Transmission woes

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:29 am

So last week my transmission started slipping from first to second. If I went easy on the gas, if would shift fine, but anything over half throttle and the engine would rev up for a bit and then shift to second. It never really did it in any other shifts except for once, and that was at wide open throttle (I wanted to see if it would happen at other times). Last night driving home, something finally gave. From a stop, I could give the car a little gas, and it would just rev for about 10 seconds, and then slowly start to go. The car didn't really shift that often, but I mostly stayed at or below 40 mph, with the car at 5K rpms. Going uphill was a definite problem. When I finally limped home, I noticed that there was a burning smell, almost like a burnt clutch. I couldn't tell if the trans fluid was low, everytime I checked the dipstick the fluid on it was frothy, but the color was considerably darker than it was when I checked it a week ago. This morning, I went ahead a tried to get the car to go somewhere, but to no avail. I could rev it in reverse, but the car actually rolled forward(downhill), and the engine wouldn't rev past the limiter of about 4k rpms. I'm thinking that the torque converter gave out, but I'm not sure, transmissions aren't my specialty. Any ideas?
I almost forgot, it's the 4t60E transmission, 141K miles on it.

JeffD · Post by **JeffD** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 5:51 pm

hmmm, I don't think it's the torque converter, that would make some awful noises.
if the fluid is frothy it either means that the fluid is low and got aerated, or there is coolant/water in the fluid. if it has water or coolant in the fluid you need to get the tranny rebuilt. that stuff kills the clutches.
if the fluid is low it could explain the lack of operation and aeration problem. in either case I would drop the pan and have a look at whats in it, it'll give you a better idea whats wrong.

JeffD · Post by **JeffD** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 5:57 pm

I just looked at a clutch and band chart I had, and I think your problem may lie in the "Input Clutch" this clutch is used in both 1 and R ranges.

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:26 pm

Well crap. I was hoping it was something that I could possibly fix. I'll drop the pan tomorrow and take a look at it. Thanks.

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 7:28 pm

I just checked my trans fluid, and it most definitely is a muddy brown color, while it was red last week. Also, the level was an inch above the full mark; last week it was dead in between the dots. I find it highly unlikely that someone decided to swap out my fluid for bad fluid, and overfill it to boot, so what could cause this? Again, I don't know much about transmissions. Additionally, it of course says on the dipstick "Do not overfill." What's the worst that can happen? I'm going to drain it a refill it tomorrow using a flush machine, just no flush additive because I doubt the people who had the car before ever flushed it, so I know I will have 100% clean fluid and the proper level. After I do that and nothing is fixed, where should I go from there?

SuzukiGhostRider · Post by **SuzukiGhostRider** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:17 pm

That sounds like coolant in the tranny to me. Check your trans cooler lines running from the radiator to the trans. I'm willing to bet you'll find a bad seal or busted line. Also, check your coolant level to see if it's down a bit. Fix it ,if possible, flush your trans and pray it works. Or you're looking at a rebuild due to probable fried clutch paks. Best of luck.

JeffD · Post by **JeffD** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 8:53 pm

GM says that once the tranny gets coolant in it, it's done. the coolant attacks the adhesive on the clutch plates and they fall apart. muddy brown and overfilled is coolant in the system. most likely you'll need to replace your radiator, or get a separate tranny cooler. you'll need the lines flushed too.
If you flush the tranny it and try running it you may have a catastrophic failure in the tranny costing you much more than the price of a rebuild.
Get a used tranny or have it rebuilt.

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Wed Apr 23, 2008 11:29 pm

The radiator is a little over a year old, could it really be leaking? The coolant was about a quart low, but it also looks like the reservoir is leaking around the seal where the top and bottom are joined. I checked the lines and they looked ok. I'll see if I can't get it to the shop today or tomorrow and take a better look at things. I don't see much point in getting a used tranny that I don't really know athe history of, so I think I'll just get this one rebuilt for now, anyone know a ballpark for that? I wish I had the time to convert this to a 5 speed...

SuzukiGhostRider · Post by **SuzukiGhostRider** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:15 am

Ballpark rebuild figure on a trans is usually in the $1200-$1500 range thru a shop. 5 Speed swap that bish and you'll get off cheaper AND have a car that's more fun to drive!

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:36 am

Eff that, I could order a new transmission from GM for $1600. Humor me though, what parts do I need for the swap? I need a transmission(getrag), clutch and pedal, shifter and cables, new axles, and a new right side subframe. I think there are some other things, what am I forgetting? The only real problem is that I need a car and can't take a week to do that.

SuzukiGhostRider · Post by **SuzukiGhostRider** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 5:04 pm

No reason you can't do it in a weekend if you're properly prepared. Check this forum out. Register there if you haven't already as you will find a fountain of information on that site. GL.

IsaacHayes · Post by **IsaacHayes** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 7:32 pm

You have to weld in a new mount for the 5spd.

When my trans cooler failed in my radiator the trans pushed ATF into the coolant system, the trans is high pressure. I still dropped the pan though just in case but no coolant got into the trans.

JeffD · Post by **JeffD** » Thu Apr 24, 2008 9:25 pm

yes the atf is High pressure, heat makes things expand though but once you shut off the engine that pressure is gone. but as we all know when you open a hot rad cap it's under pressure, this pressure forces coolant into the cooler lines.

HateMyAuto · Post by **HateMyAuto** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 9:23 am

Yeah, that's the one thing that's getting me, the welding. What exactly does that piece look like? Where does it go? I can't find a manual transmission at the local junkyards, I'm probably going to have to greenleaf it, so if someone could maybe post a pic or something, it would be really helpful.

SuzukiGhostRider · Post by **SuzukiGhostRider** » Fri Apr 25, 2008 4:07 pm

Post over on the Q4F and ask one of the guys for a pic of their mount. They will help you out for sure. I know some guys here have done it ,but since Bstuff is back up not sure how many of them come over here now.

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