Beretta.net

Woody, ill agree with you there the stainless steel goodrich lines are IF not sure why they made them that way since stock lines are bubble. I put those same lines on my red car and well I had to redo the front flare because of rust and the rears but it was the line between the rear and the cylinder that caught my attention on the change, I had to buy a bubble to IF adapter on the cylinder to match the new line I made.

i take it your doin the hybrid swap???? if your tearing into your engine. i just started pulling apart the suspension in my car and awaiting for hardware for addco rr sway bar and i may take it appon myself to do my own brackets in the back as some1 on v6z24 has w small write-up on how he did it nd doesnt look all that hard

IIRC he is only doing the LIMG since those are stock and they appear to be seeping a little.

I actually thought he was ahead of me... I really only have to get my headers sand blasted, get the v-band clamp installed and then coat them... And put my trans back together, but I just need on part tig welded before going back in to add some extra strength.

Yup, just the LIMG for me. I've still got a ways to go, cause I'm doing suspension too and need to fab an FE7 bracket.

The guys on v6z24 found a problem with the TCE clutch master & slave fittings I bought. Apparently the fittings wont fit in the master and need to be machined down on a lathe. I'm going to try to take a look at it tonight and see.

Thats kinda shitty that TCE makes something that doesn't fit. Is it made for a different application?

It's for our application. Lots of the MG guys use them with a custom-length braided line to use GM hydraulics when they do a 60* swap.

http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/drillin ... rt,45.html

Bad night tonight. Very bad. I found a nasty crack in my bellhousing that turned into a chunk missing once I removed the bolt. It's right where the lower part of the upper trans bracket bolts on. Probably caused by a combination of the clearanced upper bracket for the headers and my all-poly drivetrain mounts. Might have cracked right when I got the nasty wheel hop at the strip in Sept. I called a friend and I'm taking the bell over so he can TIG it at work next week.

And I also found out that the FE7 brackets are moved about 1" down and 3/4" back compared to the tabs...and my custom endlinks wont clear the bracket (because the sleeve is more bulky than the heims).

Ouch on the tranny.

For the clutch line I would just take your stock one to a hydro shop and replicate it. The slaves changed at least 3 times throughout the years and who knows how many master cylinders gm used.

Unless its an optical illusion, it looks like the FE7 unit's strut to knuckle bolts are higher on the strut body than they are on the KYB replacement unit. You want to stand them up and measure the bolt holes from the ground up? I've always had a theory that GM FE7 struts were shorter - which would explain the lowered ride height for an FE7 car (that I dont see nonFE7 cars achieving with fe7 springs).

But if they're not shorter, placing those mounting holes even a half inch higher on the mounting plate could be the difference.

you may want to consider having your intakes ported for extra kick before you put it back together i know i would while your that far

Interesting idea, Kurt. I'll take a look to be sure, but I think they're the same.

Made some progress since it was a nice weekend, I think it hit 40 yesterday! I even think I'm done tearing down now, so it should all be reassembly from here.

Got the axle out of the trans finally after I split the case. Had to stretch the axle clip enough to take it out from the back side through the diff (which doesnt have much room with the lsd springs in the way.) Gave the bellhousing to a friend to get TIG'd. Installed the adapter fittings & braided line for the clutch master & slave. Worked perfect with no mods...unlike the Z24 guy. So I'm not sure what the difference is there... Pulled the LIM and was happy to see everything was nice & clean. I knew the oil & coolant had always looked good every time I checked it, so the LIM must have just been seeping a little at the lifter valley. Decided to strip & refinish the LIM & valve covers since it was apart and had seen prettier days in '06. I should be painting tomorrow & buttoning her back up soon.

KFLO 93 GT, The difference in the FE7 mounting location is because of the years, 90-91 (bracket design) had shorter links than 92+ that used the tabs welded on the struts.

The ride height difference came from hand selected springs, the spring supplier back then had quite a big tolerances...

Paint your valve covers black you tool... not chevy orange like a redneck.

3X00-Modified wrote:Paint your valve covers black you tool... not chevy orange like a redneck.

Fat chance! And here's a little secret...the rear calipers will be red too!

Also, I'm thinking I'll have to brace my upper trans bracket somehow to keep the bellhousing from cracking again. It was clearanced for the headers, because it's extremely tight at the crossover where the tubes go from 3-1...but I'm betting that weak bracket was the root cause. The bolt hole that broke was the one at the intact part of the upper bracket, which means it was supporting all the weight.

So it looks like I'll have to install the trans on the engine with the front header and figure out some bracing for that bracket that will clear. It might end up looking pretty ugly! haha