Beretta.net

Yes the damper area is where it counts the most, I'd try to maximize that.

Any updates? I just ordered some new parts and picking some up later today

Unfortunately not. I live at college so my car is far away and I have no time to work on it.

May prep the e36 for drift so I can get some more seat time before the beretta is finished. Progress will be real slow from here out

Sucks you'll be short on time with the car. I'll surely be looking forward to updates, and especially the day you post a drift video of it...

This weekend feels like a good RWD swapping weekend.

Ideal goals for this weekend would be:
Finish rwd belt accessories,etc
Re gasket engine
Put clutch and pilot bearing in
Drop back in car
Get car back on 4 wheels and out of garage.


That would be HUGE, well see what happens. Might have to grab a new motor for the bimmer soon so thats a weekend or so blown out in the future.

What way do these engines spin if your looking at the crank balancer? CW? I need to be careful of where I mount my spring loaded tensioner... Wrong side of the crank pully and it will slack under load wont it?

Clockwise. Pretty certain on that too. The alternator on the standard setup always spins the same direction as the crank.. Smooth pulleys spin CCW.

DTMAce wrote:Clockwise. Pretty certain on that too. The alternator on the standard setup always spins the same direction as the crank.. Smooth pulleys spin CCW.

Correct, and I think I understand what your confusion is... I believe the best place for a tensioner is just before the crank pulley but even on the other side, it should still experience the same forces though, thats why its spring loaded... I can't find any info online stressing either side, but if you look at a lot of stock setups they are either just before the crank pulley on the left, OR one accessory before the crank on the left.

Think of OHC and DOHC motors. The tensioner for the timing belt/chain is always on the side that is slack when the engine is running.

So say the tensioner creates 100lb tension in the belt, and the tension put into the belt by the balancer accelerating the accessories is also 100. That would mean the section between the crank and the p/s pump would have 200lbs of tension when the side between the balancer and the waterpump is 100.

As tension increases the belt wants to follow the straightest path possible. With a tensioner on the right side will cause slack under acceleration im 90% sure.

Which is why you find the tensioner to the left of the crank on the belt's exit path from it. I would agree with you on having it on the right would be a mistake. So try to keep it as close to the exit as you can.

Well, this weekend was a fail. Ended up working on other peoples crap all weekend, motorcycles, dirtbikes, lawn mowers.

I did build a sweet tensioner however. Honda v6 tensioner with a ford mustang v6 pully is a great combo for rwd berettas. Need to finish making some spacers and brackets and the belt system is done.

This is not a spring tensioner, its a bolt type for simplicity.

Made a tensioner from a v6 accord and a ford mustang. Gotta finish a few odds and ends and the accessory system will be done. Turns out that it uses a stock beretta 3x00 belt too, convenient.

Why don't you come off the crank, go around the water pump then over to the PS pump and then alternator? I think the crank belt wrap is way more critical than the others... and currently you don't have much there.

Sorry for bumping this. But ya got any updates on this? It'll be sweet once it's done.

Been some of that going on.

Oh yeah... the beretta.... I finished the belt system minus one small bracket. Thats it.

It looks like there wont be many updates on this thread until I move back home in september. Then I can work on it often like I was able to last winter. I only have access to the car on the weekends and I work all weekend so nothing gets done.

Dont lose hope though, this project WILL be running this winter. Its way to close to stop.