect alignment
Large "sail" area such as the side of an SUV
Rear wheel steer
Worn shocks and suspension bushings
Wrong size or no sway bar(s)
BOTTOMING
Overloaded springs
Worn shocks
Lack of suspension travel
HIGH SPEED INSTABILITY
Aerodynamic lift
Soft shocks
Light sway bar(s)
- IsaacHayes
- Registered User
- Posts: 975
- Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 8:32 pm
- Location: Missouri
Faq suspension
Correction: the addco bar will bolt up to a 1994 no problem. The rear only changed in 95-96.
My 94-96 control arm vertical rear bushings are failing. How do I replace them without buying new control arms?
1) Take the control arm off (un-do balljoint, and bolts on the front and rear bushings). Replace ball-joint if it's worn or you damaged it taking off the control arm. You'll have to drill out the rivets and then bolt in the replacement if it's never been replaced.
2) Take a saw-zaw or tool of choice and cut out the rear veritcal mount rubber so the center falls out. Now clean it up and you'll see a metal ring is press fitted into the control arm. Carefully take a hack-saw or saw-zaw (might need to just use the blade by hand from a hacksaw to get in there) and cut the ring. Now take a punch/chisel and hammer and tap the ring out. Now get a dremel or sand paper and clean up the control arm.
3) Get the new bushing remembering where the orientation is up/down, and use a large bench vise to press/squeeze the bushing in. Do this by doing one side a little at a time "rocking" it into the control arm. Keep going around the bushing pressing it in the control arm by tightening the vise.
4) Put it back on the car.
I've done this 2 times on my drivers side which always fails the most for some reason. Passenger is stock and still doing fine. The rubber tears out of the metal ring (that's pressed into the control arm). The metal ring doesn't fall out.
My 94-96 control arm vertical rear bushings are failing. How do I replace them without buying new control arms?
1) Take the control arm off (un-do balljoint, and bolts on the front and rear bushings). Replace ball-joint if it's worn or you damaged it taking off the control arm. You'll have to drill out the rivets and then bolt in the replacement if it's never been replaced.
2) Take a saw-zaw or tool of choice and cut out the rear veritcal mount rubber so the center falls out. Now clean it up and you'll see a metal ring is press fitted into the control arm. Carefully take a hack-saw or saw-zaw (might need to just use the blade by hand from a hacksaw to get in there) and cut the ring. Now take a punch/chisel and hammer and tap the ring out. Now get a dremel or sand paper and clean up the control arm.
3) Get the new bushing remembering where the orientation is up/down, and use a large bench vise to press/squeeze the bushing in. Do this by doing one side a little at a time "rocking" it into the control arm. Keep going around the bushing pressing it in the control arm by tightening the vise.
4) Put it back on the car.
I've done this 2 times on my drivers side which always fails the most for some reason. Passenger is stock and still doing fine. The rubber tears out of the metal ring (that's pressed into the control arm). The metal ring doesn't fall out.