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I'm new to this forum, but not to working on my cars. I have an '89 Corsica hatchback I acquired. I'm the third owner of this vehicle and I'm presently having a problem with. It. It won't start. I have replaced all three of the coil packs (engine is a 2.8 FI V6), the ignition module beneath those, the ignition switch,, spark plugs, wires, the starter and, finally a couple days ago, the fuel injectors. Still, it won't start. My next action is to replace the crankshaft position sensor. I just wanted to know if there is anything else that I need to check. Pictures enclosed.

Welcome! Unique car, appears fairly clean.

Do you have spark? Have you checked fuel pressure?

I had spark before I changed the coil packs. I haven't checked it since. I'm drifting in and out of the garage today, will go out and check that now. If I undo the fuel line and turn on the ignition, fuel sprays out like a fire hose. No problem, there.

Thanks for the prompt response. As of right now, there is no spark at cylinder #5, closest to the transaxle. Didn't check all 6. Unhooking the fuel line and turning the ignition on has fuel spraying out like a fire hose. No problem there. What else do I need to look at? It was getting spark before all the other electrical work, but now it isn't. Again, everything from the ignition switch to the spark plugs have been replaced.

Does the tack needle move up to about the 500 rpm (jump up) while cranking?

No. The tach needle barely moves at all. Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I was replacing the wheel cylinder and brake line from the passenger side.

ryan.williams wrote:No. The tach needle barely moves at all. Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I was replacing the wheel cylinder and brake line from the passenger side.

Crank sensor is a known issue that relates to the no spark condition.

Luckily, I already have a new one. That'll be tomorrow's deal. Thanks for your time. I'll check back in later.

Okay, here's the thing; concerning my LT, I've replaced the crank sensor. The car starts, now... but if I rev the engine, it sputters. The idle seems to be ok, but the sputtering makes it un-driveable. Also, the tach no longer works and the "check engine light" is still on. Is it possible that the new part I put in is wrong, or is something else wrong?

If you still have the box cross check the part number at Rock Auto(if they carry it). Having trouble with Nalley GMC these days and found another site just like it. One or the other should at least have the part number for GM. What brand did you use?

Duralast from AutoZone. I've never experienced part problems from them before. O'Reilly (formerly Murray's) was really lousy for bad parts.

Duralast should be BWD, well some of it is. That was a brand I've trusted for years, not so much now. They have three tiers as of late: low, mid and high. Even the high doesn't have the quality that old BWD use to have. You can still get good parts from O'Reilly's, but you have to ask or order them. Master Pro is China junk which is good money wasted on bad out of the box(most of the time) parts.

New Delco or Delphi is not all that great, but pulls threw as mid level part. Sometimes you can snag NOS AC Delco on Ebay.

The 2.8/3.1 is prone to losing the ICM and then a coil or two. Too much heat from the exhaust manifold.

I actually decided to just cut to the chase and go to Pep Boys and got the same part made by BWD, I think. Same problem. And now, it seems the exhaust smells a little funny, too. Thanks, I'm going to pull the plugs and check for fouling. If there isn't any I don't know what's up since I've already replaced the ICM.

Ok, just for fun unplug the coolant temp sensor and see if there is any change. A faulty sensor will make the car run ultra rich. Don't like to say this, but the chip does tend to go bad. Many things will quit working, most of which seem to be unrelated. When mine went out it seemed like the car was losing systems one by one(when driving). The speedo quit and the ignition was cutting like crazy(could hear that on AM radio). A few other things went out too which was very scary to an old V8 guy. More things than you think are controlled by the ECM and sometimes only one part of it will go bad. Everything else works just fine.
If you can find a wiring diagram for it you will see what I mean.

The other thing to check would be the wire that connects to the crank sensor and back to the ICM something could be up with that causing a poor signal to the ICM

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