Back to Back Datalogs of 3100 and 3400 on OBD 1.5

[3X00-Modified]

but as long as your getting no spark retard in a full 1/4 mile pass you generally are rich enough or close enough to it where you will not pick up much power from lowering the A/F ratio.

This would only apply if you were running the max spark that your engine could handle, and these tables in these ECM's are FAR from that. So saying that running at 13.5 vs 12.8 wont gain you any power just because you didn't have KR at 13.5 is not true.

I ran mine as lean as 13.7 when I had a messed up calculation from my wide band and even with 27* advance that never showed any KR... needless to say I gained 4 tenths after getting the fuel down around 12.8 constant.

Issac, I was saying your leaner than you should be at WOT... Low O2 numbers mean lean. Granted I'm using a comparison that may not be the best, but I was simply saying when my a/f is around 12.5-12.8 I will get close to 933 on my narrow band sensor... with your levels I would say its running a little lean. I can feel the difference between 12.8 and 13.1, so I wouldn't say that's an acceptable range, its more like 12.5-12.8 on these engines. Granted I haven't dyno proven that yet but I can feel the acceleration difference when its in the 13's for a/f

Also wanted to show you this.

[IsaacHayes]

Ouch, 92% duty cycle!! My poor injectors!! LOL

The more I think about it, it may indeed be lack of fuel that is causing the lack of "punch". Somewhere in between perfect and a hesitation ya know? I do plan someday on going to OBDI and tuning, but that may have to come sooner...
I wonder if the new style FPR would be enough to keep the duty cycle safe? I still would need to tune of course. The car feels like it drops off at the upper RPMs instead of feeling like it's gaining more and more. So it probably is lack of fuel. Plus it pulls to the left like crazy since the trans mount is sagging so bad, which probably creates a lack of bite and punch... Hopefully I can make it to the dealer before 5:30.. I doubt I can even walk to my car and get out of the lot before then though.

EDIT: I do get a bit of a hesitation on tip in... I just tried to spin the tires in the garage. Hesitates for a sec then goes. Defiantly need tuning for the larger TB, need more AE. That would explain the lack of wheel spin on take off, but then it goes quickly. Makes me want to throw on a 56mm to get that snappyness back, but I don't want to give up the 65 and all it's nice ports LOL. Damn I need more time to put together a tuning solution.

Question, how "well" could I tune the engine without a WB? I'd have to find someone to cut a hole in my DP and weld in a WB unless they make ones that fit the stock bung...

[3X00-Modified]

You can tune it part throttle well, but you will still have trouble dialing in the AE squirt of fuel and anything WOT you do... You can get close yes and go by seat of the pants feel, but it may still be just a little off.

I did it for a while and did ok, it was just the radical cam change that made me go for the wideband.

[IsaacHayes]

My butt dyno is pretty sensitive... LOL I'm serious. The AE squirt I think I could do. Pretty easy to tell that. WOT might be a bit harder but I have a pretty good memory and feel.
You think without a WB I could tune it to run better than it does now? It doesn't have to bee 99.8% dead on, but I'd like it about as close as a stock tune is to a stock motor...

[wicked-irocz]

If your part throttle is correct (128/128) then your full throttle will be close except in upper rpm ranges (4000+) where the cells are not really going to play well with the change in RPM of max power. I was saying your probably lean due to your BLMs under part throttle since that is a good indication of how much fuel the motor needs. Your valve springs could also be hurting your higher RPM.

[IsaacHayes]

I thought about the springs, but last spring the motor ran soooo strong up top.. It pulled harder and harder through the shift point then when it shifted the car jumped forward more. It would be weird if they all just got weak suddenly. Since the 65mm TB and exhaust it seems the top end has suffered while the low end gained. The mid range is really powerful to. But much past 4 grand and it suffers. Which is probably where it's running lean. I haven't had time personally to go through my logs yet... LOL Just threw them out there since I had them.

EDIT: last night I had time to swap back to my modded air box over the WAI. Just went to lunch and grabbed the swedge bolt for the trans mount bracket from the dealer (now has a bolt head instead of hex cap style). Anyway holy cow the motor is snappy and responsive. Even on the highway it flies. It took the whole trip and back sitting in traffic to get up to 1/4 temp on the dash. The WAI it would have been past that at the first stop light. I don't care what ANYONE says, WAI's SUCK! It's even hotter and muggier than yesterday yet the car feels great. I still want to tune, so I'm still going ahead with that. More power, more more more! I just hope when I build the CAI it feels like the modded air box only better. I know temps have to do with it. Hell keeping the IAT's under 100 instead of 130 has to. I actually don't like the sound of an open element air filter. Sounds too noisy and not refined. The car sounds sexy now with the modded air box. Can hear the motor breath but no WAAAAAAH sound. Just the exhaust burble.

/end edit. lol

[woody90gtz]

Ok, here's my first attempt at data logging the "SS". Take a look and tell me what you think. I havent hooked the wideband up to the ECM to log it yet. This was just a quick run from my driveway to a few miles out of town. Tiffany's POS laptop battery dies quicker than Michael Jackson!

http://ericwood.net/files/3400ss5spd.csv

[IsaacHayes]

Get an auto power adapter. I got one for my IBM on ebay for $7 WITH shipping