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ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!. the 3400 is in and running like a dream. i can't beleive how smothley it went. i'ld have it out tonight but i broke the nipple on the power steering box but everything else was cake.  and yes i guess grabber green is a little to rice. hmmm maybe i'll stick with black.   cant wait to get one the road and test it out. should be quite nice.

Good job. Did you tap the lower intake manifold for the coolant pipe thing?
So you need a new powersteering rack or pump??? If its the pump, you should have a spare right?

Did you re-use your exhaust manifolds? I take it you got new gaskets for them.
Next up is some nice mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust, CAI, and UDP! Then you'll really have some fun.

Tommorow I'm headed to the junkyard to try and find some 3.1L EGR base and pipe to adapt my EGR to my 3500 plenum. I'll grind on the plenum some too.

i didnt have to tap anything. if your talking about my heater core line. i just cut a little off of the existing line and used a peice of heater hose with clamps. it worked out just fine. i've been driving her around a little today no hicups except for a ses light for the cam position but i think that just cleared itself out. because i turned the car off then drove somemore and nothing.  im going to keep an eye on it. about the CIA, there was a guy on here selling some pretty nice setups but i cant remember his name. or even where i saw it.   i dont think he had one with the mass airflow tho... things coulda changed by now.i was thinking about getting the motor tuned professionally but i have know idea where to look.  the car is noticabley quicker all the way around, but the damned automatic trans is holding it back i can tell. i shoulda just did a 5 speed swap.  well gotta leave something for next time i guess. and i needed a pump, and no i didnt have a spare the new motor didnt have that or a alternator. but i managed with mine. dont flame me im not familiar with all the initials whats UDP?

Can you post pics of the heatercore thing? everyone is talkign about it like it's easy but I have no clue what they are talking about. I got my 3400 lower in today, and it's threaded (1997) so it's all good, but I'd still like to know for future reference.

http://www.tranzgenic.com/ Maybe the guys. Stencil sound familiar? Works with MAF. I'm going to do a custom PVC (want to do ABS as it takes the heat better than PVC, but cant find any). Why? because I'm cheap.

UDP= Under drive pulley. http://www.fastfwdperformance.com/

Did you leave the cam sensor in that came with the 3400? You should have. Was the code cam or crank? If you haven't replaced your O2 sensor in a while, you should do so, I replaced my 180k one (I know, I know) and fuel economy is up, and it's running less rich and boy that makes a ton more power. Flooring it from 2nd at 40mph (which stays in 2nd) pulls really hard now! It used to barely pull at all. And it doesn't kick out of overdrive on the highway going up medium hills anymore! The computer builds the fuel tables and calculates for WOT based off of those. WOT doesn't read/adjust for the O2 sensor, but if your running rich all the time (like me) the tables will be wrong and when it goes WOT it won't predict what it needs right.

WOT=wide open throttle = flooring it. Just in case.

Now you need to put on a 3500 plenum like I'm doing.   You lucky ba**rd you have a 96 so you can just bolt up the 2000 grand am EGR to it without making an adapter. And since you have a 3400 complete, you don't have rocker arm rockers like I do causing me to grind on my lower intake... Plus you got .3 more displacement, better heads/valves.. arg. Maybe you shouldn't go any farther. De-mod now, no exhaust, no UDP. That will make me feell better. Yep.  

lol. de mod my a**... anyway i didnt replace the cam sensor i know im an idiot but it tok a crap i have a sputtering problem at low rpm i'm guessing thats my problem since thats the code. i'll have to get a new one.  and i also have a power steering leak grrrrrrrrrrrr. lets hope it isnt the rack... it didnt leack before so im guessing i got a bad pump from the yard. and i think i might replace my o2 sensor that would free up power right even if its not sending a code just because its old it should be a bit better.

yes, mine never set a code, but was running really rich. I smelled raw gas out the exhaust and I even have a cat on here. Since the computer is reading the O2, and it says incorrectly it needs more fuel, and the computer gives it more, it has no way of double checking that. It just does what the O2 sensor says. I get better gas mileage, and it really pulls me back into the seat even in this hot weather!!! Only time it would throw a code is if the sensor was WAY off or stopped reading at all. But if it's incorrectly reading, the computer has no way to tell.

I recommend going to sparkplugs.com and getting the DENSO OEM replacment. It's cheap at $45 shipped and they are super durable (lasts long time). I hear GM switched to Denso brand now anyways.

Your cam position sensor is related to fueling and not spark, without it it will run on basic maps (probably runs mpfi mode). So it will run, but not optimal. You very likely could have damaged the pigtail on the sensor or it's just bad. I hear they are fragile but I've worked around mine 2x. You can remove them without taking off the manifolds, and then route it differently when you put the new one in. Since you'll have the powersteering pump off, that gives you more room.

Oh and be sure to get the sensor for hte same year 3400 of course. If a new sensor still doesn't fix it, then something else is wrong and we can go from there.

OH yeah, your leak may just be o-rings on the pipes that go to the powersteering pump since you changed it.. Or you might just have air in the system...

i dont think the power steering pump has an o ring does it??? one screw in line (pressure) and the other just a clamp (return). the cam senser is throwing a code P0341 i believe.  perf range or something to that effect. the car does run just pretty crappy at times. it would be nice to not have to get a new pump im gonna have to check all the lines probably while its running. and its verry possible i have air in the lines. ummm. i guess u would fill it to the full line then run the car with the cap off keep turning the wheel repeat?? let me know on that please. another thing i hear u can supercharge these beasts that'ld be nice... but first i want to beef up the suspension a bit. u think a 94 z26 would have the better suspension. what is it fe3 or 7 something like that.

Yes,  it's pretty hard I heard to get all the air out. You gotta have it running and move it lock to lock lots of times. Check a chiltons repair manual for the procedure. If you think your're leaking because it's low or feels weird, you probably just have air in it or need to add more still. I don't know if having the cap off would cause it to spray everywhere while running.

There should be an o-ring somehwere on the screw on part. I can't see why it wouldn't have something to that affect.

Z26 will have FE2, or FE3, 3 being better. You have a 96, so get teh addco bar (search) and mod your axle to take it. Heavywoody has it, check out his stuff. Best springs are FE7, but I hear there are differences in FE7 depending on if it came from a 4cyl or not. (there are gtz 3.1l, rare though).

I have FE3 Z26 springs, and all new struts, strut mount, shocks, etc and it's nice. Shocks/struts are a little softer now. They are monroe sensitracs. But they were cheap. I also suggest putting on a strut tower brace, (see the FAQ), helps a ton. And a larger FE3 front sway bar. That should help a lot.

Also you will need 16" wheels with 7" width and 205/55/16 or  225/50/16 tires to take advantage of the suspension. 14" wheels with the high sidewall tires and skinnny tires will hold you back.

RSM makes a vortech supercharger kit, but I hear they are having problems/going out buisness/cutting back or something.

If you buy the addco front bar and lower your car you need to shorten up your endlinks to around 1" spacing... cant use the stock ones because the bar will hit the axle clamps that hold the boots on... you may need 1 1/4 spacing if you stick with stock ride height.  Rule of thumb is to keep the mounting points on the bar and the control arm parallel... that will yeild the best performance, and handling.

thanx guys, well i just realized im a complete idoit.... i just spent 40 dollars non refundable and realized that my cam sensor was unplugged. go on flame on.  

Hey, if you haven't used, take it back. Try to get a refund or store credit. If you haven't put it in your car and used it, then I don't see them as denying your refund. I mean I've taken back a cam sensor when I figured out my problem was spark related. Electronics are non-refundable once you use them. If you didn't use it I think you'll be fine. Just explain to them what happened.

I won't flame you, but I will laugh!!

I take that it runs great now? hahahah..

yep she's back on track but, power steering is still leaking.  i think its not a line it looks like the bearing or something went out in the pulley and its leaking threw the front...

Hmm. So it's a bad pump then eh? The pulley on my pump broke/cracked around the shaft and caused a terrible noise. That and the tensioner was on it's way out. I put a new pully on the shaft but it never leaked. So I'm guessing at one point on that pump you have someone yanked/pried on the pulley/shaft and caused damage to the seal. Did you remove ti or the junkyard? If the JY, then they might have been too rough taking it off...

yeah probably. i'll get a new one. there 10 bux. besides there's an 04 grand am  with a 3400 in there im almost sure that one wont be bad lol.

hey wht96, you got pics of the motor swap? and what kind of and what year did you get the motor? i'm lookin to ditch my 200,000 mile 3.1. and a indy needs a bad a**ed motor     Thanx. Crashb6