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Hey folks,

It appears that the rack on my brother's Z26 just gave out last night.  It blew all of the fluid out of (from the best I could see w/o going under the car) what appears to be a pressure release on the under side near where the lines connect (on the top) and where the column attaches.  It caused heavy fluid loss a=on the ground, and some also came into the interior through the opening for the column.  We ordered the rack and are doing it on sunday.  Any experience?  We did the 5 spd swap, so (I think) there will be enough room to do the job w/o dropping the trans.  Also- he has to drive the car for the rest of the week...  are risking damage to the pump if it runs dry too long??  Any help is great.

You are right, it's not good to run the pump dry. I can't help on the rack (took mine to a shop). My rack went out because the pump was bad. When the pump was changed they didn't flush the lines, so I lost another pump and rack. If you can I'd change the pump also(just in case and to start fresh). If you do flush the lines(don't think you need to) don't use water, it would be the same as having water in the brake lines. Not that I think that you would do that! I'm just putting that in for others that may read this post and are new to working on cars. Do you have Chilton's manual?

Rack replacement is a son of a bitchh. You don't need to take the trans out to replace it.  I started to replace mine and the bolts wouldn't move on some things from being so old so I paid my mechanic to do it since it's a little easier if you can put the car up on a lift. Chiltons won't help you with rack replacement. Actually it doesn't really help with any repairs with it's ultra vage explanations.

if you want to save your pump take the lines off the rack and put a fitting in between the lines to keep fluid in the pump.

I was just going to suggest about the same thing.

Connect the lines and have the pump flow back into itself, and keep it full.

Saves buying a pump.

It is not to difficult to change the steering rack. The hardest part is getting to the bolts. Once it is disconnected it should slide out through the passenger hole for the tie rod. I just order my new rack from autopartswarehouse.com. They have a 2.5 lock to lock rack for $80 with free shipping.  I also ordered new pressure and return lines since it is out already.

I like the idea of putting the lines together...  wish I would have thought of that!     Anyway- the car should be sitting after today until sunday anyway, so if the pump is shot it will be shot anyway.  It was driven 25 miles a day for the last two days- not so much so the pump might be ok yet.  I'll be checking to see if the parts store has it in stock just in case.  Thanks for the insight guys- I think we'll have her back in working order by monday morning for sure!

Why I did ask about the Chilton's is because it does have useful info. Like "make sure the the wheels are straight ahead and the ignition switch in lock before disconnecting the flange and coupling assembly from the steering colomn or the rack and pinion gear. Failure to do so may cause the SIR coil assembly to become uncentered, which will damage the SIR coil assembly". It also does say to use thread locking compound on the cowl panel studs (15ft.lbs.). I like Chilton's, I have had two Haynes(for a Camaro and for a Cavalier) and they really suck.

(punkboy15 @ Feb. 28 2008,21:58)QUOTEIt is not to difficult to change the steering rack. The hardest part is getting to the bolts. Once it is disconnected it should slide out through the passenger hole for the tie rod. I just order my new rack from autopartswarehouse.com. They have a 2.5 lock to lock rack for $80 with free shipping.  I also ordered new pressure and return lines since it is out already.
It's a '90 GTZ, make sure you don't need the 2.25 turn rack.  

-J