3400 Swap

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 8:59 am

I know this has been gone over about a thousand times, but I'm about to do this(finally) and in reality just a bit nervous. I was reading through 3400swap.com and it seemed pretty straightforward, especially seeing as I have a 3100 in the car. Just two questions really. What's with the coolant temp sensor? I read through about tapping a new hole and whatnot, but I didn't really understand the whole premise behind it. Also, the EGR needs an adapter, I think I read you can get one from jbodyperformance. Do you just get the adapter and that's that? Nothing else really needs to be exchanged, right? Ok that was three questions, sorry.

Post by **heavywoody** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 2:56 pm

Which car are you doing this in?

The coolan temp sensor is located right by the thermostat housing... it tells the computer what the coolant temperature is so the computer can determine how much fuel to put through the injectors.

Depending on what year your engine is from, and what car this is going into, I have an EGR adapter that I can sell you.

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Mon Jul 23, 2007 8:35 pm

I sold the GT about five months ago, I suppose I should change my sig, but it's the z26 that the engine will be going into. There was some talk about having to drill and tap a hole for the coolant temp sensor, could someone elaborate? And which egr adapter plate is it, pre or post 2000? Thanks for the help.

EDIT: I'll be picking up the engine sometime this week, most likely from a Venture.

Post by **heavywoody** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 9:01 am

The only drilling I know of is if you want to add the single wire (green wire) temp sensor that feeds the temp gauge on the cluster... but seeing as your car is a 96, it has a 3 pin coolant sensor (by the thermostat housing) which already has the green wire for the dash gauge...

Although you will have to tap the lower intake manifold for the coolant pipe to thread into... the quick connect fitting screws into the manifold, and the coolant pipe snaps into that.

As long as your engine is a 96-99, you shouldn't need an EGR adapter... you might if you get a newer motor though.

Luckymc420 · Post by **Luckymc420** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:25 pm

The newer EGR are digital thats why the plate is needed depending on the year of engine. There are 2 coolant sensors. One in the head that is made only for the gauge and the other one that is by your thermostat.

spacecadetz26 · Post by **spacecadetz26** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 10:37 pm

if you have a 96 already the only thing you have to do is swap your original coolant temp sensor into the new engine. and swap over the throttle linkage from the 3100 onto the 3400 tb. the rest is exactly the same. you can use the newer EGR also.

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Tue Jul 24, 2007 11:13 pm

So then just swap away, no drilling?

spacecadetz26 · Post by **spacecadetz26** » Wed Jul 25, 2007 12:11 am

it goes in teh same spot

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Wed Jul 25, 2007 10:46 am

Ok, it looks like picking up a reman motor is out of my budget, but I can pick one up with about 80,000 miles, for a decent price. I figure I might as well do what I can to prolong the motor's life while it's relativly easy, so I'm looking for suggestions on what to replace. I plan on doing the lower intake manifold, and looking over for any other obvious problems, but what else?

Post by **heavywoody** » Wed Jul 25, 2007 1:15 pm

Depending on how long it's been sitting, I'd replace every gasket on the engine.

If it hasn't sat that long, replace the intake gaskets, and distributor O-ring.

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Wed Jul 25, 2007 2:30 pm

It's been sitting for about two weeks. So it looks like those two. Thanks for all the help everyone. I'll be starting the swap this weekend, I still need to decide if I'm going to rent an engine hoist or just spend an extra $50 and buy one.

Wait, I those engines have coil packs, where's the distributor?

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Sat Jul 28, 2007 3:56 pm

Here's what I've gotten done so far: I've stripped the new block down and cleaned everything up, I've decided for forgo an engine hoist and just dropped the engine and transmission out of the car. Tomorrow, I'll be putting the new engine back together, with new gaskets and whatnot, and switching the old engine with the new one on the transmission. At the very least I expect to have the engine back in the car, hopefully running by the end of the day.

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Sun Jul 29, 2007 7:40 pm

Wow, doing all that is really time consuming. I managed to get the new engine back together, with everything on it except the a/c compressor because I'll be replacing the oil pan gasket. I replaced the heater core also, because one of the plastic lines broke on me when I was disconnecting it. Tomorrow, assuming I'm not busy at work, the engine will be going in.

Post by **heavywoody** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 8:51 am

Have fun, and good luck!

Make sure not to pull or pinch any wires...

Ask me how I know...

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:18 pm

Yeah, there have been a few missteps so far, but nothing serious, more like things that made it harder. But, I got the engine and transmission back together. We were a little busy at work, and I had to switch the timing chain cover over, after I had put stuff on it.
Oh, before I forget, quick question. The heater line that comes from right after the thermostat, the return I'm assuming, the line didn't really snap into the manifold or anything. If it fit in, but there wasn't really a seal or anything like that. I just took some gasket maker and put it around the tube, and then put it in the hole and let the stuff dry. Is that the way it is supposed to be? The old hose had a snap fitting and o ring into something that threaded into the manifold. Also, that line takes a different route than the old one, not so much a problem I'm assuming, I just need to use different hose.

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