Beretta.net

Okay, so I finally got around to the pressure test (been tied up with some MAJOR home repair problems the past few weeks, sorry for just disappearing like that): 41 PSI at the rail with the engine off, down to 36 at idle.  My service manual says that both these values are acceptable (on the low side...

Sorry SCB, I appreciate everyone's time here and I surely don't mean to leave anyone hanging - it actually turns out that the buddy with the pressure gauge is out of state for a wedding; he should be back in a couple days, I'll definitely get back with some results once I can get them.

My first thought was fuel too, but I figured that would cause a more continuous problem...good suggestion though, I'll see if I can scrounge up a pressure tester this weekend.  Thanks for the reply!

Ok Guys, Having a strange driveability issue with my '94 (Base, 3100/4T60E) that I could use some input on: When I attempt to accelerate right after putting the car in gear, it stumbles and bucks like it's not getting enough gas, then smooths right out after 10-15 seconds.  It starts right up and id...

A little late to this party, but thought I might contribute my $.02 (been through this once on my own Beretta, and several times with other FWD GMs that use the same basic design): * The front control arm bushing is easy enough to do with a balljoint press - mine (which seems to be the "standar...

Does anyone have a good sense of how much "give" these bushings should have?  With both rear wheels off the ground, I can get a good 1/4" of rearward deflection on each side with a pry bar and not a whole lot of effort (looking at the replacement part, I figure that's probably way too...

Will do - gonna be a couple months though, looks like winter's finally here in the northeast  

Thanks for the advice, guys...and yeah, I figured any non-original master cylinder would require some adapting, etc.  The MC from a '94 Grand Prix appears to be made from the same casting and should bolt right up - my only concern is that the GP is 4-wheel disc and about 500lbs heavier than the Bere...

Just going over my '94 to make sure she's ready for inspection, and I've realized that my brake fluid is nearly black - I'm planning on power-bleeding the whole system in the spring, but with that much crap in the lines, I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience using some kind of a solvent to ...

Ah, missed the comment about the swap...sorry!

On my '94, that disconnected metal line is connected to the transmission modulator valve (they went to the 3100 in '94, so the setup is slightly different).  Your transmission won't shift right without that input, and you'll tear the bands up...

My '94 had the leaking problem as well, though it was on the passenger's side for me (right down the front of the ECM...lovely...)  I fixed it by resealing the joints in the cowl under the vent panel (the black plastic panel that the wiper arms come through...obviously, you have to remove the arms t...

Well, found out where the vibration is coming from...it's actually in the rear, I convinced myself that it was in the front because it seemed to be transmitting through the wheel, so I spent all my time up there...both rear tires are cupped on the inside edges, pretty bad on the driver's side but on...

It's an automatic, and actually I have begun to notice what I assume is a little bit of converter shudder around 50 MPH, under light to moderate load (168k on this car, so it's not that surprising) - I don't think it's related though, this "mystery noise" is noticeable at very low speeds, ...

Yep, a nice skinny 14" does a lot for handling in the snow - I have a set from an old Caravan (go ahead and laugh, I did - but seriously, that 100mm bolt circle comes on a lot of FWDs).  The stock 15" 205's are awesome on dry pavement (well, stock for the GT alloys, anyway...3100-95 is rig...