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Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 10:38 am
by 1988GTU
Shims for? What are you modding?
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 6:55 pm
by Money pit Beretta
Rear wheel bearing full shims. A bit of camber sure helps in the turns, even just around a corner. Swear I had over one degree on my 90GT and it didn't look crazy. Must be the 15's vs 16's or that the 90 was lower or both. But again I will say 1.5 is too much.
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 12:05 pm
by Money pit Beretta
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 12:08 pm
by Money pit Beretta
As you can see it is just crazy looking! I've got it down to 3/4 now and think that 1/2(.5 degree) would have been fine.
No way that I was going to try and pull the brake lines(too much rust). Had to cut the top off the shims to get them in. Then they became slip in shims and still are full contact.
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 8:32 pm
by Money pit Beretta
Going to up date this in a way. Gave up and took the car to the shop for control arms. Just didn't feel like I could do it. Lucky for me I did, the rear bolt on the drivers side was rusted to the bushing. The shop had to cut the control arm and then the bushing. Damn glad I bought the whole control arms and not just the bushings and ball joints!
Bad thing was that the front bolt on the driver's side was not tight when I got it back. Last weekend that was solved. Hope the frame didn't get too hogged out, there was some nasty popping. As of now the only noise is coming from the "dead" frame to sway bushings. If everything works out(and so far it has not) I'll be getting a 30mm bar from SGR. No problems with him, just think someone snagged his money order before he got it.
So new bushings will be bought for the 30mm and I'm back to the bolts again.
Anyone got any spare control arm bolts? Might be a good idea to have some.
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 4:44 pm
by 1988GTU
You have the vertical style for rear CA bushing, correct?
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 7:10 pm
by Money pit Beretta
Yes I do. Going to the JY is a crap shoot because most L's will have the same problem around here.
Seems to have started popping again. Will check this Friday to be sure. May have to buy a washer and hope that solves it.
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 7:26 pm
by 1988GTU
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2015 7:19 am
by Money pit Beretta
Thank you for taking the time to look that up. Man Nalley wants a lot for one bolt!
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2015 2:21 pm
by 1988GTU
$7.35 was lowest I found yesterday. Highest was over $20 ea. .....
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2015 8:01 pm
by Money pit Beretta
Ouch, I spoke too soon!
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 6:49 pm
by Money pit Beretta
Everything is fine and the 30mm bar will be on it's way.
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 4:26 pm
by ErichZ26
3X00-Modified wrote:I did those ES brackets for a while... Had to cut and trim them down to fit then just use some 3/8 short bolts to hold them down... Stainless of course. I'm actually putting back in stock u-bolt hardware with stock style ES bushings.
Those bolts should be grade 8 bolts to hold those brackets down. Stainless does not have the strength. The U bracket is actually a higher strength piece of steel over let's say a muffler U bolt clamp.
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 8:45 pm
by 1988GTU
/\ Good points Erich. Epoxy coating the grade 8 bolts with "aluminum" color epoxy might be an option should you want to keep it lookin stainless steel.
Re: U bolt for frame to swaybar bushing
Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2015 7:08 am
by Money pit Beretta
Good info there.
Grade 8 it is then.
Nothing done on this as of yet. New Accel coils are on to replace faulty MSD's, radiator, condenser and a Denso O2(that really helped). Had to tighten the control arm bolts on the drivers side. They were popping and grinding. Wash and wax. New water pump pulley(old one rusted real bad). Brake check and caliper bolt greasing also done.