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My injector harness is very tight. I don't like this and it makes me think bad thoughts.

What do you mean tight?

And you really should have found a set of metal valve covers to replace those POS plastic ones... Also silicone is not necessary on the rubber type gaskets, so silicone the covers was rather overkill if you ask me, BUT then again it may prevent the possible leaks that these type of valve covers end up having.

Well, you can see it in the first photo. There would be more slack if I didn't have the strut tower bar. I'm going to have to find a way to make this work!

Grab some alum covers, remove the silicone, put it just in the V notches of the covers and re-install.

No idea about your injector harness, you must have it routed wrong. Shouldn't be any different than before.

Yea it's strange, I don't see how it got this way. There are not very many ways that the harness can go. I did try to put it on top of the PS line, but that didn't help. I can't put the alt on the way it is. Right now the harness goes out the back by the PS pump.

You need to post a picture of where your harness is routed over by the PS pump, I can't see that in the pics you have so I can't tell if its routed wrong.

Checked some old pics and the harness needs to go over the fuel rail, not under. I'm going to take the upper intake off and redo it. I'll keep you updated on this 3X00. I'll get to work now and will be back later in the day or night. There is still many other things to do other than this and I need to get this car back on the road. I'd be done if it was not for having spent so much time on the T-stat by-pass line. Hope that thing seals, the parts stores couldn't find an O-ring that would fit very well.

IIRC the harnes goes out between the 2 runners by the brake vacuum port area as well, in case you dont have it going that way.

Got the upper and the fuel rails off and moved the harness. It is ok now and the car is running again. I now have an exhaust leak. I thought of putting it by the vac port, but it just didn't look like there was enough room. If I had it to do all over again I would have had the lower threaded for the T-stat bypass. I lost a total of a days work screwing with that. The oil has been changed and the cooling system is starting to fill again. When do I need to change the oil again?
Boy, this took much longer than I thought it would. Oh, and the exhaust leak is because I had my 15 year old jack on the trans mount over night and it went down. It was a pain in the butt to get the upper mount to line up again. Thanks for all the support on this guys!
I'm going to have the cooling system flushed and the exhaust leak fixed on Wednesday. The CAI will go on this weekend.

I need to make sure I have all the coolant out of the oil. When do I need to change it again?

The exhaust leak was a plug that wasn't tight. It felt tight and unlike the others it took alot of effort to get it down all the way. The engine has more low end TQ after the swap and feels like a newer car.

Uhm, when I did mine, I would change gasket. After the silicone cured, I'd fire up the car and let it get warm a little bit, then shut it off, drain the oil and change it.

Then drive as normal.

I do this anytime I do an intake gasket even if the coolant was leaking outside the motor only. Because you knock debris down into the engine when working on it.


That plug, did you take it out and clean the threads, and apply anti-seize?

I did the oil change after the swap, but didn't start it. Yea, I use anti-sieze on all bolts that go into aluminum and always on the plugs. That plug still had some on it, but knew that it was the one leaking because the anti-sieze had turned to powder. I use two spark plug sockets to get the plugs in. One has the rubber inside(used to start the plug by hand) and another with the rubber out of it(used to get it hand tight and then for the ratchet). I did put some more on after I took the plug out and it was very tough still and I don't just put a small amount on(the threads were ultra clean before that).
Is there a good boot puller out there? I hate to put the connecters back on after I pull the boot. Not that I have to do that much, but still.
Thanks for the support on all this Isaac and the updates on your sig are great.
I'll pull the dipstick and check it for coolant. I did dump two quarts of oil in the valley before the lower was put on to wash it out.

Thanks. I corrected part of it where it said vibration with RPM, its really with speed.

How hard was the spark plug to get screwed in? Was there gunk int he head threads or do you think it's stripped? As long as it tightened up and stayed tight without having to REALLY get hard on it you should be ok.

How bad was the coolant in the oil? Was it just mayo under the valve covers and such, or was the coolant a milkshake color? If it was milk shake you should probably change it fairly soon, and look at how it looks now.

Pouring some oil down the valley should help but I like to circulate it a little.

I take it you put on a new filter too right?

I thought it was stripped, it took forever to get it tight. I should have taken of the strut tower bar off sooner to get more room to work. I was only able to more the ratchet 1/8 of a turn at a time. I didn't check the threads in the head because I thought they were just a little screwed up from all the hot gasses blowing by. It took a good amount of power to get that plug in. I have hope that next time it will be more easy. The hope is that the plug retapped the threads. The intake gasket was not that bad. The only leaks were on the sides and that wasn't too much. The oil didn't look like milk before the swap. It was going to go out, so I thought I'd take care of it early. I just pulled the dipstick and the oil looks ok. There was no smell of coolant. The plan on the filter was to change it when the oil was changed again later. The filter is only a few months old and there were a lot of chunks that fell into the engine. I wanted the old filter to take out as much as it could before the new filter is put on with the next change.

Hope to see a new topic or a link for your trans swap. You know how much I want a better FDR.

Ok, well since you have fresh oil in it, and have drove it a while, just do a filter change and you should be ok. By now the chunk have got trapped and you need to change the filter so it's not clogging and opening the by-pass. I wouldn't wait a whole oil change period before changing the filter.