Beretta.net

Wideband! It's richer than Donald Trump. Except AE, which is hella lean - but I'm sure was worse with the leaner injector constant...so that explains the driveability. Now I know what I need to adjust. So I should be in double-digit MPG numbers in no time!

That's reading lean as F...

And you said before you didn't have enough fuel and it was stumbling.

Analog O2 sensors are weird...

That pic is with the engine off, just after I mounted the gauge to the dash with my DIY bracket.

The lean stumble is from the AE. A carburetor has a pump shot for when you first hit the gas before the engine draws more air through the venturis. EFI has Acceleration Enrichment tables for the same concept. So you go from fat to lean in a split second when you crack the throttle. Idles at 11:1, pegs to 17:1 on tip in. My real bad lean stumbles were before I upgraded the fuel pump.

The o2 gauge face is analog, but it has an output for the datastream, so I can compare it with the stock o2 in the datalog just like the Beretta.

don't compare to stock O2 readings... compare to commanded a/f That will tell you when your tables are right. And I know what AE is, I have to mess with it quite a bit too, but I thought your issues before were WOT running like crap with not enough fuel.

Either way it sounds like your VE tables are way too rich for what the engine is flowing or you have an issue with your injector flow rate so its flowing more than what it thinks it is, and your correction values are probably maxed out.

I've found like 3 different conversions for my injectors/psi to get the new lb/hr. Do you know of a good calculator? I have the stock 61lb@12psi injectors running at 20psi, and I have seen specs from 75-93lb for that combo. I tried 85 as the injector constant but it was giving me bad lean stumbling at tip in so I went with 75 for driveability. Now I plan to go back to 85 and add a bunch of AE and see what it does. I'll probably still have to add a little VE in at higher load and take some out at idle due to the cam.

I have not found a Commanded AFR bit for $0D like the Beretta has for $A1. That would make life too easy!

Commanded helps you ensure you have the tables right at WOT really... for part throttle you can work with the BLM's for now. So its not NEEDED, but will help you compare to what it's expecting to see vs what it is seeing.

I just use witchhunter's calculator for mine, but I also messed with determining my fuel pressure at idle vs WOT and scaled my IFR table to reflect the pressure change, it helped a lot as far as fueling goes and I think my setup is running quite nice lately. Their calculator comes up with 78.75 for your change.

My regulator is not vacuum referenced though, so the constant should be a constant. As rich as it is, I'm surprised the calculator was not closer to 85. I'll plug in 79 for the constant and take some VE out of the lower part throttle cruise. There's not that much extra camshaft duration, so I'm a little surprised the low VE is so far off.

I may go full open loop and tune with just the wideband at some point too rather than chase the BLMs.

Thats funny... When I do VE tuning I do it in full closed loop mode chasing the corrections, or using the corrections as a direction. Weird how OBDI you go the other way. I also do it in speed density mode and unplug the MAF.... Only once the VE is square do I then plug that in and re-scale that table till the corrections are low or within 5%

You can do it either way with OBD1, but the wideband is quicker than the BLMs.

Played with the tune tonight and got it running really good. That's the kind of low-end torque I was expecting! Changed the wideband color to aqua too so it matches the stock dash better. haha

when should i expect you here to do mine? we should be getting snow soon. I just live down the road from boners mom. lol

I'm so glad I can make changes with one cable and leave the ECU in place.

My Autoprom is supposed to be able to emulate so I can do the same all from the laptop, but I can't get it to work. Flash the BIN to the AP fine, verify BIN with AP buffer fine...but it does not run right. I even double checked the offsets, etc and cant find anything wrong in my settings.

Got a video of the exhaust.
http://youtu.be/5lhR1xgpq4I

Haven't updated in a while. Been using it to haul building materials for my basement project. I'll get pics of that some time soon.

It's a little finicky in the cold, so I bought what I need to do a MAT conversion on it. From the factory the TBI engines don't have an intake or manifold air temp sensor because they have a heat pipe from the header to the air cleaner (to keep the sprayed fuel warm through the intake manifold). The heat pipe kills power though, and I installed headers and an open air cleaner so the heat pipe is no more. The Manifold air temp sensor goes right in the intake runner and it more accurate than an IAT on a wet-flow intake...since the air charge in the intake runner can be 40* cooler than ambient temp under certain circumstances. There is a table in the tune to adjust the fueling based on a CTS/MAT blend to add fuel when cold. Right now it gives me some lean stumbles when really cold because the fuel falls out of the air and coats the runners. Then when you let off the throttle the higher vacuum pulls the fuel off the runners and make it rich on decel. Adding the MAT will let me compensate the AE and DE accordingly.

I also painted the skid plate with a "Z71" and made a PRND321 block off plate for the cluster. I don't have pic, but I also blacked out the tailgate and some time soon I'll be tinting the headlights & turn signals to complete the black out. The stock headlights & signals look a little out of place now.

I put some new tires on the back and switched the 60% tread tires to the front, and kept one of the mostly worn out fronts for a spare. Unfortunately when I built my exhaust with no spare I didnt think about the tire clearance. Since the 33s are slightly oversize anyway it won't fit under the bed where the spare tire winch is. So I need to either modify the tail pipe or find another spot for the spare. I don't want to mount it in the bed...so I'm looking at hitch mount spare options. They look a little Jeep-y, but they would allow me to keep full use of the bed, and build one pretty cheap.