Beretta.net

Well, the dealer told me what I thought, the EBCM is bad. Or so they think. They aren't 100% sure, which is disappointing, seeing as it is a $1200 repair.  I don't suppose anyone has one lying around for a 96 Beretta?

Well, after a month of working brakes (without ABS) the pedal went soft again today. I went through the diag. for the ABS code, 64: Rear motor circuit open, and everything tested fine. If everything tested fine, then the flow chart I had suggested to replace the EBCM. I'm wondering if the locked up ...

Sorry, I guess that came off as I didn't know what the solenoid did, as opposed to the fact that it's an emission related part, which I don't particularly care about, as long as the car runs fine. Your explanation was adequate. Thanks.

Wow, that really means a lot to me... Eh, now at least it's doing what it's supposed to, maybe now I'll be saving a few trees, or maybe it's more like killing less.

Well, it took me a few weeks, but I finally got around to the junkyard to figure this one out. I know, I'm lazy. It connector plugs into a sensor or something on a vacuum line that runs behind the engine. Whatever it plugs into is right below the coil packs. I have no idea if that is actually going ...

Look through previous posts on this topic. There are a few places that sell kits, but they are costly, and some will tell you they are of shoddy manufacture. The alternative is to grab parts off an older Neon with disc brakes and to do a little bit of fabricating.

Some cars do have pipes within pipes, mainly for heat management, but I'm not sure if that's the case with our downpipes. Anyways, if it is, there isn't really an effective way to get the inner pipe out, due to the fact that there's a bend in it. You'd be better off just replacing the entire unit. K...

Eventually, I took the car to the dealer and had them bleed it. They managed to get a pedal, and get fluid coming out of both calipers. Unfortunatly, the rear ABS motor is locked up, so there was no bleeding the rear, and the ABS light is on. The dealer wasn't very forthcoming with info, can that mo...

I'm still trying to locate a scanner that has the capabilities to do it, the shop next door has one that I might be able to borrow. What exactly is the procedure for bleeding it with the scan tool?

As of yet I'm not sure it has happened, I've been gone for a week. But I'll find out tomorrow, and hopefully get it done. Thanks.

A friend of a coworker is actually coming by today. Apparently he's encountered this problem before, and you have to hook up a scan tool and either fully open the ABS valves or close them, but hopefully it should be resolved by the end of the day.

i took off the master cylinder today and bench bled it, and everything came out fine. I then attached the ABS unit and the beeder screws bled fine. But when I hooked everything back up in the car, it did the same thing where the rear bleeder would push fluid out for the first few times, but then not...

Yeah, I tried that, same story.

Nothing too significant I think. But if you're about to put an engine in, why not up to a 3400? You could pick one up and rebuild it yourself for about a grand. Or, if you want a 3100, I got one already stripped and cleaned that needs new rod bearings...

Thanks. I actually just finished pulling the engine apart today. Turns out the rod bearings were bad.