Beretta.net

Under the steering wheel, flat harness connector, about 9 wires.  The fourth wire, light blue, location D.  Snip this wire so that the car does not always lock because it thinks its in drive and locking the doors.

Speed sensor: splice in speed sensor, same purple and yellow color wires.  Terminal supply has the connector in peices so that you dont need any splicing, just tcut and assemble the new connector.  I didn't need any extra wire to do this.

for the park neutral switch, splice yellow and purple wire together, this will let the car start.  Make sure that the switch is turned phusically to a drive gear to get the car to rev above 4000 rpms.

reverse lights: THe harnes that I got off Corry's 1988 beretta had a 2 wire harness for the reverse lights that came off the manual transmission.  THe colors should be blue and green.  The harness on my car that had the yellow and purple wire for the park/nuetral switch will have a wire (possibly green) for the reverse lights.  Connect the greens and then connnect the blue to anything hot.  C1B or C1D should be hot on that plug.  C1F should be the reverse lights.

most of this was copied from a conversation me and geoff had

Ahh thanks Scott, very good info. You should put it on your website!!!  

I take it cutting the light blue wire to disable auto locks, would work if one wasn't doing a swap, but didn't want those blasted auto locks!!! I might do that right away!!

Incase you guys weren't hip to harness tools, just use the delco green handle pick to just remover the wire so you don't have to cut anything and can just plug it back in if you want to.

http://www.terminalsupplyco.com/product ... og_pdf.asp

click "terminals" and go to page 46 to see the tool, part nubmer 12094429



You can use things like paper clips for this too... but from my experience this tool is just more user friendly.  Also, you should try to know if you are dealing with a pull through or push in terminal clip.

Ya when I can I  just remove the wire prong. I re-worked an aftermarket stereo harness adapater so the dimmer function would work and the pin is now in the correct spot. I just used an Awl or Ice-pick.

Am I safe to diable the auto locks even if I keep the auto in right now, or will that confuse something?

Thanks agian.

To be completely honest, I just followed Geoff's word.  I would imagine that doing it now would not harm anything.

I guess I'll have to try it. I *hate* those blasted auto locks and as you well know pulling the fuse doesn't stop them from locking, put un-locking despite what the manual tells you. I'll just drive it slowly until I see if it acts wonky or not.

WOW, WHat do auto locks have to do with motor mounts!
i guess thats what happens when i forget to check my posts.
anyway, where do i get the liquid polyurethane, i check my local ACE hardware and they weren't sure what i was talking about.

haha sorry for the hi-jack. Got involved in our own conversation.

McMastercar has it I belive. Search I know it's been disucssed before. Uhm, other than that, If you get soemthign thats polyurathane adhesive for windshields i'm sure it's the same stuff. Just read the label. Check out auto stores perhaps for it?


Click here. I searched for ya.

Hey thanks i'll check for that.
luckily i've got a second set of mounts that are ruined, so they are perfectfor what i want, and i can continue to drive!

yeah, the 3m window weld is basically polyurethane...

55-60 A is what the website says for hardness.  I thought it was harder than that.  Either way, I was happy with it's performance.

maybe the wheel hop changed so much from the 94 set-up to the manual was maybe  the trans weighs alot less. and you don't have a TQ converter??