It all goes downhill at once!

[IsaacHayes]

Well it takes less pressure to clamp down on drums than disc. So even going to a larger disc, you may need to change the pressure proportion between front and rear. Discs look nice in the rear and are easy to change pads, but it's not worth my time at this point. If I get everything in the world done to the car and I'm bored with no other things going on in life, then yeah maybe.. LOL. I'd rather upgrade the fronts though first. I'm going to be shooting for 245mm tires though so pushing the wheels out more is not cool.. GM is still using drums... Going to lunch today I saw drums on a GMC Equinox... LOL

[Barry]

You will need alot of offset in the rear to fit 245's. I had to roll my back fenders pretty hard to get it to not rub, and I still need to go farther. Im not sure of the offset of my wheels though.

[3X00-Modified]

Jon, all pics are taken with a lg phone.

That explains it.

[woody90gtz]

I'm amazed that this rear disc setup works with a stock master cylinder. Caliper pistons generally take more fluid with more pressure to create the brake torque of a wheel cylinder. I know Jon said his worked well and Barry you are having no issues with pedal feel?

[Barry]

I have bad pedal feel, but it has always been like that.

In the base, I can stomp the pedal(very nice and firm) but it will only lock them at very slow speeds. Lock fronts first, then sometimes the backs

In the Z, the pedal feels soft like the lines are full of air. I stomp those and can lock the front wheels EASILY from higher speeds. The rears do not lock however, so I may need to do some looking into brake bias tuning. They are working, just not enough to lock them up on dry(ABS is de-activated right now)
The pedal has always felt crappy, but it does stop very well.

They are small calipers, but look at a wheel cylinder. Its TINY!. So these are not getting used to full potential with the stock brake bias.

But if I had more rear brake its possible my car would be wrapped around a pole right now.

[Barry]

Jon has larger capacity front calipers, so in theory that should make his rear bias stronger.

The track opens this friday. Its possible I will make some passes this weekend.

The only changes to the car since last season is the rear disks, new tires, valve springs, and a normal person exhaust. I still have the cherry bomb in there along with the muffler so thats gotta hurt.

13's? probably not. I would just like to match my 14.10 @98

[weba]

I believe I'm the one running biggest capacity calipers after Nocut, my brakes were dynoed at the inspection and the balance was just perfect with the stock master cylinder and else, i have the dyno numbers posted on my topic i think. Anyhow the braking power test didn't provide that impressive Numbers on the dyno before the tires started to lock up and slip, thats a bit of mystery but has many possible explanations, Anyhow white car requires about 1/3 to 1/4 of pedal travel to provide same slowing power than the black car, it grips like hell, Tho my brakes are not that much used yet, it will adjust in time.

And, in case any of you are still running rubber brake lines, swap to SS ones, i could not believe the difference it made with my stock (GreenStuffs and thicker 90 discs) braked W26 pedal feel, now it's on my must-do list for every L-body Tho it has the 92+ Fe7 brake hose setup witch is quite long.

[3X00-Modified]

SS lines all the way baby!

And my calipers up front are changing this year... going down to GA ones.

[Barry]

This week I knocked out a good bit of work.
Put interior back together after latest shift cable swap.
Fixed ABS for the millionth time (this time it was a rear hub)
Dropped 60 bucks on fluids (RP 5w-30 and syncromesh)
FINALLY installed rear sway bar that Pat gave me probably 2 years ago?
Went over entire engine bay checking to make sure everything is solid.

However, like usual, there is always something going bad. Now its a front wheel bearing(driver side).

These new tires are unreal. I cant even spin first anymore. No joke, 65 degree weather and I cant spin first. They are SO soft. The tread is actually deforming slightly from accelerating. The compound is so soft that I smell rubber on a 1-2 chirp. These tires are not going to last long I can tell. The thing I do not like about them is the extreme tread depth that they have. It makes them feel very sluggish in corners. This will get better as they wear however.

These will pull my 2.0's at the track I'm sure of it. I can do a pussy launch on the street from 2k rpms and they will not spin all the way up to red line. Its INSANE.

I also need new front brake pads. I am happy with my powerslot/greenstuff setup I have currently. I may see if there is anything better pad wise though. It doesn't matter how long they last really, the car may see less than 10k miles in the next 5 years with college and all.

[3400beretta]

What tires Barry?

[woody90gtz]

I'd like to know as well. I'm buying tires next week probably.

[3X00-Modified]

Page 17 has the tires.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... eModel=HRi

[Barry]

^^ those in 225/45/r17. On a 7 inch wide rim.

There just nuts. I think the insane tread depth gives them the straight line traction. The pieces of tread are so long that they flex a lot making them absorb imperfections in the road.

My thoughts are as they wear(which will be very quick) that cornering will get better, as straight line traction decreases. The insane deep tread has something to do with it.

[woody90gtz]

No crap! Those are the tires I just pulled off Tiffany's Subaru (she had an alignment issue). From what I've been told mismatched tires is bad for the AWD.

I was thinking about cheaping out and putting them on my Beretta. I could just buy a pair for the front and be good to go. They did dead hook at Bfest but I was attributing that to the AWD and lack of torque. hahaha

[Barry]

I have a pair of them in 235/45/17 you can have for free. They are good for a little while more. Probably one a few hundred miles and they wont pass inspection.