It all goes downhill at once!

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Thu Dec 16, 2010 8:57 pm

Got some work done on the beretta this weekend.

I put timkin bearings in the back of it. Did an alignment. Took me like 2 hours, shimming the rear end is a pain in the ass.

Specs are:

-1 camber in rear, 0 toe
Front is -1.2 camber, 0 toe, and caster is what it is.

Then I put a set of 235/45/17 tires up front and they actually fit without rubbing... BUT I dont have a driver side inner fender. Also put a new set of rear tires on it to but there 225/45/17.

It feels really good to have a car thats solid again and drives straight down the road. The 235 and 225 tire setup is pretty good too, the car is much more balanced now with slight tendancy to oversteer when letting off the gas mid corner.

Ditched my speaker amp and ran all the speakers off the headunit

Now I guess its time to take my front lip off so it dosent get ripped off in the snow like it did last year....

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Thu Dec 16, 2010 9:33 pm

The Stang lip?
I thought all you had to do on the rear is turn the dials. That's how I did it on my 90GT. Oops that was for toe out. That did help some though on the tight turns. I'd have to look up what it was set at. That is if I kept the info after the loss. I'd bet like my little one(it was my first small car and my love)....it's gone.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Thu Dec 16, 2010 10:09 pm

Turn the dials? You mean like a EZshim between the hub and the axle?

Money pit Beretta · Post by **Money pit Beretta** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 6:56 am

Yeah.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 8:07 am

Last time I checked the only way to adjust toe or camber in the rear is to shim where the bearing mounts to the axle... OR bend the axle... There are no adjustment bolts anywhere to my knowledge back there.

With a solid axle and only two mounting points to the body and no trailing arms, it leaves you with no way to adjust it.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 8:39 am

http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR/SP ... cmd2=75200

Thats how you do it. Hunter racks have the whole algorithim built in. Enter our desired specs, measure current specs, and you can print out a template that shows where to cut the shim. it works sweeeeet

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 3:24 pm

Thats what I thought, I've never heard of adjuster bolts for our rear.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Fri Dec 17, 2010 8:09 pm

You could change toe on both wheels by shifting the axle with concentric bolts on the mounts, but it will only work if both wheels are off the same amount in the same direction.

For anyone getting a alignment, make sure they print you a spec sheet afterwards. Most people will be really pissed if they have to align the rear of our cars, but its the only way to do it. You can play with the front numbers to make the car drive straight but to do it perfect you need shims.

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 8:10 am

Most of the time though, unless the cars been hit or you've modified something drastic, the rear should be within spec.

Barry · Post by **Barry** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 12:41 pm

... or when somebody didnt have your neon caliper bracket mounted perfect in the mill like mine

Post by **3X00-Modified** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 7:05 pm

lol, yeah that too

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It all goes downhill at once!

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