Beretta.net

The 245s require the perfect offset, and even then they rub on the fenders on some harder bumps. You can get away with around a 10mm range with the 225s.

Not sure of how much of an upgrade it would be, but later model J-bodies have 9" rear drums.

Yes, that is the correct tire size for an 18" wheel.

You could always go hydroboost to get some more wiper motor clearance...

If I wanted to go this route, the first place I would go for engine mounts would be a 1992-1993 3300 N-Body. The 3300 is a 90 degree V6 like the 3800.

The Sunfire would most likely have had the Isuzu trans.

There is one of those bearings on eBay right now.

This could be a good thing for you. If her car is modified, then all the guys might assume that "it's her boyfriends car".

I doubt the 95-05 J-Body Konis that much more harsh (if at all) than the Beretta specific versions. My GT (on eibachs) and Mike's GTZ (on sprints) pretty well ride like a buckboard. Both are equipped with the Beretta-Specific Konis on all 4 corners.

That's a crazy amount of money to fix a TCC problem. The TCC is a bit difficult to get to, but it's only around $30 in parts to properly fix it.

The Ecotec has about as little vibration as you can get in a 4-cylinder. I had solid urethane mounts on the trans and engine of my Alero and it was only noticeable at idle. The Quad while good at having HP is almost the definition of NVH.

Is that torque strut shorter than the original? It should be bolted through the "M" hole not the "A" hole unless you have the incorrect engine mount.

Nope, the NPP was (and still is) optional.

If you have spark then the ignition module is receiving a signal from the crank sensor.

1988GTU wrote:2.2L pump will support a stock 2.8/3.1/3100/3400 no problem. IIRC, the flow rate is the same or real close to the 3.1 V6 pump.

Only if it's a MPFI. A 2.0/2.2 TBI (87-91) pump would only see 20 or so PSI if you're lucky.

Well, you could measure....