Beretta.net

Hey guys,

Has anyone had or is this a problem with the Beretta locks?

The drive door dose not want to unlock at time with the key from the outside? It truns too the right but, when I turn it to the left it won't turn? I have had the door all apart and it all looks good? any ideals?

(96Z26 @ Nov. 25 2008,08:19)QUOTEHey guys,

Has anyone had or is this a problem with the Beretta locks?

The drive door dose not want to unlock at time with the key from the outside? It truns too the right but, when I turn it to the left it won't turn? I have had the door all apart and it all looks good? any ideals?
Are both the key lock selenoids the same on each door?  Because the door handles are easily snapped/broken; often during winter--people forget to change the lock selenoid into the new door handle installed. This makes it so your new key doesn't work.  

Did the car have different door handles when you purchased it?

It is also possible that the 'clip' (the one that connects the handle to the rods) is either off or not on all the way. It clicks right in it.

Either way I'd probably check the clips are securing the rods properly. If that works you might wanna spray some WD-40 into the lock cylinder.

Worst case scenario is you need new locks. They cost about $30 for a set at a car parts store. Only thing is you'll have a key for the ignition, doors and trunk! Three keys.

Hope this helped.

Man, I had the opposite thing happen. I ran some Slick 50 1 lube(it's a spray) in the lock and down the arm. I just let it run down and it did help some. The thing is you will have to take the plastic cover off the the inside to do the arm. As Random said check to see if the clip is ok. My lock was very loose in the door handle, you can bend the lock holder a little on the lower part to help hold the lock in. In the end there was no way for me to line everything up right and I had to get a door handle off the door that I have for parts. Now I just have to turn the key to the left first and then unlock it. You can reuse your old lock if you want. When you get the cover off you will see that there is only one bolt holding the lock in. There is a small clip that needs to be pushed up to take the arm off the lock(do that first of course). There is also another small clip for the handle's bar, this one is hard to get off. You will need a very small flat blade screw driver or a small knife to pry the clip end out of the tab and then you can push it toward the door and then pull the arm out. There are two nuts that hold the handle assembly to the door(now that you have the one off the cover). To get the assembly off just pull up and that's it. Be sure to back the nuts up till they fall into place when putting them on(they are very cheap and they will strip or split).

Lol those little black rubber nuts split so easily XD, but a junkyard won't charge you for those.

Right now I can't open my door from the driver side because there is a different lock. I'm about to not get new locks entirely--and just get keyless remote entry installed. Hope it'll make it easier during winter when locks and door handles freeze.

Hey guys,

 Thanks for all the great info!

Yes, the key dose work in both doors. I have done everything you guys said, but still have the problem  off and on  The only other thing I can think is maybe the lock or the key is worn out....may just put in new locks.

Thanks again for the help and info!

I had that problem on my old Beretta; the key would work but you had to wiggle it a million times. Turned out the key was bad... never knew a dull key could really mess up the teeth in the locks.

New locks for everybody I guess? Hope you have a good battery Random! A dull key? I may be screwed! Well, mine work so far,but it's not that cold yet. My trunk lock needs the wiggle to get it to work(I do have the button inside if I get into trouble). I think I've seen that sig photo before.
96Z26, there is one last thing to try: use gun scrubber or carb cleaner in the lock. Well that's all I got, I'll send you a bill(lol). Your welcome!

(Quote)

Well that's all I got, I'll send you a bill!


You'll send me a bill, for WHAT? you did not FIX IT! LOL!LOL!

Vents may be free, but online help costs! Got to pay the bill somehow(ha,ha). Oh, and next time send the car to me.
Ok, back to the topic: Are you going to buy new locks? If so, where are you going to get them? I ask because I may need to do the same someday.

I'm getting new locks in about a week here. The parts themselves are fairly hard to find. The product is called a GM Lock Kit (sometimes referred to as cylinder, selenoid, etc.) Mine is being ordered and shipped from West Virginia..    I live in Neb. so I'm payin about $5 shipping. But the average price of them is $23 plus tax at any autoparts store. The kit comes with two keys. The basics of it are popping out the old lock and putting the new one in. There's a clip or two, but it's fairly easy.

I bought mine from Nappa.

If the problem keep up's I will replace them....lube up with W-D40 working for now.

I see Nappa has them, and I would think you can get them from any auto part store

Watch out for WD-40 it holds dust and dirt in. Thanks you guys, I may get them at Napa. I'll look around for some GM ones. All I need is a GM part #.