Beretta.net

does anyone know who sells performance motor mounts for a 2.8 MPFI V6 i need the one that extends from the front of the engine to the frame right next to the rad. i've gotta stop the engine torque, and transmit it to the ground, i keep stalling at intersections because all the rotation torques the engine before it moves the car and once i start moving than everything whiplashes and i stall.

http://www.fastfwdperformance.com

Or you could try to fill your stocker with poly urathane, but it won't be as good as above, but it would be cheap.

Your other mounts will need attentino too probably, so urthane them too.

where do you get the urethane? hardware store?

yes

what is it, a liquid that you pour in? does it need some kind of hardener?

Why not just weld it?

I had no wheel hop when I had the post 1994 front suspension.

Then I swapped in the older style front suspension when I swapped out the automatic for the manual transmission.  I have tried the FFP torsion mounts and filled the stock engine mounts with 3M Window Weld.  The car stiffened up, but still hops.  When I get a little more money, I intend on swapping back peice by peice by doing the following to try getting back to the way it was:

Disconnecting the mount you are talking about adding ( I doubt this will fix it, but its the easiest and free-est thing to try)

Swap out the FE7 bar for the FE3 bar in front (I've never noticed any huge gain with it and it is one thing that is different)

Swap the subframes and control arms back to 1994. (I really think this is the problem, but its the most work and money for me at this point)

There was a point where I had 7psi of boost with the automatic and no wheel hop with the same tires... then I got the manual and this suspension setup.  Granted the transmission mount may be slightly offset, which I don't think it is more than 1/4" if anything since I had to have it added for the swap, but I think that the newer suspension is what eliminates wheel hop for me.  Thats just a guess at this point and I could be wrong.  If it does, I will relay the info.  I have no idea when I'll get around to it though.  The fest is a month away and my interior has more wires dangling around than the DaVinci Code movie has catholics saying bad things about it.  Which is about 29.6 trillion.

What would have to be modified to keep 94 subframe/control arms and a manual?

I would think that rear verticle bushing would cause hop. Well maybe not but maybe torque steer? Who knows. I know the driver side I've replaced twice, but the passenger is still goign strong...

OT I saw a nice beatiful all red sunbird SE 5spd 3.1 in the junkyard. Only needed minor door/fender work and clean the interior. Not sure about the motor, but if I had a place to work on it, that would be replaced anyways with a 3400 & FI.

my problem is not wheel hop, and i don't think that removing the motor mount would help anything, it would just make things worse.  
i want to know more about the poly urethane.

I am thinking about it now... and I am pretty sure that you don't need to do anything to change between the two versions of the subframes.  The only thing is that you will lose the one torsion mount and the corner support peice for the bump stop on the manual trans.... I think that there is a slight difference in how the passenger side torsion mount aligns... I remember having to drill a hole one inch over... but its been too long since I've looked at that area.  Over a year at least now.

I would guess that having a vertical bushing would really help prevent wheel hop if anything.

I would think it would delfect / deform more and cause the geometry to change and cause torque steer, but actually I don't have torque steer anymore since fixing the main upper mount, but I don't have tons of power either.

Scott: What are the basic connections to fool the computer on the manual swap? Clutch switch goes to neutral/park switch on auto? But yet the car won't start if it's in drive, so Hmm and I guess the cable that locks you out of turning the key just hangs and doesn't affect you anymore? Can you give me a quick break down on that? Thanks.

I guess if you wanted you could put a switch on the neutral safety switch and flip it on (making circuit complete) to start the car then once you get it started you could just switch it off (breaking the circuit) .  You'd have to test this out as this is just my theory.

(scberetta3800 @ May 24 2006,09:39)Q
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Emy problem is not wheel hop, and i don't think that removing the motor mount would help anything, it would just make things worse. ÂÂÂ
i want to know more about the poly urethane.
Look through this thread. I gave some info on it. ÂÂÂ

http://www.beretta.net/board/ib3/ikonbo ... hl=bereta1

88GTU: that's not a bad idea. Actually if you wired up a 2 way relay, so that normaly closed it connects "drive switch" and when you turn the key to "start" it activates the relay and unswitches drive, and connects "neutral/park switch" to fire the car up. That would be perfect. Of course wire the clutch switch to keep "start" open until the clutch is depressed for safety reasons like a normal manual car. I think that would work perfectly.

If anyone has done it differently let me know, but this makes perfect sense to me and seems to be easy!!! I don't think there would be any hiccups or adverse affects like this.  

Hey thanks Bereta1, it's exactly what i wanted to know!