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While the car is in storage for the winter and I'm doing the TCC solenoid and TransGo kit, I'm going to replace the rod bearings which I believe are worn also.

The brands I'm going to choose between are EngineTech, DNJ, and Sealed Power.


EngineTech - aluminum-silicon

DNJ - ?

Sealed Power - aluminum, or aluminum overplated alloy


Opinions?

What on earth makes you think the rod bearings are worn, and not the rings, main bearings, timing chain, oil pump, and the entire valve train?

If you are going to get that far into the engine, you might as well do it all.

If it's an oil pressure issue, it's the main bearings that are your likely issue.

If you think the rod bearings are "worn" what do think the crankshaft is going to look like?

How many miles does your 3400 have on it?

Oil pressure does get a little lower than I believe it should after I drive it for a while, so probably not a bad idea to do the mains too. The primary issue is I have no way to pull the engine to do a complete re-ring, and money is the other issue.

Sadly the engine only has about 6k on it, but the individual that built it for me was an alcoholic that couldn't put down the booze during the rebuild. I thought the engine was fine until starting to hear a rattling like the engine can't pull the oil up top fast enough, so the oil pump was just replaced because I thought that was the issue. Turns out I was wrong, still makes a light knocking until it warms up.

Changing the rod bearings will likely not help for what you have described.

It's the mains, but if you are going that far the whole thing has to be inspected.

Do it all, or leave it alone for now til you can afford/arrange to do it properly.

If the knocking goes away when warmed up, don't lose too much sleep over it.

You may just be hearing piston slap which is notorious on these engines...

And if you want to do bearings then do it right as Eric explained... Dropping the pan to swap the rod bearings and mains is the worst way to do something of that level.

I'll just leave it for now then. If I rev it a few times, it seems to go away as well.

Sure you dont have a stretched chain?

I shouldn't, it's brand new and is a GM chain.

it's no longer new with 6K miles and a performance cam in it. Have you read any of Jon's posts regarding his chain issues? If not, I suggest you do that.

Full GM setup like all OEM parts? Pre 2000? If so your probably ok... I've had major issues with the aftermarket parts, the GM branded stuff on the other hand the sprockets hold up quite nice and I've been able to get over 3 years from one chain... and my cam is pretty aggressive, never mind the way I treat it...

All the bearings and rings are Sealed Power, but I did go to the local GM dealer and purchase an AC Delco oil pump drive and timing chain. The gears are Cloyes however.

If it's a true cloyes crank gear then expect to see this eventually..

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread. ... ming+chain

Cloyes cam gear that was on a stock 3400 mind you...


Cloyes Crank gear that was paired with GM sprocket gear on my hybrid setup with cam/springs.

Jesus Christ...

I remember somebody saying not to use Cloyes, but the engine had just been finished when I was informed.

I ran into this a lot, but it was back when Bstuff was still up. I'd ask what would work best, get a response, install the parts, then after I'd get told that no, that's a bad part to use.

I'm glad I'm finally getting good responses, even if they are pretty late. Helps being on the better forum too, I guess.

Probably should have done this when the cover was off for a new gasket two years ago.

Be careful when installing "known good parts" too.. because sometimes they are made wrong... I had one hell of a trip to Denver and back with my extremely damaged Double roller timing chain setup.

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread. ... post464354

Holy crap... On a double roller?!