Beretta.net

Just lie to it and make it think there is still a 1 bar in it. Then adjust your tables accordingly. You lose resolution but that's what I would think to do. What about running a 98 GTP ECU?

98 GTP ecu has the same resolution as the 97 would when I'm done... They do exactly what I'm going to do to make the 2 bar work.

That's one of the great things about jon.He'll sit there and work at it until it's finished to the best of his ability.He doesn't just want to take money from you and leave you empty handed.Jon put in lots of time helping me.And i really appreciate everything he has done=) Hope everything goes smoothly!!!

coolest thing ever to see values of 120kpa in scanning logs... lol 2-bar MAP was a success.

I'm going to post some pics today and bring this thread back from the dead.. I'll put some up of the new intake routing and things I had to change to make it work, By the way if anyone was wondering John and I finally got done with that volumetric efficiency tune and were now into the MAF tune, But the roads here have been covered with salt since about a week before Christmas so my girl has been sitting waiting patiently..

Ok here they are, keep in mind my strut caps and billet accessory caps are at anodize so their missingg.

Current Engine Mods List:

-Vortech VF-9 ProCharger
-Vortech Bypass Valve
-8psi Billet Aluminum Pulley
-Comptech Aftercooler
-Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
-42.5lb Lucas Injectors
-SS Braided Oil Feed + Oil Return
-Full synthetic SynPower Oil Swap
-GlowShift Tinted Gauges & Pod
-3400 Block
-3500 Ported and Polished Upper Intake
-3500 Ported and Polished Lower Intake
-3500 Ported and Polished Heads
-Felpro SD Headgaskets
-LX5 65mm Throttle Body
-Motor Oil Cooler,
-True Spectre Cold Air Intake
-2 Bar MAP
-180* T-Stat
-Equal Length 1 5/8" Primary V6 Headers
-FULL 2.5" Exhaust
-High Flow Cat
-Magnaflow XLTurbo Dual Tip Stainless Muffler
-8.2mm Taylor ThunderVolt Wires
-6061 Aluminum Overdrive Alternator Pulley
-4 Awg BIG 3 Rewire
-Battery Relocation To Trunk
-NGK One Stage Colder Iridium Plugs
-EGR Delete
-ABS Delete
-A/C Delete

Cowl hood waiting for paintt


My 10 gauges to monitor my girl


Dual-Tone engine bay






So i found out that having the intake cone in the fender was a must due to the fact that the MAF has to be in a good spot so its also in the wheel well.
I also had to fab the rad hose to snake down and around the S/C, and has to fab up a bypass re-circulation out of rad hoses so the MAF wouldn't screw everything up..
Also had to order a brass IAT sensor and mill/tap a block that i put on the intake tubing, which you can see on the right near the spectre coupler.
Also had to do the obvious and Drill/tap the oil pan for the oil return and fab up a TEE setup on the oil pressure sender to use as a feed.
Also had to fab up the bracket to make this S/C work with my 4t60-e and also that block on the end of the shaft near the pulley so it has support against the h20 pump.
Also i heli-coiled most of the holes so there's no chance of stripping.
Also installed my mini oil catch can on the PCV tubing, which is working rather well.

I was planning on turning a 2.8" pulley so i would make 8psi at 6000prm but im not sure i would like my engine to take that much abuse as a DD in the summer..
I also plan on getting all T-Bolt type clamps and ditch the worm drive ones
Also plan on installing phenolic spacers now that i have my cowl induction, you may not be able to see but the aftercooler pour cap is right under my intake, so i basicly need the spacers to raise/straighten it so i can fill it without removing the intake tubing..

Also wanted to ask how many S/C beretta's there are out there, or if im the only one anymore..
Let me know what you think, and no i have not taken it to the track or even really beat on it because the tune is still not finished,
Lmk what everyone's guess of EST 1/4 mile and WHP would be, i plan on dynoing in the spring..

Damn. Gone are the days of the Quad eh? lol

Looks good! If I had to guess, I would say the Felpro HG will be the first thing you will have problem with on the engine With just GM (or Cometic) HG and decent valve springs, you would increase reliability a lot!

Norm Crowe had a SC mounted in the alternator spot on his old 88 GT with a built 3.1.

Scott "McGavin" had an M90 mounted onto his custom intake manifold on a stock 3400 in his 5spd swapped 94 Z26.

But neither of those guys are involved anymore on here, so that leaves you that we know of.

I have stiffer springs ive just been waiting until it warms up a bit to swap them, and i used SD headgaskets which ive heard are rather good, ill just have to wait and see

Looking awesome! I like it.

Nice! Looks really good! The two-tone reminds me of a sexy Ruger SR9c.. You're running a pre-MAF system? That's cool
I use both t-clamps and worm clamps. To be honest, I have less issues with the worm style. I was blowing off the t-clamps rather often at 10psi but never really had issues with the worm style. (The first time you hear the boom of a hose blowing at full boost is kinda scary..) I also get having to space up the intake.. The pipes route a whole lot better when the plenum is up an inch. With the good tune, I wouldn't be too worried about DDing it (after you put in the springs). I have 3k on mine with a very basic tune with 0 issues.

With hp/time I would guess around 300 hp and low 13s?

You're building my dream. I can't wait to supercharge a 660 someday. I do have Scott's engine mounts from the supercharged beast, but that's the closest I'm going to get to that for a long time, haha.

I think your very optimistic Z26_T
I think with my mods it will give around 250whp-260whp and high 13's, but ill have to wait and see.. And im unsure what you mean by pre-maf, it has a maf before the S/C if thats what you mean, and since the air is recirculated from the bypass to after the maf it works out fine..And i might just keep the work style than.

And snowblindbird i'd like to say this is my dream but my dream is a cammed/SC retta on about 12-14 psi, but at that point everything starts breaking, and you also cant stop breaking the tires loose, so im happy where i am currently..

It's a suck through MAF with reciric valve... The blow through setup wasn't working because the MAF was registering air when the engine wasn't using it... the BOV was 6" before the MAF sensor and it wasn't allowing all the air out so the air would blow through the maf hit the TB and circulate back out causing bad readings.

This way works great and the car runs the way it should.... I'm sure if he had more engine bay space, or a Air to Air IC and more pip before the MAF a non reciric system might work but with what he had it just wasn't happening.