Beretta.net

I know what it should be, that's why I'm still looking to correct the problem. Most people say 12.8 with anywhere from 12.5-13 acceptable. I noticed when I was looking through my current BIN that lean cruise is disabled too, so I'm going to switch that on. So at 50+mph with high vacuum and low TPS it should be 15.2:1. I may even be able to modify it close to 16:1.

I read some really good tutorials on thirdgen.org about OBDI tuning. So it's time to bust out the Autoprom.

Rich idle is/should be due to a improper VE table, or your using a really weird MAP sensor that is improperly scaled in your bin. That's the only thing that controls idle fueling other than injector sizing. You don't have a maf like I do so yous doesn't adjust off of that.

I wouldnt be messing with lean cruise quite yet... Get the rich idle ironed out. Then move to that if you want to try and save gas.

You know looking of that picture with your hood up it looks like you have more pine tree on your vent under your windsheild then I do! 94mph isn't bad at all by the way my stock Civic SI would pull about 86mph a run so your beating most imports that every one makes looks nice but doesn't do jack to under the hood. Love the way the red looks but where did you get the transparent vinal for it? Also 3x00 have you ever looked into getting your MAF disabled? I'm lucky to have the sticker on mine stating it has been worked over.

Tested the new BIN yesterday and sent Dave the datalog. It's still rich at idle, but he must have changed the closed loop timers because it auto-corrects sooner now. I'm going to see what he has to say about this one (I'm not sure exactly what he did) and then start making adjustments on my own. I think I'm ready.

Start tuning yourself!

Its easy and much quicker than tuning by mail. Thats like playing checkers by mail

[quote="Barry"Thats like playing checkers by mail[/quote]
i thought everyone played like that.

E tuning FTL. you probably could have had this tuned by now. im not saying Dave is a moron completely the opposite but it seems like you spend a lot of time waiting.

its not rocket science just take your time and don't go nuts with changes.

I did a BIN compare in TunerPro and got a look at the changes he made. He did change the closed loop timers to quicker and some idle VE adjustments. What he did makes sense to me...lowered the VE at low map which means high vacuum. Logical solution...

Today I took Tiff's brother for a ride to do a Dynolicious 1/4 mile run and it's the first time I've put this chip at WOT and the AFR was 11:1! Felt like crap...and the iPod confirmed it: 15.6@91 (with an easy launch, 2.6 60'). I'm not sure how accurate that is, because any tilt of the ipod during the run will throw it off and he was holding it by hand...but it definitely felt weak at 11:1.

Put the ipod in your ash tray/cupholder in the center console. It fits well and is accurate.

You better be in the 14's!

woody90gtz wrote:Today I took Tiff's brother for a ride to do a Dynolicious 1/4 mile run and it's the first time I've put this chip at WOT and the AFR was 11:1! Felt like crap...and the iPod confirmed it: 15.6@91 (with an easy launch, 2.6 60'). I'm not sure how accurate that is, because any tilt of the ipod during the run will throw it off and he was holding it by hand...but it definitely felt weak at 11:1.

I'll bring the gas can to NE if you bring the lighter...

Barry wrote:Put the ipod in your ash tray/cupholder in the center console. It fits well and is accurate.

You better be in the 14's!

Ok, I will do it there and get a datalog at the same time too to monitor the AFR through the run.

It will be in the 14s, don't you worry. With the first chip it felt a lot faster than the 95, but this one was pig rich at WOT. This latest chip sucks. It's pig rich at WOT & idle, stoich at part throttle most of the time, but still lean & hesitant at part throttle right after a start up. It's cooler out this morning and I could feel it hesitate a couple times and the gauge said 16-17:1. So I think I'll have to put the closed loop timers back where they were and probably the lower VE tables too and start over with his baseline chip.

3X00-Modified wrote:

woody90gtz wrote:Today I took Tiff's brother for a ride to do a Dynolicious 1/4 mile run and it's the first time I've put this chip at WOT and the AFR was 11:1! Felt like crap...and the iPod confirmed it: 15.6@91 (with an easy launch, 2.6 60'). I'm not sure how accurate that is, because any tilt of the ipod during the run will throw it off and he was holding it by hand...but it definitely felt weak at 11:1.

I'll bring the gas can to NE if you bring the lighter...

Yeah...

I'm trying to figure out what could make it so pig rich at idle, but lean it out to the point it stumbles at part throttle when you adjust the idle VE tables down. Seems to me the idle VE table shouldnt even effect the part throttle stuff, and the idle is still rich even with the tables turned down.

Haven't heard back from Dave yet either...he must be as busy as I am.

I don't want to sound like a dick.... But it sounds like the tuning process for my car was a bit easier. OBDII I'm referring to obviously... but you are just learning and I know going through mail order tune blows since Dave probably will not tell you exactly what he's doing.

Do you have any PE or AE tables you could modify?

To be quite honest too, I would NOT be paying attention to the wideband at part throttle and such... that is more of a WOT tuning tool only, and yeah Open loop start up. But other than that you should be paying attention to your learning trims, the BLM and such... Thats how you tune part throttle.

VE is all you have for OBDI tuning... so yes your VE controls everything, part, idle, and WOT. It's how it determines how much fuel to use at certain load values. For OBDII they use that in conjunction with the MAF to determine fueling. As I asked, I'm not sure if you have PE table like me, when I go WOT it goes into a PE/open loop type mode with a set a/f value, obviously its not dead on, but if you tweak your MAF and your IFR values enough to be spot on, you can make the A/F its requesting be the same as your wideband, but that takes a lot of perfection in the tune.

3X00-Modified wrote:I don't want to sound like a dick.... But it sounds like the tuning process for my car was a bit easier. OBDII I'm referring to obviously... but you are just learning and I know going through mail order tune blows since Dave probably will not tell you exactly what he's doing.

my car wasn't this much of a pain in the balls. once i got rid of the lazy bosch o2 sensor and replaced it with a denso it been good from that day.

Dave isn't going to tell you what he's doing. that would be the equivalent of Ben telling everyone exactly what he does when he ports heads.

I have VE, AE & PE tables to modify, as well as a "commanded AFR vs coolant temp" IIRC.

I thought about changing my 1-wire NB o2 sensor to the heated one from my 95 I have kicking around.

Jon, why would you not pay attention to the wb at part throttle? I could feel a hesitation and it was at 16:1 so obviously it was hesitating because it was lean. Seems like a pretty good thing to know in order to try to correct it... I know that when the BLMs become steady the wb reads 14.7, so the BLM adjustment is accurate.

Dave has been pretty good with anything I have asked him, however I agree.

He's not going to tell you 'everything".

But then again who said he was perfect? He obviously knows his stuff, but he didn't invent it.

And Ben is NEVER going to tell anyone what he does to the heads and such.

If I have the heads off mine over the winter I'm willing to let anyone have a look and take measurements.