Beretta.net

as I've said to a few others, I will MAIL you a ICM if you need it for testing. I probably have 4 good ones on my bench.

Thanks, but I need the car fixed asap. I just checked with the junkyard and I can get the ICM, Coil packs and fuel pressure regulator all for $60, and that includes them taking the parts off (they won't let you take anything off)

So that would more or less cover all except the Crank Position Sensor (forgot to price that, but given it's location I'm guessing it won't be cheap)

Any chance anyone knows what years the parts will work off of? (just incase they would get the parts off a different year)

for a CPS 87 to 96 beretta will work since they were all the same, but for part interchange just look at Rockauto.com they list what that part will fit.

CHEVROLET BERETTA (1987 - 1996)
CHEVROLET CAVALIER (1987 - 1994)
CHEVROLET CELEBRITY (1987 - 1990)
CHEVROLET CORSICA (1987 - 1996)
CHEVROLET CORVETTE (1990 - 1995)
CHEVROLET IMPALA (2000 - 2005)
CHEVROLET LLV (1994 - 1995)
CHEVROLET LUMINA (1990 - 2001)
CHEVROLET LUMINA APV 1996
CHEVROLET MALIBU (1997 - 2003)
CHEVROLET MONTE CARLO (1995 - 2005)
CHEVROLET S10 PICKUP (1994 - 1995)
CHEVROLET VENTURE (1997 - 2005)
GMC SONOMA (1994 - 1995)
HONDA PASSPORT (1994 - 1995)
ISUZU RODEO (1993 - 1995)
ISUZU TROOPER (1992 - 1995)
OLDSMOBILE ACHIEVA (1994 - 1998)
OLDSMOBILE ALERO (1999 - 2004)
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS (1996 - 1998)
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS CIERA (1986 - 1996)
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME (1988 - 1997)
OLDSMOBILE FIRENZA (1986 - 1987)
OLDSMOBILE SILHOUETTE (1996 - 2004)
PONTIAC 6000 (1987 - 1991)
PONTIAC AZTEK (2001 - 2005)
PONTIAC FIREBIRD 1992
PONTIAC GRAND AM (1994 - 2005)
PONTIAC GRAND PRIX (1988 - 2003)
PONTIAC MONTANA (1999 - 2005)
PONTIAC SUNBIRD (1991 - 1994)
PONTIAC TEMPEST (1987 - 1991)
PONTIAC TRANS SPORT (1996 - 1998)

I'm putting a junkyard fuel pressure regulator, junkyard icm and coils on it. I would have it done now but all the gaskets/o rings need to be special ordered, so I'll update saturday or sunday if it fixed it or not. The coils/icm look like even more of a pain in the ass than the pressure regulator.

I just really hope it's not the injectors because if it is I'll have to rip it all down again lol Not to mention injectors aren't very cheap last time I checked.

Also, I don't mean to be stupid, but is it supposed to smell strongly of gas under the plenum? when I took the plenum off it smells like gasoline in the regulator area. The regulator that is on the car right now is really really shitty looking, looks original, so hopefully that and the icm/coils fix it.

Take the upper mounting bolts off the radiator support. That will give you a little more room(if you push on the radiator). Also take the ICM and coils off as one piece. Then you can take the coils off with ease.
Do you have any computer CPU grease? If you do spead it thin with a credit card on the back of the ICM(where it sits on the backing plate, use rubbing alcohol to clean it before the grease). That helps keep moisture out and gives a better connection to the plate(The plate is more or less a heat sink as well as a mount). Also be sure to clean off the backing plate's back, don't leave any gunk back there.
A new ICM would have been a better idea, but hey.
On the regulator if it was leaking you would be able to smell fuel. I'm guessing that you had the vacuum tube off when you smelled it. Or you had a really bad seal around the outside.

Did you check the vacuum lines? I have a bad line or valve in the evap. tank. I ended up plugging the port for it on the TB.

Well, the O rings/seals on the injectors and regulator were pretty shitty, and the plenum/upper intake gasket was broken. So I replaced all that and it still runs like ass. I guess I'll have to try the ICM/Coils, I just really kinda dread doing that because it looks like a PITA. Still has the original injectors and fuel rails, wish I could replace them with new ones, but I did clean them up as good as possible.

Also, the TV cable needs adjusted after removing the plenum, right? That is what I have thought since I got it but I wasn't sure, and I don't really want to chance ruining the trans.

I'll have to check the EVAP lines but all the other vaccum lines looked ok.

I wish the damn CEL would light up now that I actually need it, lol.

I would recommend checking the injectors with a ohm reader. If you do not have one rent one from autozone ( I did this). It comes with multimeter and a gauge to measure the gas pressure. Recently I also had a problem with my GTU that it would get warm and sputter under load. Turned out to be my EGR. Just unplug it see if it makes any difference if it does then the EGR might be your problem.

Okay, I did the ICM and Coil Packs (tested good at autozone) and it runs better, but not driveable. It misses when in gear and if you punch the gas in park/neutral, if you gradually press the gas in park/neutral it does not miss, also doesn't seem to be running rich anymore (or not much)

Could the plugs be fouled from being so rich? Hope it's that! lol

About time for a crank sensor.
You can clean the plugs/chambers by steam cleaning.

Is that as hard as it sounds like (Crank Sensor)? I'm guessing that is a bitch to change?

It's a bit tough because the bolt is longer than it should be. Also it's a bit hard to get to, but it's easy to find. I'll give you a tip: Use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, you will never get anything bigger than that in there. Be ready to pull hard on that thing, they have a great O-ring on there.

So you know how to steam clean?

Money pit Beretta wrote:It's a bit tough because the bolt is longer than it should be. Also it's a bit hard to get to, but it's easy to find. I'll give you a tip: Use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, you will never get anything bigger than that in there. Be ready to pull hard on that thing, they have a great O-ring on there.

So you know how to steam clean?

Is it easier than the Coils/ICM on the 89 and older Beretta's (recessed under the manifold)?

Nope, don't know how to steam clean the plugs. I was gonna try Carb cleaner or something similar but I don't know if it's powerful enough.

Oh yeah, but it's still somewhat of a pain. Really pain is what I felt and what I remember from doing it on the old 90GT(3.1).
To steam clean all you need is a spray bottle with water. With the engine running and the intake tube off just spray inside the TB. Keep your hand on the throttle so you can keep the engine running. Just spray a little and let the engine recover, then do it some more. After you think that you have put a good amount in there take it out for a drive. It's going to run like crap and then it will be back to normal after some time.

Money pit Beretta wrote:Oh yeah, but it's still somewhat of a pain. Really pain is what I felt and what I remember from doing it on the old 90GT(3.1).
To steam clean all you need is a spray bottle with water. With the engine running and the intake tube off just spray inside the TB. Keep your hand on the throttle so you can keep the engine running. Just spray a little and let the engine recover, then do it some more. After you think that you have put a good amount in there take it out for a drive. It's going to run like crap and then it will be back to normal after some time.

That sounds a bit risky to me, guess it isn't enough water to hydrolock though. Thanks for the tip though.

I don't know what they were thinking with the coils/icm, and they put the damn AC line's in the way of the bottom middle bolt.

Anything that needs to be taken off to do the crank sensor?