Beretta.net

I'm just about at the end of my rope with my car. After replacing the wiring from the crank sensor to the ICM (correcting a mistake I made, anyway.), replacing the new ICM with the one the car came with (the new one never worked) and going so far as replacing the ECM with another one I got from a Beretta, this is what I'm left with; the car starts fine... but stalls out with no warning once the engine warms up. And it won't start again until it cools off. Then, it'll start again as if nothings wrong... only to stall out again after 5 maybe 10 minutes. Any ideas would be helpful. I'll look into the coolant temp sensor, as you suggest, but as I said, I'm losing my patience. Pretty soon, the only decision will not be whether or not to sell it... but to whom and for how much.

Will it idle in neutral and not stall once up to warm operating temperature?

I only thought to do it in park. I can run out right now and start it. I'll put it in neutral and wait until it dies which, I assume, will take about 5 minutes.

Of course, now it won't start at all. I'll give it a few more minutes and try it again. In the meantime, any idea where I can find the coolant temp sensor? Should be easy since I've taken the fan out.

Coolant temp sensor is on the lower intake manifold near the thermostat.

applicable to late gen beretta 2.8 and all beretta 3.1.

Okay, thanks for the updates. I went ahead and swapped out the coolant temp. sensor for a new one. I also found out there was almost NO coolant in the car at all. I refilled it and replaced the thermostat as long as I had it all to do anyway. No change. I'm absolutely out of ideas.

When you replaced all three coil packs & the ignition module, were they NIB at that time or used?

auto or manual?

Okay, the ignition coils were used, but the ignition module was NIB. The module never worked, so I put the original one back. Here's the issue, now; I seemed to have it narrowed down to some type of fuel pressure issue. I start the car and it runs for five minutes or so (until the temp gauge gets to the first mark) then it stalls. It won't start again... until I loosen the fuel-line going into the injectors, let the pressure off, retighten it... and it starts right up and will run for (so far) ten more minutes. Trans is an automatic, btw.

You say you let the pressure off? I'm thinking it is staved for fuel, as in, a clogged fuel filter. Then when you bleed the fuel line,
the clog clears from the back flow of fuel back into the tank. Try finding a way to safely put some fuel into the engine when it is
warm and won't start. If the engine fires, it is not getting fuel. Then maybe all you need is a new fuel filter. BUT,
is there rust in the fuel tank plugging the fuel filter?

Yeah, pressure in a FI system is NEVER a bad thing so releasing it and it starting then doesn't make much sense...

Blocked/pinched return line or gunk in FPR