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Why did you say you welded in the bung for the wideband, but your showing the stock O2 location for the SS headers?

Did you move the stock sensor to somewhere else? Also running a wideband on one bank isn't the best solution, that's why I put that bung down under the car.

I also thought about your coolant thing... It doesn't like 6k... Remember a stock 4t60 shifts at 5800 and IIRC you never manually shifted yours on the strip, so you always short shifted in comparison. I bet you never saw 6k before the 5-speed.

3X00-Modified wrote:Why did you say you welded in the bung for the wideband, but your showing the stock O2 location for the SS headers?

Did you move the stock sensor to somewhere else? Also running a wideband on one bank isn't the best solution, that's why I put that bung down under the car.

I also thought about your coolant thing... It doesn't like 6k... Remember a stock 4t60 shifts at 5800 and IIRC you never manually shifted yours on the strip, so you always short shifted in comparison. I bet you never saw 6k before the 5-speed.

Take another look. The stock location with the S&S is on the rear header just after the EGR spot. I welded the wideband bung in the front header just before the EGR. You can (barely) see the stock sensor right next to the valve cover in that pic.

I ran my Z26 to about 6 at the strip as well by holding L at the top of 2nd. I even bounced it off the limiter a few times in D on the 1-2 shift because that trans was gay. I found when I pulled the header off that the bracket for that coolant tube was not secure. It's a slotted bracket and the stud was in the head for the bracket with no nut holding it on. Now all is well.

Just be thankful it was just a coolant tube that let loose and not the alternator fan going into your hood...

I plan to raise my rev limiter to get around the 1-2 issue.. Although it mainly does it when the trans is not hot. I also plan to raise the 2-3 shift as it's stupid low.

Yes, 2-3 is low in drive, but you can hold 2 as long as you want by selecting L.

Yeah, but I prefer to not have to do that, since I will soon be able to tune it to what I want. I did get my best times holding it manually. I can raise the rev limit too and have it wind out to 6k if I want. I don't know what my valve springs will do, but it was pulling hard till it hit the limiter before.. Just now it's loosing power due to going lean starting in the upper-mid RPMs now with the exhaust.

Yesterday I pulled off the pass. drum and adjusted the shoes looser because they were dragging. (After a couple drum squeaks I realized why the car didnt feel so smooth on a slow 1-2, 2-3 shift.) Car felt great after I adjusted the shoes off... no brake drag, and it got worse as today went on. I'm sure they are dragging again.

Do the shoes auto-adjust whenever you back the car up? Looking at the adjust mechanism it kinda looks that way. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem, and if so, how did you fix it? I thought about Loc-Tite on the adjustment screw.

That was the old days Woody, they adjust when you go forward. My guess is there is something wrong with the adjuster.

My guess is rear disk swap.

My right drum is still screwed up but i dont fix it beacause I keep thinking that im gonna put my disks on.

woody90gtz wrote:I found when I pulled the header off that the bracket for that coolant tube was not secure. It's a slotted bracket and the stud was in the head for the bracket with no nut holding it on. Now all is well.

So when you FINALLY check the nut I was telling you to check you fix the problem...

Throw a rebuild kit to the rears and possibly a new wheel cylinder, that may be sticking which causes the drum to adjust too far out.

3X00-Modified wrote:

woody90gtz wrote:I found when I pulled the header off that the bracket for that coolant tube was not secure. It's a slotted bracket and the stud was in the head for the bracket with no nut holding it on. Now all is well.

So when you FINALLY check the nut I was telling you to check you fix the problem...

Throw a rebuild kit to the rears and possibly a new wheel cylinder, that may be sticking which causes the drum to adjust too far out.

Yeah, I couldnt see anything but the stud due to the header, and when I pulled it off I see it was missing the nut.

I'd hate to rebuild the stupid drum brakes since I do plan on rear disc-ing it. For now I'll adjust it close and give the Loc-tite a try. If I never do go rear disc I'll just have to rebuild the drums at a later date.

I got some little stuff done today. ALDL cable is installed with the laptop ready to connect for a data log... just need steal it from Tiff. hahaha Got the rear speakers installed so sounds actually comes out of the stereo now, and did some research as to why my Ipod wont work with it. Apparently it's common for Sony head units to ignore any aux inputs that are not "Sony-approved" so I need an adapter to fool it. Also got the rear shelf, back seats, seat belts and rear interior panels in. Ran out of time to check the drum (which is what I originally went in the garage for).

I still need to do the headliner but I've been procrastinating because I dont know how well it will turn out. I mocked up my Tahoe temp/compass rearview mirror and realized I'll lose the map lights if I use it. But... I have a 90 GTZ overhead console I can use that has map lights. I need to make a decision on that before I can do the headliner. And... I need to decide whether to use that material for the headliner or door panels because I dont have enough for both. I dont really like the seat gray on the door panels and I'll either have to find another black that matches the seats & headliners, or just use that cheap Walmart carpet stuff. I used that for my rear shelf and kick panel speakers years ago and it has held up really well.

I got an Alldata print out for my ECM, but still have a question about hooking the wbo2 in.

I know the wires for the Canister purge (GF7), EGR A (GE9), EGR B (GF4), EGR C (GF5), AC 5V (BA4), AC Pressure signal (GF14) AC Sensor Ground (BB5) which is also shared with the TPS & IAT.

I need a 0-5V and ground for the Lambda + & - from the gauge. It may be as simple as splicing the + into the GF7 wire and the - into the BB5 ground, but I'd just like to make sure.

Yeah, as long as you ground the Wideband to the same as the sensor input your using is grounded to then your fine... and yes use a 0-5v signal... I'm not sure what sensor your using but you need to figure out the scale for it unless you have a chart, that way you can take that scanned pid and edit the output with a formula to get a A/F value reading rather than a 0-5v number.

Rodney mentioned the GF14 location in a previous post, but it was one of those "I heard this was the way to do it" things, as he has never done it. He has an autoprom.

The GF14 does match up with the "AC Pressure Signal" in my alldata print and that makes the BB5 "AC sensor ground" sound correct.

Maybe I'll check a j-body forum or something.

It wont hurt anything to wire it up and then just scan the AC pressure pid and see if your getting a value.