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Header coating fail. The whole day for me was pretty much a complete wreck... But anyway the header coating was so thick it had the consistency of pudding, and would not spray at all, even at 60psi. I called TechLine just as everyone was leaving and only got the shipping guy who took notes for the technical staff. He was thinking it might be defective batch, so I gave him the batch number. I guess I'll find out tmo.

There is a place in Buffalo one of the NastyZ guys is raving about. If all else fails I can have the headers coated there pretty quickly. I'll know more tmo.
http://www.powdersystemstech.com/

Thats what you get for trying to put something shiny on your dull ass car.... LMAO

3X00-Modified wrote:Thats what you get for trying to put something shiny on your dull ass car.... LMAO

haha i thought Eric was anti shiny crap anyway.

haha

Well the one big plus of shiny crap is it's easier to clean. I've found over time than anything flat is a bitch once it's dirty. My old man actually had to respray his flat black impala because he couldn't get water spots, etc. off it.

Wait till you see how dirty your dull'd intake pipes will get

3X00-Modified wrote:Wait till you see how dirty your dull'd intake pipes will get

They already are. That's why I planned to coat them to match the headers.

Tech Line called back and said it sounded way too thick and I should reduce it with acetone. I have my doubts that it will work, but we'll see I guess.

Fail. I added twice their recommended maximum amount of acetone and it was still way too thick. I sent them pics and they told me the history behind their CGSA...it used to be a 1-part and they changed it to a 2-part to resolve issues with gelling before use. As a 2-part now you just mix part A & B together, and then shoot. Apparently I got a "part A" that was already mixed and a part B...which meant double the part B needed, and the pre-mixed part A was already gelled. They're telling me tmo how long it will take to get new stuff. If it's too long, I'm going to send my headers to Buffalo to be done.

Now, I test fit the headers with the trans & trans brackets to see about welding in a brace for the upper bracket...and there's no simple solution, so I need to sleep on it and keep thinking about it tmo. I need to be able to carry the load from the front bellhousing to block bolt to the lower bracket bolt that goes to the bellhousing by the trans case side. The upper bracket has two bolts to the engine and two to the lower bracket. The lower bracket has the two bolts from the upper bracket and two bolts to the trans side of the bellhousing.









These pics to show how the bracket was clearanced when I bought the car and how I strengthened it back in '09 before assembly (which apparently wasn't enough to keep the bellhousing from cracking at the single load-bearing bolt of the lower bracket).

WOW, that motor looks so...........clean! I love it. On a side note, what is the best type of spark plug for the 3100? I haven't put new plugs in since 2004, I figure its time.

AC Delco I run those normally but with the nitrous I stick with the NGK V-power ones due to good reviews.

Epic fail on that bracket modification... DAMN... I didn't realize how much you had to hack out to make those headers clear.

Well, it was pre-hacked by Shane when I bought it. haha I tried to strengthen it as much as possible with a plate and filling the stray cut grooves with weld...but that firewall side bolt is obviously the only one holding the load.

The bottom header tube is already dimpled to clear the bellhousing too...so I can't pick up any room there. I'd like to somehow get a brace welded in there from the upper or lower bracket to that next bellhousing to engine bolt under the headers.

92+ mounts FTW

Here's a crazy idea...what about filling the top of the bellhousing with JB Weld after running a couple studs in for the lower bracket? The top part of the bellhousing is dead space, and all that extra mass might help it spread the load better?

woody90gtz wrote:Here's a crazy idea...what about filling the top of the bellhousing with JB Weld after running a couple studs in for the lower bracket? The top part of the bellhousing is dead space, and all that extra mass might help it spread the load better?

Redneck....

woody90gtz wrote:I'd like to somehow get a brace welded in there from the upper or lower bracket to that next bellhousing to engine bolt under the headers.

Preferred...

There's my 0.02

edit
Looking at the bracket closer, I now see that there is a plate bolted to the bell housing and then bolted to the bracket... I think thats the part thats holding most of the weight up, the only thing that the rest of that bracket does thats headed to the bellhousing to block bolts, is prevents that piece from trying to bend downward, or allow the trans to drop... and it sounds like thats what happened to your setup which made you have to get one of those bell housing bracket bolt bosses tigged back together. The bracket is only held to the mount with one center hole, so it's trying to rotate down which is obviously not good...

If you could eliminate the ability to rotate that would be a start.

The preferred option after looking closer doesn't seem like it would do the trick either since its at too much of an angle to prevent the flex that's happening.

Its one of the bolts thats pictured in pic 6 correct??

Yes, the back bolt in pic 6 is the one supporting all the weight, where the bell broke. There should be two bolts in the engine and two in the trans to support the weight. Then two bolts to connect the two brackets...those are fine.

I see what you're saying about the unwanted rotation, but I'm not sure about a separate fix.

What about a piece of rectangle tubing that is gussetted to the lower trans bracket on one end and the bell to engine bolt on the other.

WoW you took alot off.Glad i had mine custom made to fit.LOL