Beretta Horror Story

[Decipha]

I lifted my front end to put a new transmission in for
beretta fest when all of a sudden i got the great idea
to check the oil, don't ask me why but it just poped in
my head for no apparent reason.  I checked my oil and
COOLANT!  I have water residue all in my valves!  So
now im not sure what i'm going to do.  Well I guess
I won't be going to beretta fest this year.  SO SAD...

[TexanBerettaGT]

Dang, sorry to hear that man.

What engine/tranny ?

[bonecrrusher]

Its only December, bfest is a long ways away.

[Guest]

Make sure it just isn't condensation.  Are you losing coolant?  What's your weather been like?

[Decipha]

3100/4T60E

I hope i can rebuild the engine by bfest

I'm positive it's not condensation, I'm losing coolant quicker than i can pour it in,
its been between 40-60 lately very damp moist air humid like a mothur... poor beretta

[cramez]

Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets.  Very common on the 3100s.  They're not bad to change so long as your oil hasn't been that way too long.  As long as the motor isn't making any noise, it's a $100 and one day job, maybe less.  If the motor is making noise, the bearings gave out for lack of lubrication, and then you might just as well swap in a different motor.  Just about any 3100 or 3400 will work, 3400 is definitely the most desirable and can be found for $500.

[Decipha]

well that makes me feel better, how sure are you that its just the intake gasket?

My car starts up and runs perfectly fine, doesn't make any noise, no hp loss or anything,
the only problem is it burns coolant SLIGHTLY for about the first 2-3 min its running, then
it stops, its not even smoke just a light moisture.  If your positive its the gasket then
I'd rather do that then rip apart the motor.  Let me know what you think.

[cramez]

If it burns coolant at all, I would personally do the head gaskets while you're down that far, it's another 16 bolts and an extra hour.  Less of a headache when you're done though, and you know it's all finished.  http://www.rockauto.com/ is probably the cheapest place to get the parts, I usually use Fel-Pro if possible, I've never had any problems with them.  I've been meaning to do a write-up on this anyways, I'll get that done and post it up later.  

Avoid driving it until it's fixed if you can, the oil doesn't do much with coolant dilluting it, so it wouldn't take long to burn up bearings.

[MAJ28]

Stop running the car!  Once that engine starts running rough or making noise you're screwed.  If you have to run it at all, drain all the coolant completelly, change the oil, then move it - before it overheats.  I ran mine for about 20 miles making noise, did all the gaskets and still needed an engine when it was all said and done.

It's also my opinion that the intake gasket went, mine had 82K on it, and it was really messed up, had cracking in all 4 corners - I'll try to find a pic when I get home.  It's time consuming, but not a difficult job.  When I do something like this, I just cannot stand to put it back together greasy and will all kinds of liquids all over it, that nasty oil/coolant mixture.  Hit advance or somewhere, get about 2 cans degreaser, 2 cans brake cleaner, 1 can carb cleaner and a roll of paper towels.  Other than that, you'll need RTV Sealant (black,) the gaskets, and (recommended) new head  bolts.  You should be able to find all this stuff in stock, not necessarily at the same store, but between a/z, advance, napa and carquest you'll get everything you need for probably less then $100 like Cramez said.

»Jason

[Decipha]

cool, also thinking back i kind of remember there being water residue only in the valves.
So i'm more sure that its the manifold gasket.  It all makes sense now!  Hopefully the
3 gaskets will do the job.  What else do i need to get besides the following:

Head Gaskets
Intake Gasket
Head Bolts
Carb Cleaner
RTV Sealant
Brake Cleaner
Degreaser Crap
....???

...thanks I hope this fixes it!

[Decipha]

also, is there any tips from any pros who have done this before?  Any little tips would
be greatly appreciated.

[Decipha]

oh yeah, what about the water residue?  I know i have to flush the coolant and the oil
I was thinking dropping the oil and water at the same time,  putting fresh water in and
fresh oil and filter.  Then starting it and pour some of that gunk-b-gone crap keep it
running about 5 more minutes then drop the oil again.  Put some fresh oil in and let it
run about 10-15 min,  (all the while checking my temp) then putting some more gunk
crap in for another 5 minutes then dropping the oil again.  Then filling it up with 5-30
full synthetic, since my baby can only have the best.  Then I'll flush the water out and
fill it up with coolant...


Sry its long but i want to make sure this would be the best way.

[rweatherford]

Sounds fine.

[cramez]

Brake cleaner and razor blade scrapers will clean everything up pretty good.  

The only other thing I would do while you've got it down that far is the distributor plug o-ring.  It's a $1 part, and it leaks oil like crazy if it goes out.  One bolt an 30 seconds to change it if you're already taking the top end off.  It's a round piece right next to where the lower intake sits on the driver's side of the car, under where the throttle body sits.  

Have you done this much motor work before?  It sounds like you know what you're doing, but if you're not sure, pick up a chilton's manual too, $15 that saves a lot of headaches for the backyard mechanic.

[Decipha]

I rebuilt a ford 351 windsor a few years back and ever since then i loved working on cars
you should hear me im just a whistling and humming away all the while... i can handle it