Beretta.net

The metal Fel-Pro intake gaskets are reusable. Be smart and change them now while it's open. I left my head gaskets alone but did the LIMG due to its high failure rate.

Are you talking about the FEL-PRO Part # MS98003T Permadry plus? That's not a bad deal then. I suppose I will.

I'm just back and forth on this 3500 top end thing though... I can get the whole setup for about $150 +/- + shipping... but then you have to get the $60 TB adaptor, machine work done, and more gaskets. Then I almost feel like I should do the cam...

Yes, that's the PN. They are reusable. I actually already did the intake manifold twice on my truck with those same style gaskets.

If you use a 3400 UIM you dont need a TB adapter or machine work.

Yeah but don't you get a good bit more power with the 3500 upper? More flow?

Pennzoil Syncromesh was right on the shelf at my local advance auto.

Jon what cam are you running in your car? I got a price for resurfacing, valve job, and checking a pair of v6 heads from my local shop, not too bad... I may go out all with this build afterall. Faark I hate being so back and forth on this thing...

If I did it I'm tempted to put my Milzy stage 2 cam in... from what you said earlier, there is no real valvetrain upgrade required? I looked through my Boner box of stuff the other day, it had LS1? valve springs in it, some copper shims (can't remember what for), 1 pack of what look like ARP head studs (only 8 head studs?), a pack of ARP connecting rod bolts, and a few other things like header locks and header flanges and such. Oh, and some pushrods, I can't remember if they were Chromoly or whatever, I'll have to ask Boner again what he sold me.

I guess the biggest thing would be tuning, I wonder if that Superdave guy could efficiently tune/burn a memcal for a 3400/3500 hybrid with the Milzy cam...

My cam is a custom ground one that Ben did for my nitrous setup... it's his old stage 3 boost cam, not the best for a NA application unless you just want alot of lope... lol.

As far as the rest of the stuff you bought, it sounds like you just bought everything Boner had not even knowing what to do with it... or what combination is even needed.

There should be 8 long and 8 short head studs, the pushrods are probably paired with the cam since once you change the base circle you need a longer pushrod, the springs are probably LS6 Yellows, and you need the LS1 copper shims to go under the spring since the stock valve seat will not fit, also you need Cavi 2.2 valve seals to complete that package if you desire to use it. For milzy's stage 2 cam you will need the LS6 springs or something similar.

Info about the springs.

http://wot-tech.com/shop/gm-60v6/ls6-sp ... d_137.html

I did the same before my build.I didn't want to waste money and not have it turn out right.
I know superdave tuned alxsmt car before he swapped to mega squirt.
He ran a 13.6 which is the fastest 3400 i believe ever.It will take work but thats any tune.
If you have almost everything i would go for it=)

Started working on the engine a little bit today. Wired the old MPFI injector harness for the Multec 2s, that was kinda fun... as I was retaping it I realized I forgot to resolder those old joints... oh well, I'm sure they're fine. I'll post some pics up later.

Began to take things off the engine that I'm not gonna use... I imagine I could try to sell the 3400 upper end and exhaust manifolds if I go 3500 (which I'm leaning towards)...

I realize now Jon why the ARP headbolts I was talking about earlier are 2 different sizes... Duh... I was looking at them and I was like why the hell are they different sizes? I've only got one set??? I was thinking the other set was for the mains but I got it now... so that's good, I have a whole set of ARP head studs. Anyone know the torque specs or install details on those? The only thing I really need to use loctite on is my flywheel bolts right? I can't think of anything else that I need to loctite.

Here's my current list of parts I'm getting from Rock Auto... some are pretty cheap, I just wonder if they'll be of good quality...

Anchor Trans mount 17.72
Anchor Rear right engine mount 19.85
Anchor Front right engine mount 9.90
Dorman Clutch Master cylinder 34.79
Dorman Clutch Slave cylinder 30.79
Autobest fuel pump 30.79
Bosch Upstream 02 sensor 12.23
Gates Vented Radiator cap 2.82
2x FEL-PRO PermaTorque Severe Duty head gasket 42.58
FEL-PRO Intake Manifold Gasket Set PermaDryPlus (For an 05 Malibu, not sure that it matters yeary by year or car to car?) 66.79
Gates Upper radiator hose for a 99 Montana 11.62 (what I read was the best hose for the swap...)
Dayco Lower radiator hose for 94 3.1 Cavalier 20.79 (read on domestic crew that this is the best hose to go with?)
Total with shipping $326

Outside of Rockauto...
Radiator Classic 2.8 V6 radiator $51.41 free shipping... Found on ebay, anyone ever heard of this brand or think it's an ok radiator? I'm trying to save money but I want it to be worth a crap...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-1-Row ... es&vxp=mtr
Flexalite Dual fan like I have in my Quad $265 + shipping
Fidanza flywheel $286

I had 2 options for head gaskets on rock auto, the regular felpro permatorques and then the felpro permatorques severe duty... There's like a $5 price difference on these 2 gaskets... I would assume the severe duty is what everyone goes with...

Anyhow, here are the pics from the work I did tonight.


Went ahead and tore the engine down.


LIMG going bad early? Guess it's a good thing I went ahead and did this...


Nasssssssssssty crudded up motor... What in the hell makes it get this shitty looking at 40k miles?


Pretty nasty engine bay that I'll clean up... hey my bays paint is nicer than the exterior, go figure...


Disgusting trans... I guess that's my next step is getting that apart and getting what I need off the old motor then I can scrap it. I noticed that my midshaft is the type that bolts up to the transmission, kinda weird, not like the quad where it just pops out.


I've found that on a newer motor any PS pump with an electric plug on it you can't use...? Guess I can't use this one? Piss.


The ends of these injectors look shitty, especially the little rubber fittings, they're in pretty bad shape, what can I do about those?


Am I suppose to replace these whole lines from the ends of the fuel rails, or just modify the ends for brass fitings? I've found multiple methods...


Rewired injector harness.


Parts from Boner. Only 6 pushrods? Only 10 ARP washers for my head studs? Errr...?


Custom headers from Boner.






Stage 2 Milzy cam. I think I'm gonna wait on this.

Out of curiousity, what's the most you can bore a 3400? (or 3500?). What's the highest compression anyones seen on a built 3x00? Anyone ever done a stroker? These were things I had in mind for the fullout build I'll do eventually.

wow those are the under oil pan headers that superdave made IIRC...

hope you have good ground clearance... lol

And the head studs are just snug in the block and then the top nut you tighten to 75 ftlbs.

Nobody knows about any of the stuff I asked about? Particularly the felpro headgaskets? The power steering pump? The fuel lines? The fuel injector fittings/ends?

i had trouble with the fuel lines. that guy from wisconsin with the 89gt from bstuff he just cut the end off the rubber lines and used t-bolt clamps to connect both sides together. i tried and couldnt figure that out. haha

Get the sever duty ones... I've popped the standard ones way too often... you could also go with GM ones if you wanted.

The PS pump, if it fits use it... its just a pressure switch for the ECU to see if the PS pump is working.. Certain years used those for our cars, (older ones) and the newer ones opted to not have that sensor, On the older versions it was screwed into one of the lines near the firewall though.

The fuel injectors, just go get new o-rings... really simple...

And the fuel lines... Thats up to you... Just remember to use good brand fittings whatever you do... Advance sells those quick disconnect lines that you can use compression fittings on to adapt to your stock line, but it all depends on what your line ends at on the body... you need to find a way to adapt, or go direct... which ever is easier. 3100 equipped cars its much easier and you just re-use your old fuel lines and rail.

Carson21R wrote:i had trouble with the fuel lines. that guy from wisconsin with the 89gt from bstuff he just cut the end off the rubber lines and used t-bolt clamps to connect both sides together. i tried and couldnt figure that out. haha

And you still think the engine you had was the reason why your car wouldn't run.

Roberts 89GT had these ends on his body lines... the female version,



I had two lines with the fittings pictured above that adapted to the newer style clip disconnect, ends looked like this the left hand side on the bottom.



The return line worked fine, but the feed line was not working with the way it was bent, and it was such a short adapter I could not bend it properly to work. I had to cut off the quick disconnect that you pictured above from the fuel rail to get just a rubber line and buy the fitting pictured first with a straight metal pipe on it, I bent it to the right direction to work flared the end and then put that in the rubber line and clamped it using fuel injection clamp. I would have rather had a no clamp system but the fittings out there just didn't exist unless I had a tool to make the quick disconnect style end, or the rubber o-ring style end which I do not. If you do any metal line to rubber with fuel, always flare the end a bit so its larger than the standard diameter that way when the clamps in place its almost like being on a barb type end, it can't slide by the flare.