car starting problem

hacknfrack · Post by **hacknfrack** » Thu May 18, 2006 6:02 pm

My car has had this problem for about 8 months or so and it hasn't been really annoying until now when it does it much more frequently. I have a '90 base and sometimes it just doesn't start. I have full power. I can run my windows, stero, blower, alarm; everything electrical is fine. When I go to start it though, nothing. No clicking, no revving, no turning over, nothing.

In December I had it serviced for a backfiring problem and the shop replaced a bad ignition module and both coils. They also replaced the spark plugs and wires. The fuel pressure passed the test when they ran it. Fixed the back firing, but the starting problem has still hung around. Obviously it always started right up when it was at the shop.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Mr Goodwrench · Post by **Mr Goodwrench** » Fri May 19, 2006 12:12 am

starter!! needs to be replaced..

Mr Goodwrench

hacknfrack · Post by **hacknfrack** » Fri May 19, 2006 6:02 pm

Thanks.

How easy of a DIY is this? I have a hydraulic jack, jack stands, etc. Any pitfalls?

Why do you say it is the starter and not the solenoid or the ignition switch?

hacknfrack · Post by **hacknfrack** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 12:59 pm

Update:

Crank Position Sensor has been replaced. I still have a starting starting problem. I had AZ test the battery and starter and both passed. Car was slow to start once and was told the ignition switch was acting up.

Sound good to anyone else? How easy is this to replace?

daguse5853z · Post by **daguse5853z** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 1:21 pm

yeah the ignition switch could do it. you have to take your steering wheel off to replace the switch im guessing since thats what i had to do for my s10. advance auto or autozone's website has a section for repair help which is pretty much pages taken from a chiltons or haynes and put on the net. you might want to check that out. replacing the started involves taking the 2 bolts out that hold it to the block, possibly removing the bellhousing dust cover and unbolting the wires running to it. should be a group of six or so wires on the top and a little wire on the bottom of the solenoid.

TheWhiteWolf · Post by **TheWhiteWolf** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 8:55 am

When you turn your key to the 'START' position, does everything turn off like the radio and dash lights? If no, look no further then the ignition switch.

As for Autozone checking the starter, I couldn't see this ever working while still on the car. The best they sould check for while on the car is that if it is completly burned out. Anyways, no clicking sound at all when the key is turned, If it is not the ignition switch, next down the line is the starter solenoid. You should hear a noticable click noise from the solenoid.

hacknfrack · Post by **hacknfrack** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 6:23 pm

Still have all the electrical stuff in the "On" position and everything turns off when I turn the key to "Start".

There's no clicking like an attempt to turn over. Then "magically" the car just up and starts like normal on one turn.

rweatherford · Post by **rweatherford** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 10:39 pm

The ignition switch is on top of the steering column under the dash. It is not that hard to get to. There is a rod that runs down to it from the lock cylinder.

What about neutral safety switch or clutch switch? Next time it won't start try wiggling the shift lever if it is an automatic. Try starting in neutral instead of park. If those things are not it then the starter solinoid is the logical next step, but it is probably about as cheap to get the entire starter.

hacknfrack · Post by **hacknfrack** » Sat Jan 27, 2007 12:52 am

I've tried the neutral safety switch. Wiggling or trying to start in neutral doesn't affect anything.

I've read in the Haynes manual that since I have a tilt steering wheel that I have to go to the deal to get this done since a couple pins need pulled and they're the only ones with the tool. The Chilton manual said nothing about this.

The problem has been becoming worse and worse. This all started after I had an alarm installed. Recently my truck pop on my alarm remote stopped working (not the pop from the console, though). Upon inspection by the installer, a wire for the alarm trunk pop has been grounded that should be positive. For some obscure reason could this affect starting - have a wire somewhere that is grounded that shouldn't be?

1988GTU · Post by **1988GTU** » Sat Jan 27, 2007 1:24 am

I say take that alarm out and put it all back to stock. The car cannot do you any good if it keeps you from even driving it.

If you want to protect it, add in your own kill switch and a LED (blinking type) somewhere in plain view wired to a constant power output.

rweatherford · Post by **rweatherford** » Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:10 pm

Take the alarm out.

Perhaps I am mistaken on the ignition switch. I may be thinking about the dimmer switch, but I thought both of them were down in that area under the dash. I think you only have to pull the lock cylinder out if you are replacing it or the gear drive for the rod, which can cause problems, but usually the car won't turn off when it breaks.

Post by **Cliff8928** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 1:00 am

Rex, you're right on the position of the ignition switch. It's on the column just opposite the dimmer switch.

Madmax · Post by **Madmax** » Fri Jul 13, 2007 6:38 pm

Check the batterystatus! if it read under 12V, like 11.98 something is blocking the starter to kick. if you get over 12v it runs..
I got a 90 beretta 3100 and a problem was and i thought it was the battery and changed it. but suddenly after a hour drive and I parked outside the house and when i tryed to start the car, nothing.. power and everything... no kick.
got my Caprice and started it .
The we were out with the other car and when we come back 1 hour later it started. but with some restart it did not.
got my volt reader and when it when under 11.99 nothing, over 12v ok---
the alternator seems to work! and gives 14,45 V!!!
My problem is not solved yet.
Is there anyone out there that has a clue?

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