Beretta.net

I did not measure those this AM, I forgot... sorry man. I'll do it when I get home tonight. All I know is the 3100 large port plenum is really close to the curve of the USBody hood and without that hood the plenum would definitely hit a stock hood. Hell the 3500 upper with the thin TCE spacers I had hit the stock dampening in the hood, so with these I'm sure it would have hit... the 3500 design with the bolt being way higher than the 3100 and 3400 style is what causes it to hit... the curve of the #1 cylinder port fits right up into the cowl.

I like your coil mounting. The strut tower was just too far away. Damn lucky that you have that hood or it would have been on the strut tower(lol).

Money pit Beretta wrote:I like your coil mounting. The strut tower was just too far away. Damn lucky that you have that hood or it would have been on the strut tower(lol).

I don't even think it would have fit on the strut tower... it would have been WAY over on the tower if I had to though... everywhere else something was in the way. I could have flipped the stock 3500 coil bracket upside down and that fit over the lines, but it raised the coils quite a bit, they still fit under the hood but aesthetic wise I did not like how it looked when looking at the engine, this way you see the coil tops like before and the wires coming off, plus it wont be opposite so the ICM connector and crank sensor wire should reach without having to modify them any.

Slinky wrote:

3X00-Modified wrote:With the spacers the engine barely fit under the hood, it's actually one of the two reasons why I went back to the 3100 plenum the corner of the 3500 one would hit the hood I believe, I was going to put the blocks on top of the intake but there just isn't enough clearance. Plus this ends up working better with the ICM and Coils. That is the intake I will be using now though.

what did you find you spacer thickness to be Jon?
Theres someone on here i cannot remember who but they are running two sets of 3/8 phenolic spacers i believe

I'm running two sets of 1/2 inch spacers, but I had to notch the hood frame for it to work. I was hoping/thinking that the cowl hood would fit without having to notch it.

I wish I could run a 3500 UIM but it's not going to work..

Guess the strut tower works for the Cavy guys because it's smaller and there is less stuff.
Hell you could have done a vert mount there(LOL).

Z26_T wrote:

Slinky wrote:

3X00-Modified wrote:With the spacers the engine barely fit under the hood, it's actually one of the two reasons why I went back to the 3100 plenum the corner of the 3500 one would hit the hood I believe, I was going to put the blocks on top of the intake but there just isn't enough clearance. Plus this ends up working better with the ICM and Coils. That is the intake I will be using now though.

what did you find you spacer thickness to be Jon?
Theres someone on here i cannot remember who but they are running two sets of 3/8 phenolic spacers i believe

I'm running two sets of 1/2 inch spacers, but I had to notch the hood frame for it to work. I was hoping/thinking that the cowl hood would fit without having to notch it.

I wish I could run a 3500 UIM but it's not going to work..

Yeah I'm going to shave mine down to around half inch I guess so that they will fit

All I have to say is this flare tool is friken awesome... It took me less than 1 min to make a PERFECT 45* double flare... and it was effortless! and that was on stainless tubing too! I also made a GM bubble and it looks sweet! as well as the GM Fuel which is seen more on PS lines and I also made a GM quick disconnect fitting... They all worked perfect. Honestly for the convenience factor I can not complain on the price.

I have a PS pulley tool showing up soon so I can disassemble my pump and rebuild it since that has apparently been a big leaker on my car.

You did a wonderful job with neating up all of my fuel and power steering lines:)

And if I had this tool when I did your car I still would have done some things differently.

So slight dilemma... I guess you could call it. Spoke with the guy who got me all my direct port stuff and he informed me that having all the supply lines be equal length really isnt that necessary... SO the question is do I re-do the lines to make them straighter and more direct, or do I just leave them the way they are because they look sweet...





I also made my coil bracket last night so that should be all set.

Didn't you have a tower brace? Is that going to be an issue?

Yes I do, but I've already tested this in the car... I actually took the stock 3500 coil mounting bracket and flipped it upside down and even that cleared the brace so this will easily clear.

Oh, well cool. And hell, leave the lines like they are, if you have already put in the time to make them like that.

No sense in redoing the lines unless it gives you more room to work. Hard to tell depth from the pic, but can you get the oil cap off with all the lines connected?

woody90gtz wrote:No sense in redoing the lines unless it gives you more room to work. Hard to tell depth from the pic, but can you get the oil cap off with all the lines connected?

With that front valve cover, no... But with the 3500 one yes... I already placed this setup on the car and it fit well... it's not as easy to get off but if it's a pain all I need to do is loosen 6 nuts and the whole tube assy will move, Much easier than having to remove a SC to change an oil filter on a Cobalt... LOL