Beretta.net

Not too bad when you compare the price of a turbo vs the S/C.
Did you get everything with it in this kit??
Can't wait to hear it running?Going to make a vid??

He bought a used kit from a guy on the GA forums... I don't even think RSM makes these kits anymore. Anyways they are not intended to fit a Beretta at all so buying the "kit" really doesn't get you a great head start since you can see what he already had to modify to have it work.

If you could get the SC and the input shaft setup then you would be headed in the right direction but still need quite a bit of fab work. Also his aftercooler is something that someone bought separate and integrated into this setup. You could go with a standard front mount intercooler rather than this way if you have the space which we know a Beretta front end does.

I understand it's for the GA.I was asking if he got everything in the picture with this kit he purchased.I would love a turbo,but like a wise man once said.I don't have money burning a hole in my pocket;)

I believe there are some extra items pictured there that did not come with the kit but I could be wrong. I also contemplated buying this kit from the person he did but he beat me to it... I couldn't justify it quick enough in my head to dump that much money since I still haven't figured out my current traction issues, why bother making more power

Jon is correct, ive had to mod alot of things just to make it fit and everything is tight just to make it fit right,
I had to put the battery in the trunk to make room for my comptech aftercooler ect.

The origional RSM kit for a Grand am which is the kit i have came with the following which can be seen here ( http://www.pfyc.com/GA3017.html ) :
V9-G supercharger + Shaft,
Aluminum 6-8psi pulley,
Supercharger mounting bracket for 4t45-e trans,
Battery tray,
K&N Filter + piping/couplers,
Blow-off valve,
Belt,
oil feed and return lines,
28lb trailblazer injectors.

My kit that i paid $1500 for came with all of that plus a comptech aftercooler which i was told by some is not needed at such low psi in a S/C but as Jon told me any compressed air is hot.
It also came with a heater core to run the aftercooler liquid through and a pump.
The man i bought it from was generous enough to give me a walbro 255 which was not included in the original kit.
I also had to buy a boost gauge + pod, 42lb injectors for fear that the 28lb ones aren't big enough, various rad hoses to route around the S/C, and had to purchase a few differant silicone couplers because the ones in the kit were not designed to run through the aftercooler.

I have been modifying the kid for almost 2 months off and on to make it fit and work properly,
I had to shorten the S/C shaft and shaft housing, than sleeve the shaft to be able to use better bearings, completely rework the trans mount so it would work with my 4t60-e and fab a bracket to hold that bracket to my trans, than i had to shorten my the outlet on my rad so it wouldnt hit the S/C and use 3 different rad houses pieced together to wrap around the S/C, I removed my abs and moved the battery to the trunk, than put in my walbro 255 and swapped to my 42lb injectors, than removed my oil pan off to drill and tap for the oil return and figure out the mess of fittings i needed to tie everything together, than remeasured the belt length after everything was mocked up to get the correct length, and am currently running the lines to the aftercooler to the pump and than to the heater core mounted in front of the rad.

In the next day or two my correct belt should be in and i should have all the piping together finally.
The only reason i took on this project was because i became a machinist, if i didnt have access to a mill/lathe on a daily basis i wouldn't have done this because there was a ton of BS to make everything fit right.. So far i have alittle over 2k in this project so far and id bet around 150-200hrs minimum in labor

2K isn't bad at all. I'm in that ball park as well with almost all used parts. Labor time is also very close to the same. Though I rebuilt my engine/trans at the same time and did the obd2 swap.

I do think yours looks cooler though..

Z26_T wrote:2K isn't bad at all. I'm in that ball park as well with almost all used parts. Labor time is also very close to the same. Though I rebuilt my engine/trans at the same time and did the obd2 swap.

I do think yours looks cooler though..

Thanx dood, and my S/C was used,
I had my trans rebuilt, and will rebuild the engine when i burn it up, those hours are just what ive put into the S/C setup, ive been working on my beretta for over 4 years..

From my motortopia.. http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1995-che ... etta-23706

Mods
Engine:
-Vortech VF-9 & BOV,
-8psi Billet 6061 Aluminum Pulley,
-Comptech Aftercooler & H20 Rad+Pump,
-Walbro 255 Pump,
-42.5lb Lucas Injectors,
-SS Braided Oil Feed, Oil Return, Rad hose,
-Full synthetic Oil Swap,
-Glowshift Tinted gauges & Piller Pod,
-3400 Block
-3500 Ported and Polished Upper Intake
-3500 Ported and Polished Lower Intake
-3500 Ported and Polished Heads
-LX5 65mm Throttle Body
-Motor Oil/Trans Oil Cooler
-Cold Air Intake
-180* T-Stat
-Equal Length V6 Headers
-FULL 2.5" Exhaust
-High Flow Cat
-Magnaflow XLTurbo Dual Tip Stainless Muffler
-8.2mm Taylor ThunderVolt Wires
-High Output Alternator
-6061 Aluminum Overdrive Alternator Pulley
-2 Awg BIG 3 Rewire
-NGK Iridium Plugs
-EGR Delete
-ABS Delete

Transmission

-ZZP Aluminum Transmission Pan
-Full Synthetic Fluid
-Raybestos Stage 1 Red Clutches
-TransGo Shift Kit
-Shimmed Accumulators
-Hardened/Anodized Sannox Valves
-Hardened Sannox Output Shaft
-Hardened Reverse Shell
-Dual Stripe Modulator
-1900 Stall

Suspension/Steering

-Front Strut Tower Brace
-Rear Shock Tower Brace
-Front 28mm Anti-Sway Bar
-Rear 22mm Z51 Anti-Sway Bar
-Poly Filled Trans Mount
-Poly Engine Mount Insert
-Poly 28mm Front Sway Bar Bushings
-Poly 22mm Rear Sway Bar Bushings
-Poly Sway Bar End Links
-Poly Ball-Joint & Tie-Rod Dust Boots
-Billet 7075 Aluminum DogBone & Poly Bushings
-Moog Tie-Rods
-4 Wheel Disk Brakes
-4 Wheel Stainless Steel Brake Lines
-Centric Drilled/Slotted Rotors In Front
-Centric Performance Rotors In Back
-Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic Pads
-KYB GR-2 Struts In Front
-KYB Gas-A-Just In Rear
-Intrax 2" Lowering Springs

Appearance:

-17" Motegi DP-10 Rims with 225/45/17 Yokohama
-SS Badges
-SS Valve Stem Caps
-Audiovox Persuit Remote Starter/Alarm System
-Stubby Antenna
-3 Piece CMC Wing
-BMW E-36 Headlights
-HID 6000k Xenon Bulbs
-Clear Turns
-Redline Racing Hood Lifts
-Tinted Tails & Side Markers
-Navigator Fogs
-Custom Kick Panels & Rear Deck
-Grant GT Steering Wheel
-Billet Aluminum Hurst Shift Handle
-Billet Aluminum E-Brake Handle
-Stainless Gauge Bezel
-7 Color Changing Indiglo Hvac
-Blue Neon Front, Racing Pedals
-Custom Painted Interior: Black/Silver
-Custom Painted Exterior: Stealth Gray Metallic/Black Stripes

Audio:

-Alpine 9886 CD Player
-Alpine Type-R 6"x9" Rear
-Alpine Type-S 6.5" Front
-Alpine KTP-445 Amp

3X00-Modified wrote:

Slinky wrote: and made keys from tool steel.

I don't know if I would have gone that far... You still want a key to fail before something else breaks. Its supposed to be a sheer point to save the shaft, pulley, belt and SC internals.

And really all you have to beat is a low 16 since you don't have another time on your car and you should feel accomplished since it's quicker than a stock Z26... LOL

Keep chugging.

Its A2 tool steel, air hardened, its harder than mild carbon steel, but still not really a hardened tool steel

need some pix of the car up its been a long time since you posted any pix of it. the car sounds like its turning out great looking foward to seeing what this car is going to be capable of

Ill post some soon

nice work. I too had a S/C setup I bought on 60 degree but it was a V5F. it's a pain to make it work but in the end it will be worth it. I lost some parts in a fire, but still have the head unit and my mount i made for a 4T60-e. I think it will compliment nicely your auto tranny and save you from roasting too much tires.

oh and vortech recommend a Bypass valve at 6+ PSI and a intercooler at 10+PSI. don't run a too thin oil in your engine...it will get past the oil seal on the s/c. If you need something I did lots of research on the vortech.

You guys are making me want to SC my car again... knock it off! lol

LX9 you still looking to sell that V5F? If I do anything it's going to be that type.

well i,m still looking to sell it. I had a potential buyer for evething before it my garage caught fire. It's got some parts missing from the fire but I got some that are at my house packaged. If your interrested PM me I will make you a good deal.

Very close to being finished..



And started it today..

Nice work hopefully u can run it by next month very very interested how well your build worked out

is that lx5 tb if so do u do any blasting on parts as i need few things blasted clean if your willing to do so???