Beretta.net

What's the best can we can get for a 3500? Just trying to put together a list of future engine mods. I'm gonna get the boost heads from wot. What's the best can to go with them.

well depends on what you're after really... he goes over them pretty well though in his store basically from mild to wild.

Like I said I wanna get the boost heads and boost it. I would like to reach 450 who. That's my goal. Lol I know its a big gaol but I think it can be done.

It can be done. Just remember it'll need more than heads and a cam to handle it. Forged rods and pistons are a must, along with an awesome tune for that kind of power

Oh yea I know. Lol I'm just wondering what the best can would be to get that kind of power.

forged rod and piston for 450HP? i think the 3500 can handle 450hp with the stock pistons. Ive seen a 3400 with 400Hp with no internal upgrades. its all in the tuning.

So your cam specs will depend on turbo and boost goals.. I'd personally just send Ben over at WoT-Tech a message when you're to that point and have him grind you a cam for the info you give him. Another good thread to look over is here http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread. ... 4088-Build.
In the above thread he does pretty good with stock internals, but he has blown up a few too.

Or you can simply purchase his cam selection service for $30 and then get a $30 credit toward your cam and pushrods... Do it the right way, have the guy with numbers and a engine building program pick the right cam for you.

http://wot-tech.com/shop/gm-60v6/camsha ... d_195.html

I recommend rods and pistons because building a motor to max out its capabilities isn't exactly the smartest thing to do. I have a bottom end good for 750+ hp on a good tune, so 4-500 hp I can still have some reliability

if you blow a 3400 it cost you 300$ to get another one. so if he stay in a reasonable hp level 300 to 350...he will be okay with a stock engine. once he get it dial-in he may build is engine aftewards ( if he wants more)
when im playing with boost i always try my luck on a stocker because bad luck is expensive on a built engine.

mickaz wrote:if you blow a 3400 it cost you 300$ to get another one. so if he stay in a reasonable hp level 300 to 350...he will be okay with a stock engine. once he get it dial-in he may build is engine aftewards ( if he wants more)
when im playing with boost i always try my luck on a stocker because bad luck is expensive on a built engine.

x2 on this. Figure everything out on a stock engine first - they are cheap and if you make a mistake while tuning you won't be flushing thousands of dollars down the toilet. Forged internals aren't going to save you if you overboost or see too much detonation.
That being said - I have proven that the weak point of these motors is the rods. I would not waste money on pistons. But thats just me.

Also a cam is a waste of money if you are going to boost the engine. The stock cam will bring you to your goal and beyond if you desire.

The cam change will allow you to do that at a much lower boost level though.

Actually, most of the time when guys runing boost change their cam they end up going slower. A cam change may increase peak hp, but at a cost of low end torque and increased turbo lag.
In the turbo buick world, guys have gone into the 9's with the stock cam, and it is very close to a stock 3x00 cam.
I am of course assuming that by boosting he means turbo charging.

As corky bell said "Stock cams usually work excellently. For the absolute last word in a super-boost (15psi) performance turbo car, a change of cam will be necessary, but so will several other things. Leave the stock cam alone and you will generally be much happier"

But what if I wanted 15psi?

With 15 psi you're way past your goal hp that's for sure. Lol. As I do understand how stock cams are great for boost, I don't see how upgrading the cam will make you lose performance. If its increasing air movement to the motor, that would increase spool time. Or is this one of those more air/less velosity situations for low rpm's?