Beretta.net

woody90gtz wrote: Cutting springs isn't really a big deal. Cutting them actually makes the spring rate stiffer anyway.

I guess you didn't read a single word in the link I posted about that...

It all depends on the design of the original spring, the spring travel and travel lost, so that statement is not true for all springs, it may make the rate stiffer but the amount of travel lost vs the stiffness gained is not sufficient to absorb the same amount of force as the original spring with its original travel.

If the suspension at stock ride height has 4 inches of travel, and the stock spring has a constant of 100 lb/in, then the spring will absorb up to 400 lb of force before the suspension bottoms out.

If the stock spring is then cut so that the resting height is the desired 2 inches lower, then there is 2 inches of suspension travel left. The spring constant is roughly equal to the old constant multiplied by the length ratio, so the spring can absorb only 250 lb of force before the suspension bottoms out.

If a 2 inch lowering spring with a spring constant of 200 lb/in is fitted, the spring will be able to absorb 400 lb/in before the suspension bottoms out, as was the case with the stock spring.

Thanks! Muddy picture is most recent.

I figure good shocks and the stiffer springs will be fine. The car handles much better now anyway.

3X00-Modified wrote:

woody90gtz wrote: Cutting springs isn't really a big deal. Cutting them actually makes the spring rate stiffer anyway.

I guess you didn't read a single word in the link I posted about that...

It all depends on the design of the original spring, the spring travel and travel lost, so that statement is not true for all springs, it may make the rate stiffer but the amount of travel lost vs the stiffness gained is not sufficient to absorb the same amount of force as the original spring with its original travel.

No, Jon...I understand it. How often does anyone hit the bump stops with stock suspension anyway? Ever? I haven't.

This whole board is so argumentative lately...

argumentative or not your statement is only half of the result... sorry for pointing that out and making it sound like I'm arguing. Simply clearing up partial info.

I guess I just find it odd that something that was once called ghetto rigging or hacking a car is now being tagged as "ok" And the last time I drove in a lowered beretta with stock struts it would bottom out on the suspension quite easily, and to think that the spring rate of those are higher than the cut ones would lead me to believe that you would bottom out all the time on the cut ones. Maybe your not thinking the same way as I am, no you may not bottom out on stock suspension because you have 4" of travel and only using 3", cut that travel in half and only increase your rate by 25%... That would leave you to bottom out all the time.

Splitting hairs now... My ride is at least as good as stock and the handling is better. That's my take on it...

I know I'm just a newb to Berettas, but that's how it was for me.

That's about as good of a analysis as the butt dyno... Sorry but it's true.

Unless you've done side by side autox testing then it's simply an opinion on your style of driving, it doesn't mean the result will be the same or usable for others. That's why I'm trying to clarify all of the info regarding it.

DTMAce wrote:Ok, this post makes no sense.



And good luck hitting 550. Best I have done was 526 I think it was @ 36MPG. And that was with a V6 3100 Auto.

I get 550-625 on average in my 96 3100 auto... 550 if i hammer on it the whole time, and closer to 650 if i drive like a old man.

DTMAce wrote:

SuzukiGhostRider wrote:Wheel bearings are almost as simple as the job gets on these cars. Takes about 5-10 minutes per side. Literally...

Does that include dropping the ball joints so you can pull the axles to change the rear bearing cover/seals? LOL

I doubt it!

As for bearing prices, go to RockAuto.com, look up Timken brands. They aren't too bad usually and will do fine.

Why exactly are you dropping the ball joint to change the seal??

is it a seal on the inside of the hub? therefore the axle needs to come out to get to it? so you drop the ball joint to swing out the strut assembly and pull the axle out temporarily.

beretta wrote:

DTMAce wrote:Ok, this post makes no sense.



And good luck hitting 550. Best I have done was 526 I think it was @ 36MPG. And that was with a V6 3100 Auto.

I get 550-625 on average in my 96 3100 auto... 550 if i hammer on it the whole time, and closer to 650 if i drive like a old man.

Um, sure you are. Sorry but not believing that one. I can't even see the 4 cylinder 5 spd getting that high. You have something that shows this? You use Fuelly at all?

SuzukiGhostRider wrote:

DTMAce wrote:

SuzukiGhostRider wrote:Wheel bearings are almost as simple as the job gets on these cars. Takes about 5-10 minutes per side. Literally...

Does that include dropping the ball joints so you can pull the axles to change the rear bearing cover/seals? LOL

I doubt it!

As for bearing prices, go to RockAuto.com, look up Timken brands. They aren't too bad usually and will do fine.

Why exactly are you dropping the ball joint to change the seal??

Did you not read my post? You have to pull the axles out of the housing to change the rear bearing seals. There is no other way to get the axle out of the hole to get the seal swapped. Simple as that. Check the pics here, so you know what I mean...

http://www.beretta.net/forum/viewtopic. ... &start=285

Not that hard, figured even you would know this... lol

Let me put it a different way.....

WHY do you feel the need to pull the ball joint to get the axle out????

Yes, Ace, I do know how to change the seals. I ALSO know that 90% of the time it's COMPLETELY unnecessary...

I also know about 10 times more than you ever will about working on cars....

Yes, 10 minutes tops PER SIDE to change wheel bearings on an L body. No, I wasn't referring to the rear hub seal as it's , as stated, is completely unnecessary most of the time.......

Ok, so how the hell else are you going to change those seals? Pull the tranny? That is the only way I have ever seen them done.... Show me or explain another method?

Sure, they may not be always necessary, but I found out what happens when they don't get changed. It can all rust together as my thread showed.. And as usual, you get all excited and cap happy and ... Ah hell with it..

It's relatively easy to remove half shafts without touching the strut bolts or ball joints..... Experience helps...

Remove wheel
Remove axle nut and washer
Unplug ABS sensor if necessary
Remove caliper and rotor,hang aside
Remove TR end from strut (and direct acting sway bar links if applicable)
Push axle most of the way back through the hub
Turn hub assembly towards engine front way and pull or push axle out the rest of the way

Done.

SuzukiGhostRider wrote: Remove TR end from strut (and direct acting sway bar links if applicable)

What the heck is TR and can you elaborate this. Not making sense.

Not coming up with what TR is supposed to be, but I will be sure to feel like an idiot when its pointed out.

All I know is, the axle will not come out, no matter which way or how far you rotate the wheel/knuckle front to back. I have tried.

Even the repair steps I have found both in my manual and online describe it the same way I have always done it.

TR - Tie Rod