5spd swap
5spd swap
Cause my suspension decided to crap out the fuel lines, and getting new parts overseas takes at least few weeks, i decided to do the damn 5spd swap i'v been waiting to do since i got the car.
I'm pulling out the 101k mile TH-125 crapbox, and throwing it into nearest river or something, i really really hate that transmission, totally ruins a good car.
I'm installing 193k km driven GM-spec Isuzu 5spd witch was leftover from my red car, that thing was working like a dream and i do have all the parts needed for it, so i'l be using it now with 3.1, i know Getrag has been told to be more reliable but i'd have to get one overseas, so this is the only reasonable option now.
Extreme violence was used to get that thing out, TV cable had to be cut, but everything else unbolted fairly easy.
I'm doing lot of related upgrade\fix work at the same time, easyer to do while i have the space to work with it now.
--------------------- EDIT -----------------------------
5spd swap
Get rid of old stuff! DONE
Weld manual mounts in [DONE]
Paint [DONE]
Fill up the rubber mounts [DONE]
Move the dogbone from A to M hole [DONE]
Install flywheel + clutch [DONE]
Install transmission [DONE] + axles [DONE]
Install shifter + cables [DONE]
Install pedals (brake and clutch) [DONE]
Install hydraulics [DONE]
Re-work some of the wiring [DONE]
Flash the EPROM with manual .bin [DONE]
Fill up with Redline MTL [DONE]
Modify top engine mount [DONE]
Bend the brakelines to clear mounts [DONE] and bleed the brakes [DONE]
Suspension work
Install poly bushings to new control arms
Install poly FE7 swaybar bushings [DONE]
Replace strut mount bearings [DONE]
Replace tierod end boots [DONE]
Install Addco rear swaybar (maybe paint it before)
Bodywork
Fix rotted areas in firewall [DONE]
Re-seal body seams [DONE]
Sandblast+repaint subframes (looked horrible) [DONE]
Sandblast+repaint some parts of the floor under the front seats [DONE]
Paint everything above [DONE]
Maintenance work
Fix leaking fuel pipes [DONE]
Fix any other leak if found | didn't find any?
Install new block heater [DONE]
Fix failing belt tensioner [DONE]
Replace heater core [DONE]
Coolant change [DONE]
Locate + fix water leak in passenger firewall area [DONE] ghettofix for now
Change brake fluid [DONE]
Other
Remove AC [DONE] install pulley [DONE]
Add wires for future audio [DONE]
New parts checklist
Control arms: GM [GOT]
AC delete pulley: GM [GOT]
Control-arm bushings: Energy Suspension, GOT 7/8
FE7 poly swaybar bushings, [GOT]
Clutch: AC-Delco, Ordered from Rockauto [GOT]
Fuel hose + clamps [GOT]
New tierod boots [GOT]
Heater core replacement [GOT from parts car]
New strut bearings GOT
rear swaybar, ADDCO [Ordered]
Block Heater, Defa [GOT]
Brake fluid GOT
Some RCA cable [GOT] stole from white car
Wow i hate how these things get out of hands always.
I'm pulling out the 101k mile TH-125 crapbox, and throwing it into nearest river or something, i really really hate that transmission, totally ruins a good car.
I'm installing 193k km driven GM-spec Isuzu 5spd witch was leftover from my red car, that thing was working like a dream and i do have all the parts needed for it, so i'l be using it now with 3.1, i know Getrag has been told to be more reliable but i'd have to get one overseas, so this is the only reasonable option now.
Extreme violence was used to get that thing out, TV cable had to be cut, but everything else unbolted fairly easy.
I'm doing lot of related upgrade\fix work at the same time, easyer to do while i have the space to work with it now.
--------------------- EDIT -----------------------------
5spd swap
Get rid of old stuff! DONE
Weld manual mounts in [DONE]
Paint [DONE]
Fill up the rubber mounts [DONE]
Move the dogbone from A to M hole [DONE]
Install flywheel + clutch [DONE]
Install transmission [DONE] + axles [DONE]
Install shifter + cables [DONE]
Install pedals (brake and clutch) [DONE]
Install hydraulics [DONE]
Re-work some of the wiring [DONE]
Flash the EPROM with manual .bin [DONE]
Fill up with Redline MTL [DONE]
Modify top engine mount [DONE]
Bend the brakelines to clear mounts [DONE] and bleed the brakes [DONE]
Suspension work
Install poly bushings to new control arms
Install poly FE7 swaybar bushings [DONE]
Replace strut mount bearings [DONE]
Replace tierod end boots [DONE]
Install Addco rear swaybar (maybe paint it before)
Bodywork
Fix rotted areas in firewall [DONE]
Re-seal body seams [DONE]
Sandblast+repaint subframes (looked horrible) [DONE]
Sandblast+repaint some parts of the floor under the front seats [DONE]
Paint everything above [DONE]
Maintenance work
Fix leaking fuel pipes [DONE]
Fix any other leak if found | didn't find any?
Install new block heater [DONE]
Fix failing belt tensioner [DONE]
Replace heater core [DONE]
Coolant change [DONE]
Locate + fix water leak in passenger firewall area [DONE] ghettofix for now
Change brake fluid [DONE]
Other
Remove AC [DONE] install pulley [DONE]
Add wires for future audio [DONE]
New parts checklist
Control arms: GM [GOT]
AC delete pulley: GM [GOT]
Control-arm bushings: Energy Suspension, GOT 7/8
FE7 poly swaybar bushings, [GOT]
Clutch: AC-Delco, Ordered from Rockauto [GOT]
Fuel hose + clamps [GOT]
New tierod boots [GOT]
Heater core replacement [GOT from parts car]
New strut bearings GOT
rear swaybar, ADDCO [Ordered]
Block Heater, Defa [GOT]
Brake fluid GOT
Some RCA cable [GOT] stole from white car
Wow i hate how these things get out of hands always.
I fill up for $130. Also Beretta owner since 2004
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- Location: Long Grove, IL
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5spd swap
Haha, you think the 3T40 ruins the car, try a 4T60-E.
What are you doing about the mounts? Welding them in?
And don't forget the engine has to go approx 1" back on the passenger side.
What are you doing about the mounts? Welding them in?
And don't forget the engine has to go approx 1" back on the passenger side.
Cliff Scott


5spd swap
(Cliff8928 @ Aug. 02 2008,03:02)QUOTEWhat are you doing about the mounts? Welding them in?
And don't forget the engine has to go approx 1" back on the passenger side.
Yes, welding them in.
I know the Getrag swap needs the engine to move, but no-one really seemed to know is it same for the Isuzu, so there is some measuring for me to do.
I fill up for $130. Also Beretta owner since 2004
5spd swap
Basically everything in my engine bay was covered in greasy tar, i bet both of the crank gaskets do leak a bit, distributor o-ring i have already replaced earlyer.
Rest of the possible oil-leaks do have to wait for me to pull the engine for rebuild with goodies later, next year maybe.
Rest of the possible oil-leaks do have to wait for me to pull the engine for rebuild with goodies later, next year maybe.
I fill up for $130. Also Beretta owner since 2004
5spd swap
I powerwashed my engine to get rid of the oily tar, found this under it, strange...
I fill up for $130. Also Beretta owner since 2004
5spd swap
Well it's functional so it can do for now, until i pull the engine for rebuild some day.
It's been raining like every day now, so i haven't got time to touch the car
It's been raining like every day now, so i haven't got time to touch the car
I fill up for $130. Also Beretta owner since 2004
5spd swap
HORROR PICTURES!
I took the carpet out, noticed that i had huge swimming pool under it, like usual in these cars.. but i was not guessing i'l find things like this:
Thats where the clutch pedal goes, i did see small rust hole under the hood, but i guess it was 1/5 of whats there.
Seems like previous owner has seen these rust spots, and then just filled em with silicone!!! What an idiot.
Passenger side also has lot f silicon planted there, both of these biggest rust-sports are directly under where the steering rack mounts on firewall.
I can see the reason for this rusting is bad quality body, firewall is made from several different layers of sheetmetal, spot welded together, there is
NO PAINT OR ANYTHING in some of those layers, only bare metal, then with time, the body glue or whatever they used to seal the layers, gets old
and cracks, water gets in there and this is what you get. DAMN GM!
So, the indoor swimming pool under the carpet also caused this, but it seems to only be on the surface, so it's not that hard to fix, unlike next pic.
This is under the windshield wiper motor, everything is completely rotted, lot to fix here and hard to do that too. Now i'm pissed, this was also hidden under silicon.
Oh and guess what guys? I also noticed that my heater core is dripping coolant from the drain pipe, so i guess it's gone too.. more and more to fix every day
It will be fixed by the end of the week if weather allows.
I took the carpet out, noticed that i had huge swimming pool under it, like usual in these cars.. but i was not guessing i'l find things like this:
Thats where the clutch pedal goes, i did see small rust hole under the hood, but i guess it was 1/5 of whats there.
Seems like previous owner has seen these rust spots, and then just filled em with silicone!!! What an idiot.
Passenger side also has lot f silicon planted there, both of these biggest rust-sports are directly under where the steering rack mounts on firewall.
I can see the reason for this rusting is bad quality body, firewall is made from several different layers of sheetmetal, spot welded together, there is
NO PAINT OR ANYTHING in some of those layers, only bare metal, then with time, the body glue or whatever they used to seal the layers, gets old
and cracks, water gets in there and this is what you get. DAMN GM!
So, the indoor swimming pool under the carpet also caused this, but it seems to only be on the surface, so it's not that hard to fix, unlike next pic.
This is under the windshield wiper motor, everything is completely rotted, lot to fix here and hard to do that too. Now i'm pissed, this was also hidden under silicon.
Oh and guess what guys? I also noticed that my heater core is dripping coolant from the drain pipe, so i guess it's gone too.. more and more to fix every day
It will be fixed by the end of the week if weather allows.
I fill up for $130. Also Beretta owner since 2004
- leadfoot93
- Registered User
- Posts: 171
- Joined: Thu Jun 29, 2006 3:16 pm
- Location: Wisconsin
5spd swap
Oh man do I feel Bad for you. If you don't wan't to patch the whole thing Fiberglass is you're best friend. I't'll never rust on you again.
foot in the floor mpg about 8
5spd swap
Looks like this turned into FIX EVERYTHING PROJECT.
So, i went and bought:
Cheap & basic made in Taiwan sandblaster unit...
...Witch seems to work fine, only i bought too heavy sand for it. Oh these are the 5spd mounts from the red car.
Now i need to buy better blasting sand and figure out how to do the car without sand filing everything.
Rotted parts have now been cut out, and area around them sandblasted to bare metal, tho some leftovers from silicon are there, but they are not on rusty areas.
Yellow stuff in the pics is Acid-paint what i sprayed to all bare-metal areas so it would not rust while waiting for welding.
Behind the wiper motor. This is going to be hard to fix cause lot of different shapes.
Same from under the dash, seam had a rust color on it, so i sandblasted it too.
Under the steering wheel
Same from engine bay
Passengers side firewall, there are plenty of small holes in there, but with strong metal just next to them, weird.
I didn't dig the huge silicon thing out there, cause it was Strong mothaf******** stuff, and there's no hole in that spot under the hood, i'l keep looking this spot tho.
Same from under the hood. I simply can't fix these while engine is on the car, so what i'm going to do with these, is slow down the
rusting as much i can, and take another look of these holes\rusts next summer, need to pull drivetrain and steering rack out for it.
Next thing on the list welding the firewall back together, drivers side is the place to start..
Oh and i like my new cheap sandblaster.
I edited the first post to include my TODO-list and stuff, cause this project expanded quite a lot..
So, i went and bought:
Cheap & basic made in Taiwan sandblaster unit...
...Witch seems to work fine, only i bought too heavy sand for it. Oh these are the 5spd mounts from the red car.
Now i need to buy better blasting sand and figure out how to do the car without sand filing everything.
Rotted parts have now been cut out, and area around them sandblasted to bare metal, tho some leftovers from silicon are there, but they are not on rusty areas.
Yellow stuff in the pics is Acid-paint what i sprayed to all bare-metal areas so it would not rust while waiting for welding.
Behind the wiper motor. This is going to be hard to fix cause lot of different shapes.
Same from under the dash, seam had a rust color on it, so i sandblasted it too.
Under the steering wheel
Same from engine bay
Passengers side firewall, there are plenty of small holes in there, but with strong metal just next to them, weird.
I didn't dig the huge silicon thing out there, cause it was Strong mothaf******** stuff, and there's no hole in that spot under the hood, i'l keep looking this spot tho.
Same from under the hood. I simply can't fix these while engine is on the car, so what i'm going to do with these, is slow down the
rusting as much i can, and take another look of these holes\rusts next summer, need to pull drivetrain and steering rack out for it.
Next thing on the list welding the firewall back together, drivers side is the place to start..
Oh and i like my new cheap sandblaster.
I edited the first post to include my TODO-list and stuff, cause this project expanded quite a lot..
I fill up for $130. Also Beretta owner since 2004
5spd swap
This is gone now, i posted @ local American cars forum, that first one to pick it up gets it,
Took a week before it was taken away, guy plans to use it on DIY 4x4 yard tracktor\lawnmover thing,
i gave him everything except the shifter and axles.
Think those swaybar bushings needed replacing?
Also i got the new control arms and ac bypass pulley today, thanks Mad Mark for re-shipping em to me.
I bought a belt that was nearest to the length required, that i could find, i hope it fits...
Oh, bodywork update:
The big hole behind the clutch pedal is now welded shut, and the group of timy holes in passenger side is taken care at so it won't continue rotting anymore, welding on it has to be made when engine is out, it has riverted sheetmetal now to block the holes, sealed with silicon + rust prevention crap all over the places.
Undone:
- Hole(s) behind the wiper motor are on the works (hard!)
- Weld in the transmision mounts
- Final sandblast and repaint
Almost 'done' for now, next week the car should be 5spd swapped and everything, taking weekend off.
I fill up for $130. Also Beretta owner since 2004
5spd swap
Some more rot fix pics:
Welded & painted with rust preventing clearcoat.
Other side
Work on progress here, could not be welded, too complex to do right,
instead riverted the new stuff there, will be painted and sealed good.
There were spots where the paint just came off from the floorpan, with
good metal under it, so i had to re-paint some more here.
And the car is extremely dusty after all that sandblasting....
Same paint here that i'l use to paint the repaired places
Transmission mounts in before the paint.
New Sachs clutch.
Welded & painted with rust preventing clearcoat.
Other side
Work on progress here, could not be welded, too complex to do right,
instead riverted the new stuff there, will be painted and sealed good.
There were spots where the paint just came off from the floorpan, with
good metal under it, so i had to re-paint some more here.
And the car is extremely dusty after all that sandblasting....
Same paint here that i'l use to paint the repaired places
Transmission mounts in before the paint.
New Sachs clutch.
I fill up for $130. Also Beretta owner since 2004
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- Location: Rochester New York
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5spd swap
progress is looking good weba
how much longer do u think is goin to take???
how much longer do u think is goin to take???
93 GT cammed 3500 TORSEN, headers,intake,wilwood,poly/delrin mounts, 2.5 S.S,Exhaust,dickman kits,GTUspoiler,Euro headlights-tails-mirrors-fender flares-spoiler,Intrax/Koni,91+blk interior,rr disk swap,s.s.clutch line